
Anyone here running 1.6" Vogtlands that cut the front springs? I feel like the consensus was 1/2 coil was perfect for lowering the front a touch more than the back. Hoping for pictures before I go hacking these perfect springs...
Anyone here running 1.6" Vogtlands that cut the front springs? I feel like the consensus was 1/2 coil was perfect for lowering the front a touch more than the back. Hoping for pictures before I go hacking these perfect springs...
View attachment 10946
This is 1/4 coil, and knowing I've shaved 150+ lbs off the front has me wondering. I didn't really want to cut 1/2 coil and wish I went more.
You guys got me thinking now if I should cut my Vogtlands before I install them.![]()
Make sure you can deal with it being lower. I have the 1" Vogtland lowering springs. If I pull into my garage too fast the transmission mount scrapes. These cars have a long wheelbase. My Firebird is stock and it does the same thing, so 1" of drop puts you at about as much clearance as a Fbody![]()
At this point you might as well go full F-body conversion and just LS swap the Cougar.My Firebird is stock and it does the same thing, so 1" of drop puts you at about as much clearance as a Fbody![]()
It'd be maybe 1/2 coil to fix the "boat look" after I put in my 1.6" drop VogtlandsMake sure you can deal with it being lower. I have the 1" Vogtland lowering springs. If I pull into my garage too fast the transmission mount scrapes. These cars have a long wheelbase. My Firebird is stock and it does the same thing, so 1" of drop puts you at about as much clearance as a Fbody![]()
Honestly I consider it mandatory with some springs, Vogtlands in my experience in both 1” and 1.6” flavors could use a quarter to a half a coil cut out in front springs to be level with their rear springs. I wouldn’t cut out more than a full coil from the front or a half coil at the rear though.Ive put the uca through the shock towers more than once with how low my cars are, so I wouldn't cut drop springs.
If you don't want to cut, another option with Vogtlands is to install poly rear spring isolators. I put them on mine and it sits even as far as I can tell.
Gold car has two coils out of the front and a coil out of the rear. Red one has, I think, 3 coils cut out of the stock rears and front coilovers.Honestly I consider it mandatory with some springs, Vogtlands in my experience in both 1” and 1.6” flavors could use a quarter to a half a coil cut out in front springs to be level with their rear springs. I wouldn’t cut out more than a full coil from the front or a half coil at the rear though.
I thought the isolators should always be installed?If you don't want to cut, another option with Vogtlands is to install poly rear spring isolators. I put them on mine and it sits even as far as I can tell.
I thought the isolators should always be installed?
Great pic of a beautiful car!! Love the wheel choice!View attachment 10946
This is 1/4 coil, and knowing I've shaved 150+ lbs off the front has me wondering. I didn't really want to cut 1/2 coil and wish I went more.
With poly top and bottom on mark arms, I'm sitting way too high right now. But no engine or trans, driveshaft, fuel tank etc. easy enough to adjust once the car is operational.Poly cobra isolators will raise the rear, all things equal. Now aftermarket springs can vary, for me my 1” Vogtlands with poly insulators in mark VIII control arms(which without perches typically drop the rear anywhere between 1/2” -1”) was pretty much exactly how they sat with the iron arms and stock rubber insulators with those springs. Without them as I initially installed them(sorry no pics) it was full on Carolina squat hideousness.
I really don’t recommend the poly isolators unless you are doing the mark LCAs or are deliberately trying to raise the rear tbh. There’s no benefit to them over rubber.
Rattle can. Plenty good for a suspension part. Prep is most important. I do have some touch up to do after welding the nuts to the old shock body. The shock body had a very thick and bulged bottom, so there was not as much thread engaged as I'd like. I do not recommend doing this, but it's what I had.How did you go about adding yellow to the body donors? Rattle can or powder coat?
The shock body had a very thick and bulged bottom, so there was not as much thread engaged as I'd like.
I got to the nyloc in the nut or just past it. Had I got the stud past the nyloc I wouldn't have welded it. If you can heat the shock body and press it flush that should help.I pulled off my shocks yesterday and disassembled them as well. I see that the bottom of the shock bodies have a nipple and a bit of a bulge.
How many threads were you able to get in?