ABS cutting engine power.. able to tune out?

Wile E. Coyote

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1996 Tbird LX, SVO blown 4.6 // 1990 Tbird SC Drift missile, OHV 5.0
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Something I've noticed while driving the gold car (1996 Tbird LX, SVO supercharged) around is if I cut a corner sharp, the ABS light turns on and, in turn, cuts ignition. When the light goes out, ignition comes back but it takes a second to clear out the excess fuel it dumped.


Is there a way I can tune this out, or is there an underlying problem?
 
There is no connection between ABS and the EEC, nor should the ABS be operating unless you’re braking, nor is the light supposed to illuminate when it is operating.

The ABS light indicates a fault, and if you have ignition cutting out in addition to its illuminating while cornering hard I’d check for a loose ground somewhere.
 
There is no connection between ABS and the EEC, nor should the ABS be operating unless you’re braking, nor is the light supposed to illuminate when it is operating.

The ABS light indicates a fault, and if you have ignition cutting out in addition to its illuminating while cornering hard I’d check for a loose ground somewhere.
Since you know the circuits in these cars, is there a specific place you would look? Like the ground junctions in the kick panels or somewhere in the engine bay?
 
Since you know the circuits in these cars, is there a specific place you would look? Like the ground junctions in the kick panels or somewhere in the engine bay?

I’d have to look in my EVTM later but I’d actually be looking at the grounds around the core support since ignition ABS and others ground there, where the kick panel ground is mostly just EEC
 
Using any Mark 8 parts? "
Yes, for later models of the Lincoln Mark VIII, the ABS system was integrated with the engine's electronic torque management, which is part of the traction control system.

While basic ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) primarily works by rapidly modulating brake pressure to prevent wheel lock-up, more advanced systems, especially when combined with traction control, can also influence engine output to prevent wheel spin during acceleration or under braking.

Specifically, a forum post indicates that "On 1997-1998 the ABS action is integrated with electronic engine torque management for Traction Control." This suggests that if the ABS detected wheel slip during braking, and the vehicle also had traction control, the engine's throttle (or torque output) could be affected to help maintain control."
 
Correct, the 97/98 Marks had a much more advanced version of traction control which linked the PCM to the ABS computer to modulate the brakes in conjunction with a dramatic reduction in timing to control wheelspin. It is operable at all vehicle speeds. It is always enabled by default upon startup, though it can be disabled by the driver via the information center or in a tune.

The traction assist found on the MN12 is an ABS-computer-aware only modulation of the rear brakes when wheelspin is detected, and is only marginally effective up to about 30 MPH.
 
Think I found the issue.
IMG_20250613_135627912.jpgIMG_20250613_135642611_HDR.jpg
I started noticing it happens more when I'm accelerating while turning. Like merging onto a busy road from a side street (kinda sucky time to have a car cut out on you).

Kept shaking the harness while it was running, front, back, interior, ground, power, even shook the EEC while it was running because I needed to find something. Started checking the alternator wiring. And there that was.


I guess I'm cutting the hood support a bit.
 
Think I found the issue.
View attachment 12543View attachment 12544
I started noticing it happens more when I'm accelerating while turning. Like merging onto a busy road from a side street (kinda sucky time to have a car cut out on you).

Kept shaking the harness while it was running, front, back, interior, ground, power, even shook the EEC while it was running because I needed to find something. Started checking the alternator wiring. And there that was.


I guess I'm cutting the hood support a bit.

Yeah that’ll cause some issues! I presume that’s because the SVO mounts the alt slightly higher? You can actually remove that red standoff entirely and mount the cable to the back stud on the alternator. That’s actually how it is on 94-95s
 
Yeah that’ll cause some issues! I presume that’s because the SVO mounts the alt slightly higher? You can actually remove that red standoff entirely and mount the cable to the back stud on the alternator. That’s actually how it is on 94-95s
Did this today. We will see what happens.
 
Check your drivers engine mount; If its bad, the engine rises up when you accelerate. On a 4.6, it hooks the throttle blade, and cranks it wide open. I have chains across mine now, lol.
 
Check your drivers engine mount; If its bad, the engine rises up when you accelerate. On a 4.6, it hooks the throttle blade, and cranks it wide open. I have chains across mine now, lol.
Oh it's bad. But with the LTs I barely have the access to look at them, let alone change them or strap a chain.


I want to drop the subframe/engine and fix a bunch of leaks, a long with the mounts, but in time I guess. I haven't even touched the red car in like 2 months cause of BS at work taking time.
 
If there's any chance of it hooking the throttle blade, it's a critical problem. Especially with a blower. I did a sideways burnout into traffic, just moving up in a line of traffic at a stop sign. I broke 3 wheels, bent the suspension, but missed all the cars, and did a donut around a school bus full of kids. I can't recommend that experience.
 
Oh it's bad. But with the LTs I barely have the access to look at them, let alone change them or strap a chain.


I want to drop the subframe/engine and fix a bunch of leaks, a long with the mounts, but in time I guess. I haven't even touched the red car in like 2 months cause of BS at work taking time.

This is what I use

IMG_6879.jpeg
 
I bought a setup like that from Rod,the only difference being the hooks welded closed.
 
I bought a setup like that from Rod,the only difference being the hooks welded closed.

I got the idea from Rod and tried finding those enclosed ends but you can get this at any hardware store and in reality their rated strength far exceeds the torque any NA 4.6 could dream of making. I'e been running this for years without any sign of the ends opening up and its definitely done its job as the EGR valve (when I had it) would dent the hood bracing until I installed it. The shifter also shook less( which I kind of miss, ngl lol)
 

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