Aftetmarket front strut rod bushings frame side torque

3_97_Sports

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My frame side strut rod bushing on one side needs to be replaced after collapsing in less than 10,000 km.
What torque spec do you use?
Particularly @supergordo , as you would see them in the future and see if the sleeve has collapsed from too tight.
Stock torque is too tight, given the flimsy sleeves compared to stock.
 
My frame side strut rod bushing on one side needs to be replaced after collapsing in less than 10,000 km.
What torque spec do you use?
Particularly @supergordo , as you would see them in the future and see if the sleeve has collapsed from too tight.
Stock torque is too tight, given the flimsy sleeves compared to stock.
You may have the defective sleeves, the solid ones without the slit on it are the right ones.
 
I am pretty sure they are split sleeves on there that are ruined, I have a replacement set with no split sleeves, so you would use whatever stock torque is in the book for them?
Aren't moog etc. split sleeves, and there was only one type with the solid sleeves?
I will pull them out and see the brand.
 
I’m not too good when it comes to torque specs but I’m sure someone else will help.
 
Ultra-power k8659 'stabilizer bar' bushing kit it is called.
Solid sleeves, and the washers seem beefier than the moog or mevotech I have seen/used.
Next question, which one is the forward bushing?

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Do most of you guys just snug them up and let the alignment guys torque them to what their book spec would be?
Or would you instruct them to do them looser as they are relative pieces of shit compared to stock?
🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️
 
I would think the solid sleeve would be plenty strong to torque to spec. Much better than the other aftermarket split sleeve and at least as strong as the stock two piece configuration. I always torque everything before going in for an alignment. Don't assume the alignment tech is going to care more about your car. What if he doesn't have to make any adjustments? From my experience there is a good chance the alignment tech is going to set everything to book spec anyway. I've found that suggesting other than factory settings is usually ignored.
 
The og one has a crushable sleeve, that I had to cut off.
 
That's the biggest problem with the aftermarket frame bushings, you can't torque to factory specs. I had the blue thermoplastic ones on my car for years and never had a problem with them but I was careful when tightening them up. They were still fine when I redid my car a couple years ago and put the poly ones in.
 

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