Chingon's Engine Build

Grog6 said:
I use aem. the problem you're having is no ground.
since you didn't hook it up, it's using the odb2 ports ground, which is for digital signals, and sux balls. You need a ground thats referenced to the signal you want, the ground at the aem gage, and it needs to be run along with the signal all the way to the xcal2's pins.
Note there is a ground, use it.
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IMG_0749.png

The link you posted sent me here.

Tomorrow I’m going to get back in there and wire it up again. So I should ground the x4 to the aem ground?? I’ll post some pictures tomorrow before I put it back together.
 
lol, that was a link to the pinout of the xcal2 analog input, iirc it's here in the article.
 
Is that a tree in your garage? Can't tell from the video and the Thunderbird isn't here at the moment, but I think you can cut away some of that underhood bracing to clear the throttle body elbow. Sounds good!
 
Grog6 said:
lol, that was a link to the pinout of the xcal2 analog input, iirc it's here in the article.
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I got it wired up but it still reads ONLY 13.5 at any rpm I give it, even tho the actual gauge gives me the actual AFR. I’m contacting sct to see if they can help me out. Thank you I appreciate it tho.

KevinVarnes said:
Is that a tree in your garage? Can't tell from the video and the Thunderbird isn't here at the moment, but I think you can cut away some of that underhood bracing to clear the throttle body elbow. Sounds good!
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Nahh it’s a support bar for the car cover, I did cut a lot of the frame already you can see in the video what’s left. And thank you it does sound pretty cool with the turbo mufflers. Might swap em out later for some magnaflows done the road.
 
You using the livelink software for datalogging? What analog equation are you using?
 
XR7-4.6 said:
You using the livelink software for datalogging? What analog equation are you using?
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IMG_0756.jpeg


This one, how are you data logging??

I was thinking maybe my ground isn’t that good but it literally hooked up to the old cigarette lighter ground.
 
I use SCT livelink with a Zeitronix ZT3 wideband. The equation looks about right(it’s been almost two years since I’ve datalogged with the wideband though.


Ideally you want to use the same ground the PCM uses to avoid ground offsets it’s right under the passenger kick panel secured to the chassis with a green bolt
 
XR7-4.6 said:
I use SCT livelink with a Zeitronix ZT3 wideband. The equation looks about right(it’s been almost two years since I’ve datalogged with the wideband though.


Ideally you want to use the same ground the PCM uses to avoid ground offsets it’s right under the passenger kick panel secured to the chassis with a green bolt
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Ohh makes sense, I’ll have to ground them all there instead then.

As of right now my tuning consists of watching the the ad counts on the SCT and watching the AFR gauge, remembering what AFR what at what AD count and adjust it like that. Super freaking annoying and really not practical or accurate. I’m hoping they get back to me soon because I’d like to finalize the tune soon.
 
Chingon1 said:
Ohh makes sense, I’ll have to ground them all there instead then.

As of right now my tuning consists of watching the the ad counts on the SCT and watching the AFR gauge, remembering what AFR what at what AD count and adjust it like that. Super freaking annoying and really not practical or accurate. I’m hoping they get back to me soon because I’d like to finalize the tune soon.
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Both ways can work, although doing meaningful tuning with the gauge + software a gauge that reads out in Lamdba is much much easier than one that reads out AFR. Running the wideband through the datalogging software is easier and it’s the most useful/essential when making drastic changes with a unique combination you can’t just broad stroke with value files and fine tune away. I got my MAF transfer very dialed in a few years ago using the Livelink Gen II software (which is autofills cells like an excel spreadsheet to get the average AD counts…(I’ve probably forgotten how to use it at this point so don’t ask for specific pointers lol).

The gauge is useful for transients, like if I see a rich or lean spikes when I punch the throttle I can mess with manifold volume to see if that changes for the better on the (relative)fly. But I’ve also used it for MAF transfer with my Xcal dangling on the mirror with AD counts and load displayed. For as dialed as I got it using software only there’s sometimes a spot or two in the table that isn’t quite there, I just need to make the mental note of the AFR and convert it to Lambda when I go make changes on the laptop(did I mention I should have bought a lambda gauge? lol)
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Both ways can work, although doing meaningful tuning with the gauge + software a gauge that reads out in Lamdba is much much easier than one that reads out AFR. Running the wideband through the datalogging software is easier and it’s the most useful/essential when making drastic changes with a unique combination you can’t just broad stroke with value files and fine tune away. I got my MAF transfer very dialed in a few years ago using the Livelink Gen II software (which is autofills cells like an excel spreadsheet to get the average AD counts…(I’ve probably forgotten how to use it at this point so don’t ask for specific pointers lol).

The gauge is useful for transients, like if I see a rich or lean spikes when I punch the throttle I can mess with manifold volume to see if that changes for the better on the (relative)fly. But I’ve also used it for MAF transfer with my Xcal dangling on the mirror with AD counts and load displayed. For as dialed as I got it using software only there’s sometimes a spot or two in the table that isn’t quite there, I just need to make the mental note of the AFR and convert it to Lambda when I go make changes on the laptop(did I mention I should have bought a lambda gauge? lol)
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So you TOTALLY understand my frustration haha, it’s been a real challenge to get the AFR to stoich this whole time. Thankfully the preloaded parameters got me somewhere in the realm I needed to be. As of right now, anything below 4-5k is a tad lean around 1.05 to 1.1 lamda. Runs a lot better tho for sure.

What do you mean? Your fancy gauge doesn’t do lamda?? Color me surprised, the AEM gauge allows me to display whatever I want. It’s been on lamda from the jump. I JUST REALLY WISH I COULD DATA LOG THIS BITCH TO MAKE IT ALOT MORE ACCURATE INSTEAD OF SORTA GUESSING phuckin beech
 
Mines the base gauge for the ZT-3 kit, there’s an upgrade one that does both and I think there might have been a base gauge that did lambda only(I’m kind of tempted to take mine apart to see if there’s an internal switch), I was far more interested in the datalogging aspect of the kit when I got it so I wasn’t too particular about the gauge itself.

If you don’t do this already, datalog from 3rd gear only, just like a dyno would. Gets you the longest pulls with the most accurate load on the engine.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Mines the base gauge for the ZT-3 kit, there’s an upgrade one that does both and I think there might have been a base gauge that did lambda only(I’m kind of tempted to take mine apart to see if there’s an internal switch), I was far more interested in the datalogging aspect of the kit when I got it so I wasn’t too particular about the gauge itself.

If you don’t do this already, datalog from 3rd gear only, just like a dyno would. Gets you the longest pulls with the most accurate load on the engine.
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Thanks for the advice, the only way I’m going to do 3rd gear pulls is on the freeway at night. The book I got says it’s gotta be from as low as an RPM I can. I think the stock tuning shifts into 3 at around 25mph.
 
The best place to tune is the freeway, late at night. I do a run in both directions, to look for cops, then do what I need. My aem gage does lambda, and I datalog using the analog signal, thru my xcal2. Fix the grounds, and it will work.
 
Chingon1 said:
Thanks for the advice, the only way I’m going to do 3rd gear pulls is on the freeway at night. The book I got says it’s gotta be from as low as an RPM I can. I think the stock tuning shifts into 3 at around 25mph.
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I never ever tried this as I didn’t dive into wideband tuning well after I swapped to a manual but you can lock out 3rd and prevent it from downshifting from it in PRP
 
Grog6 said:
The best place to tune is the freeway, late at night. I do a run in both directions, to look for cops, then do what I need. My aem gage does lambda, and I datalog using the analog signal, thru my xcal2. Fix the grounds, and it will work.
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That’s way what I was thinking, thankfully the freeways are pretty dead by me at night so I can do a loooooong ass sweep in 3rd gear. Consider those ground… fixed!

XR7-4.6 said:
I never ever tried this as I didn’t dive into wideband tuning well after I swapped to a manual but you can lock out 3rd and prevent it from downshifting from it in PRP
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Lock out as in it won’t shift to 2nd?? I’m not to worried about that. What I was thinking is get in the freeway as slow as possible and go up in RPM slowly and just record the ad count and lamda. How are you tuning now?
 
Chingon1 said:
That’s way what I was thinking, thankfully the freeways are pretty dead by me at night so I can do a loooooong ass sweep in 3rd gear. Consider those ground… fixed!


Lock out as in it won’t shift to 2nd?? I’m not to worried about that. What I was thinking is get in the freeway as slow as possible and go up in RPM slowly and just record the ad count and lamda. How are you tuning now?
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I shift into 4th and just hold it at various rpm points for several seconds successively(say every 250rpm from 2000rpm up to redline), then go home and extrapolate the data collected to the closest AD count and correct. If I’m tuning with the gauge and Xcal I’ll mental note the WB reading and count and adjust.
 
I lock mine in 3rd. NOTE: You need to add the 127.5 mph bug fix if you're running a 4r70w. Ask An admin.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
I shift into 4th and just hold it at various rpm points for several seconds successively(say every 250rpm from 2000rpm up to redline), then go home and extrapolate the data collected to the closest AD count and correct. If I’m tuning with the gauge and Xcal I’ll mental note the WB reading and count and adjust.
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Gotcha, havnt had a chance to getter done but soon, I was planing on doing it in 3rd because it’s a 1:1 ratio??

Grog6 said:
I lock mine in 3rd. NOTE: You need to add the 127.5 mph bug fix if you're running a 4r70w. Ask An admin.
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Where do I adjust that?? Is it the speed limiter??


I found this 97 cluster at the JY, how do I go about out taking it out without breaking it?? Does the gauge bezel come out first THEN the radio portion??
IMG_0787.jpeg
 
Chingon1 said:
Gotcha, havnt had a chance to getter done but soon, I was planing on doing it in 3rd because it’s a 1:1 ratio??
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Yes.

Chingon1 said:
I found this 97 cluster at the JY, how do I go about out taking it out without breaking it?? Does the gauge bezel come out first THEN the radio portion??
View attachment 18615
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Remove the knee panel first, remove the vent duct inside it, remove the 4 column nuts, lower the column, then remove the 5 screws securing the cluster bezel to the dash, two are above the cluster, don’t forget them, then start pulling from the bottom corner by the radio and pop each clip carefully just running your fingers around the gap going in a counterclockwise direction, the left vent will give the most resistance.

You don’t HAVE to drop the column, but I can guarantee you won’t break it if you take the extra time
 
Chingon1 said:
Gotcha, havnt had a chance to getter done but soon, I was planing on doing it in 3rd because it’s a 1:1 ratio??


Where do I adjust that?? Is it the speed limiter??

no, those are in value files. Ask Don.
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Chingon1 said:
Gotcha, havnt had a chance to getter done but soon, I was planing on doing it in 3rd because it’s a 1:1 ratio??


Where do I adjust that?? Is it the speed limiter??


I found this 97 cluster at the JY, how do I go about out taking it out without breaking it?? Does the gauge bezel come out first THEN the radio portion??
View attachment 18615
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Check to see if it's JJJJ code and / or 3.27TL on the pumpkin if you want a little extra goodies from it 😀
 
To lock it in 3rd, there is a value file you add, iirc. Add in the 127.5mph bug too. Don has that file. Otherwise, when the eec overflows at 128mph, it will upshift and downshift repetitively as fast as it can shift. This beats the vb to death, and trashes the direct clutch, and toasts the od band.
It fills everything with debris, so it's a full rebuild, new tc, everything. Mine shifted over 1000 times before I could get my foot out of it.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Yes.



Remove the knee panel first, remove the vent duct inside it, remove the 4 column nuts, lower the column, then remove the 5 screws securing the cluster bezel to the dash, two are above the cluster, don’t forget them, then start pulling from the bottom corner by the radio and pop each clip carefully just running your fingers around the gap going in a counterclockwise direction, the left vent will give the most resistance.

You don’t HAVE to drop the column, but I can guarantee you won’t break it if you take the extra time
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My original one is broken and I can totally see why you’d want to drop the column, it barely squeezes by with it all the way down. Thanks for the tips!


CDsDontBurn said:
Check to see if it's JJJJ code and / or 3.27TL on the pumpkin if you want a little extra goodies from it 😀
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I have the same diff in my bird, but since the JY will be half off this weekend I’m tempted to grab it and rebuild.
Grog6 said:
To lock it in 3rd, there is a value file you add, iirc. Add in the 127.5mph bug too. Don has that file. Otherwise, when the eec overflows at 128mph, it will upshift and downshift repetitively as fast as it can shift. This beats the vb to death, and trashes the direct clutch, and toasts the od band.
It fills everything with debris, so it's a full rebuild, new tc, everything. Mine shifted over 1000 times before I could get my foot out of it.
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Oh no way I didn’t know that. The thing is with my stock driveshaft I’m kinda scared to go over 105 I’ve heard it really doesn’t like spinning that fast.
 
Call PST and see if they'll honor the tccoa group purchase price; I doubt it, but I'd ask. You need to give the center to center u-joint langth, and flange types. It was $450 for a 3.5" aluminum ds for a 96 cougar. I've bought 3 of those.

Precision Shaft Technologies - The Leader in Performance Driveshafts

PST manufactures the strongest, fastest, and most dependable high-performance custom driveshafts in the world. Trusted by top racers around the world.
pstds.com pstds.com
 
Grog6 said:
Call PST and see if they'll honor the tccoa group purchase price; I doubt it, but I'd ask. You need to give the center to center u-joint langth, and flange types. It was $450 for a 3.5" aluminum ds for a 96 cougar. I've bought 3 of those.

Precision Shaft Technologies - The Leader in Performance Driveshafts

PST manufactures the strongest, fastest, and most dependable high-performance custom driveshafts in the world. Trusted by top racers around the world.
pstds.com pstds.com
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Will do thank you!


So I hit the JY today to grab the bezel since I was free, and guess what. Some scholar broke it 🤬 they took the center console minus the cup holders.
IMG_0807.jpegIMG_0808.jpeg


If anybody is interested I can possibly grab the cup holders, it IS a little bit damaged tho. Where the armrest goes it has like a chip on it, nothing too crazy. IMG_0810.jpeg
 
They busted the console top but managed to get the console itself out without breaking the corner bits that attach to the dash????
 
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