Alternator issues

[White Lincoln]

One of the members here mentioned that owning a Cougar / T-Bird is like playing wackaball, I can relate.

The volt meter started doing the metronome thing, then the inside lights are dancing to the volt meter and more is coming. I checked voltages at the battery;
1. Key off - 12.5 volts
2. Engine running, high idle - 15 volts
3. Engine running 750 rpm - 15 volts

My thought is the regulator is bad since the alternator is putting out 15 volts.

Alternator - $100
Regulator - $20

Suggestions? Comments? The alternator does not have that many miles on it.

What's weird is I hear a ticking when I shut off the engine and this has been going on for some time. I related it to metal cooling down after the engine gets hot. But it was doing it today so I pulled the negative terminal and the ticking stopped. The sound was coming from the upper center of the engine. My first thought is the injector is stuck on due to unregulated voltage.

 

[Kenz]

Last week mine randomly flashed the battery light and then the airbag light. All I can guess is a voltage fluctuation caused it to happen.
I replaced the alternator 7 years ago and the battery checks out.
If it happens again, I'm going to try replacing the voltage regulator. Easy job on the alternator for these cars. I think all the Ford 3G alts use the same one

 

[White Lincoln]

If it happens again, I'm going to try replacing the voltage regulator. Easy job on the alternator for these cars. I think all the Ford 3G alts use the same one

I did a quick search before my post and the cost of the voltage regulator was $20. I actually went on line to AutoZone, NAPA and RockAuto and the lowest one at RockAuto was $60. WTF????

Did some more research, "that jungle sight" had them from $9 up to nose bleed level. Other places, like Ford car parts web sites and the likes are all way more than I want to pay.

I saw a Mallery voltage regulatory that can be used instead of the one that mounts to the altenator. It was in excess of $100.

Looking at new altenators.

 

[Kenz]

Amazon no name electrical parts are always a risk. To be fair though I have so far bought 3 alternators on jungle site that were not OEM brands, and they never gave me issues.
I kept the old alternator from my Cougar. Maybe I'll try swapping the VR over . It worked fine besides what I expect was a bearing squeak.

 

[White Lincoln]

Amazon no name electrical parts are always a risk. To be fair though I have so far bought 3 alternators on jungle site that were not OEM brands, and they never gave me issues.
I kept the old alternator from my Cougar. Maybe I'll try swapping the VR over . It worked fine besides what I expect was a bearing squeak.

Agreed. If you have a spare, us it! I was thinking of going to the j-yard.... but the cost of gas, etc... but then again, I need a replacement regulator or altenator before I seriously over voltage something.

The regulator at Jungle land will be here in two days. I went ahead and ordered it.

 

[Green T]

I remember reading on the other site a long time ago that there was a particular replacement alternator that was slightly smaller in size and I wish I knew which one it was, I would order one just to have as backup.

 

[Grog6]

I've used two of the "victory lane "alternator kits, i bought from amazon, after the brand was recommended by a neighbor.
I've put thousands of miles on them, and their starter rebuild kits. I think you can buy them from napa too.

 

[White Lincoln]

I've used two of the "victory lane "alternator kits, i bought from amazon, after the brand was recommended by a neighbor.
I've put thousands of miles on them, and their starter rebuild kits. I think you can buy them from napa too.

Victory Lap FDA-04 Alternator Repair Kit​

This is the kit that came up for my 94 Cougar 3.8. I was actually looking for a rebuild kit, but didn't word the search right and never saw this. Thanks Grog for sharing. Remember "sharing is caring".... (had a co-worker that used to say that when he wanted something for free)

As mentioned, the motor part of my altenator is fine, no noises and its putting out 15 volts. The regulator comes tomorrow. More to come!



"I just come here for the pictures"

 

[Grog6]

Make sure the copper rings where the brushes ride are smooth; I usually hit them with fine emery cloth, to give the new brushes a clean place to ride.

 

[White Lincoln]

Make sure the copper rings where the brushes ride are smooth; I usually hit them with fine emery cloth, to give the new brushes a clean place to ride.

Thanks Grog... reminds me of all those "restoration guys"... "sand down the contact points of the distributor...."

Anyway, my part is being delayed another day. I wrote Amazon a nasty graham. I know its just a computer I am typing too, so I wrote "send this to upper managmenet". Consistantly, they say 2 days and I get it in 3 to 4. God forbid I get it in 5 and get a full refund. I don't recall, in the past that is, when they said 2 days, that the item was rarely late.

I think this is a sign that one of the seals has been broken that let trump out... (Supernatural, season 4)

I can't even get a decent burger for less than $7 now.... The world is going to hell.

 

[Grog6]

Thank the gods;I'll never have to dink with another set of points. Even my 1980 bike has electronic ignition.
On my 63 tbird, if you left the key on, not only would it run the battery down, but also weld the points together. :rolleyes

 

[White Lincoln]

Thank the gods;I'll never have to dink with another set of points. Even my 1980 bike has electronic ignition.
On my 63 tbird, if you left the key on, not only would it run the battery down, but also weld the points together. :rolleyes

That I can relate too.

 

[White Lincoln]

Anyone know if there is any damage sustained to electrical components in the car by running the car at 15 volts and no regulation?

 

[Kenz]

Car electronics are all designed to take higher voltage without damage. I don't recall the exact number, but electrical engineers have a voltage range that they need to design systems to withstand.It is surprisingly high, definitely north of 15

 

[Grog6]

16 is where it becomes a problem, most aftermarket stereo equipment will turn off at 16. 14.7V is at the high end of battery charging; check your battery connections, and its water level.

 

[Kenz]

Aftermarket products like stereo components don't apply.... "Automotive systems have to operate from 9-16 volts, and withstand a 24 volt jump start test for 5 minutes. Some products are used in both 12 and 24 volt systems and the range on those is bigger" from an EE in automotive field since the 90s(not me! lol).

 

[White Lincoln]

I was mainly wondering about the injectors if they can take a hit when the voltage is higher than regulated. Thanks for the feedback on that question.

Anyway, moving on here...

I installed the new regulator (and sanded the copper contacts on the rotor) and the voltage at high idle is 14.8-14.9. At 750 rpm, it is 14.6 and steady. The high idle is jumping back and forth between 14.8 - 14.9, but at idle, it is a steady voltage.

The voltmeter in the dash is steady and the interior lights are no longer flickering.

 

[White Lincoln]

Well, i'll be... the dang Voltmeter started bouncing back and forth as I pulled out of McD's (I was cutting through their parking lot) came to a stop at a red light and voltmeter stopped bouncing and was stable. The lights flickered a bit when the alternator was dancing, but I had to look hard to see them flickering. I took off when the light turned green and the meter behavied. Even when I pulled in the garage and sat there idling, the meter never moved.

My car is possessed.