Changing SC Plugs

GRWeldon

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So I have read every thread I could find that shows/tells how to change SC spark plugs. Under the majority opinion that I have read, the instructions are to take the top intercooler tube/blower top off, as this somehow makes it easier. I did this and found that it didn't help at all to get the passenger side plugs out. It might have made it easier ty being able to shine light from that direction but in the end it didn't do a thing for me. In any case, I got the plugs out. They look very good to me, however, when I went to grab the replacement plugs (Bosch R6 Iridium), this is what I found...

Notice how it appears that the tapered seat is at the same place on the plug, but there are many less threads on the one I pulled out (Autolite 764PP) I really don't want to put a hole in a piston so I'm double-checking with y'all. It's my supposition that the Bosch plug is threaded all the way up so it can possibly be used in aluminum head, that require more threads. I'm assuming that there is a recess in the SC heads between the seat and the threaded portion of the plug and the Bosch plug will just thread in until the seat bottoms out and the protrusion in to the combustion chamber will be correct.

Like I said, I'm just double-checking with y'all...Many brains are better than my feeble one!
 

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I've never really removed much to do SC plugs mostly because I hate taking the stock IC tubing off. I think I usually do the driver's side from the bottom.

I see both style plugs available even from Autolite. I'm guessing the top of the plug well isn't threaded allowing the use of either type of plug. It has been a long time since I looked that closely at one of these though.
 
They are easier from the bottom.

Plugs will be fine.
 
I’ve never figured how it could be easier from the bottom. Maybe my hands are just too big to fit, but that always seemed way harder to me. The way I do the plugs is I remove the upper intercooler tube, then the intercooler itself, then unbolt the lower intercooler tube from the return plenum, take the belt off, disconnect the alternator wiring, and unbolt the entire driver’s side accessory bracket with the power steering pump, alternator, and lower intercooler tube attached, then with the intercooler removed you can slide that whole thing forward into the area the intercooler used to occupy without disconnecting the power steering lines, and that leaves you full access to the plugs from the top. For the passenger side, remove the intake tube and throttle body, then unbolt the AC compressor and swing it out of the way, and you now have all the room in the world on that side too!
 
I’ve never figured how it could be easier from the bottom. Maybe my hands are just too big to fit...(sic)
Well, I did the passenger side mostly from the top. With the amount of aggravation and the back of my right hand now all torn up, I believe the way you mentioned in your post would be MUCH less aggravation and swearing. I think time-wise it would be a wash.

It took me 3 1/2 hours to do just the driver's side, all from the top, except for tightening the front. I installed it from the top but couldn't get good leverage with all the brackets, cables and hoses in the way.

I've never had real issues with LXs but Ford did some sketchy shit to cram the supercharged engine in to the engine bay.

If it were an automatic tranny, I'd sell it!

I'm done for the day, only so much stooping and bending can this old, injured body take. I have removed the AC from the passenger side, system wasn't charged anyway. About to remove the supercharger belt tensioner bracket assy tomorrow. I've had this car for 21 years and until today, I hadn't realized it had a third belt to drive the AC. It was in horrible condition! Will be replacing 2 of the 3.

Update tomorrow on the progress. Thanks for all the excellent replies!
 
They are easier from the bottom.

Plugs will be fine.
Unless the exhaust manifold on the passenger side were removed, I don't possibly see ANY way to get them out from the bottom. I could possibly see doing the driver's side from the bottom but I think #6 would be easier from the top. It was the easiest of the driver's side, which is all I've done yet. If they were all that easy, it wouldn't be a bad job.
 
I've done them from the bottom without taking anything off. It's not a ton of fun. But they are not the worst thing I've worked on.
 
It's a two hour job at most. I might have done the drivers side with a swivel socket and extensions .. it's been a LONG time since I changed plugs on a SC.
 
I was told on the SCCOA forum don't use iridium plugs they burn to hot and although it's a pain to do you can get to all 3 drivers side by removing the windshield washer resivor. So I pulled mine off and left it off (it had a hole in it anyway) and with it off I can get to all 3 drivers side plugs without removing the intercooler plumbing and now that I got rid of that monster teves unit it's actually the passenger side that's the hard side to do. So yet yet another positive for the teves delete. I could write a book on how bad I hated that thing. But I'd imagine if you pulled the cowling off you might be able to get to the rear plug(never tried and I know it's bridle)
 
I just pulled off the tensioner bracket on the passenger side and removed the AC compressor and hose. I can actually SEE all 3 plugs! Clearance looks tight for 2 and 3 but we will have to see. It is still 90 degrees here as the sun goes down and I just didn't have the energy to start removing the plugs. Maybe tomorrow...
 

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...although it's a pain to do you can get to all 3 drivers side by removing the windshield washer resivor. So I pulled mine off and left it off (it had a hole in it anyway) and with it off I can get to all 3 drivers side plugs without removing the intercooler plumbing...
I don't know what year SC you have/had but on my 94, removing the windshield washer tank gets you nothing.
 
Mines a 90. My washer tank sits right behind the battery not sure where they are on the 94/95
 
It still in the car in this Pic but you can see how it lines up pretty much at the rear of the power steering pump.
 

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It still in the car in this Pic but you can see how it lines up pretty much at the rear of the power steering pump.
Yeah, I see where that could be a problem. The tank is far closer to the front on a 94/95. Keep in mind that the upper intercooler tube is removed in the pic.
 

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...and I thought my basic V6 was a PITA to change the plugs. I can stop whining now...
 
You can get to all the plugs on both sides from underneath the car coming from the back side of the subframe. It's not the most fun thing you will ever do. But you don't have to remove anything.
 
You can get to all the plugs on both sides from underneath the car coming from the back side of the subframe. It's not the most fun thing you will ever do. But you don't have to remove anything.
Yes, definitely from the rear of the engine. I don't think you could do anything from the front.

The washer reservoir on the 94/95 was moved up by the headlights. There is a coolant reservoir and a fuse/relay box where the wiper reservoir used to be on the 89-93 cars.
 
You can get to all the plugs on both sides from underneath the car coming from the back side of the subframe. It's not the most fun thing you will ever do. But you don't have to remove anything.
Supergordo, again, there must be significant differences between the 94/95 model SC and all earlier models. On a 94/95 you simply can't get your hand in to reach the plugs on the passenger side from the bottom, let alone tools. I had to tighten the rear plug on the driver's side from below, couldn't seem to do it even though I removed it from the top.
 
You should be able to get to the driver rear plug by reaching over the brake master cylinder and reaching down between it and the valve cover
 
That's cause you are "Kevin" and Kevin can do anything with ease...
I wish, there is many jobs I cannot do on these cars. Changing a rack and pinion us one of them. I’m not sure about spark plugs though on the SC. Driver side on mine is easy, I got conventional brakes now. Passenger side looks difficult, maybe they can be done from the bottom not sure. Here’s a video changing them from the top.
 
On the passenger side of my 90 (not sure if 94/95's differ) pull the air inlet tube off and it's a tight fit but I can get to the from the top. I tried from underneath but the starter is in the way.
But also I have small hands for 6ft tall... I'm thr burger King guy from the old commercial "I would but you see I've got these small hands"
 
Changing the plugs while a pain isn't that bad, the last time I did mine I did it form underneath on the drivers side and up top on passenger side, removed intake tube and MAF, was done in 45 mins so the guys saying 2 hrs max are being generous. Ford's book time of 8hrs was/is absurd.
 
I know I'm way late to this thread, but for 30 years I've been changing the driver's side plugs from underneath and the passenger side from the top by removing the intake tube. Before headers, I'm pretty sure I could do the passenger side from underneath.
 

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