Audio system rewiring

[Zep5.0]

I couldn't find this in any other threads, so I thought I'd ask some questions here and hopefully put together a nice spot to use as a resource moving Forward. I'm getting close to putting wiring back in the Cougar and want to ensure the audio is up to the task.

What, if any wires to speakers should I update while the wiring harness is out of the car? Should I add new to door and sail panel speakers? What gauge, 14 or 16?

I have been tossing around the idea of leaving the stock speaker wire in the loom, but adding a Second AMP for the 4 stock speaker locations. It's then just running wire to ask 4 locations from the trunk.

Anyone running a pair of tweeters, on top of the 4?

I plan on a 12" sub, but of course that will be easy with battery relocated to the trunk.

 

[jco1385]

I plan to leave the stock wiring in the loom and add another set that goes to the trunk area. This way if I decide to run only a headunit I could use the factory wiring. If I decide to run an amp, I would use the wires I added. I've got a large spool of 12ga speaker wire that I'll use.

 

[Zep5.0]

I found a chart online that's based on ohms and distance of run. Hoping to find one size that can do it all.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I think I went with 14 wire on mine. The runs are not that far in a car. Stock wire is like 18 gauge.

See my system install in this thread: https://forum.birdcats.com/threads/looking-for-car-audio-suggestions-best-of-2020.174/

 

[jco1385]

I just went and looked. I've actually got 16ga wire for this. I think that's plenty for anything I'll ever put in the car. If you want to measure your lengths, I could send you enough to do whatever you're trying to do for pretty cheap.

This is the wire I've got:
https://scpcat5e.com/16-2sp-26-wt-1000-speaker-bulk-cables

Factory wiring is 20ga.

 

[Grog6]

I did completely separate wires to the trunk, 12awg.Two large battery cables, thru seals in the pass floorboard, to the starter and ground. 2x 3 way rca cables from the deck location. A separate wire for amp turn on is good. I run a 12v relay, mounted to the plywood base for the amp, to buffer the amp turn on signal. I run a fan on the amplifier, to keep it running in the summer. The fan runs off the relay. I left the stock wiring alone; adding the black and gray adapters to the deck will let you plug it straight in if you want.

 

[XR7-4.6]

I’d only run new wiring if you’re running an aftermarket amp, with headunit only though the stock wires are perfectly adequate and convenient….

… unless your car is a premium sound/JBL car. The wiring from the stock headunit to the factory amp(or requisite bypass jumper with an aftermarket HU) is puny - think internal wires in a USB cable puny - so if you car came with the factory upgrade systems I would recommend going ahead and running wires because it really will be an upgrade. Or find a standard low end radio dash harness to swap in so you can connect the full size wires to the main body harness going to the speakers.

 

[Zep5.0]

It wasn't premium sound. I was generally happy with a head unit and sub back in the day with slightly better ford speakers that I got for free. Just don't want to take the car apart again.

I think I'll run from the trunk just to have the ability to do as I wish in the future without removing panels. 34 year old plastic didn't like moving the first time it came out

 

[Grog6]

The hardest part of the whole damn thing was not breaking clips on the dash, and running the 12awg wires thru the little tubes to the doors. The stock factory wiring was fine for 6 ohm speakers these came with, but most speakers are 2 ohm now. The 18awg factory wiring is too small now. Crutchfield has some good speakers that fit; but you'll never get bass out of them. a 12" sub running ~500W, and ~50 rms to the 6x8's, it will sound really good.