How much to sell my brother's '01 Grand Prix GT for that needs engine?

[FordMan77]

I'm asking here before I get blasted on other sites, lol.. All I'm looking for is an honest opinion.

Background- From what I know, a few weeks ago my brother's '01 GT collapsed a lifter or something in the valvetrain and grenaded a cylinder while on the highway. I have NOT seen it yet in person but from the description he gave on the frantic phone call it left parts of the 3800 all over the highway yet it was still running enough to get to a parking lot right off the highway. As far as I know it is not locked up. I know it has had a lifter tick for a long while now and have a suspicion that it lost a lifter and took out a piston. I've been around the GM 3800 a long time (my 00 GT has 500K+ on it, and 95 Bonne has 312K). Usually these things are bulletproof but they can have issues here and there if not addressed. I also have severe doubts as to the engine oil level at said time of issue, but that's irrelevent now.

I've personally done all the work on this car since he bought it, as he was getting divorced at the time and is terrible with money so no shop work involved as he couldn't afford it and I absolutely would NOT have my 2 nieces riding around in a deathtrap, even if it cost me my own money.

That all aside, I need to try and sell it as a whole car, as-is. I do not have the time/space to strip all the new stuff off this thing and try to part it out. Plus, the market for theses parts is getting pretty slow. It would be great for someone that can just swap engines and then have a good reliable car to drive for basically just the cost of a used 3800 + the car itself.

My gut says to ask $1,200 for it as it sits plus the spare parts for it. I cannot go below 1K with what I have in it. Am I nuts to ask this amount?? Based on some of the similar cars in this year range even with an engine swap you'd still come in at least 2K under what a running one is going for, and that doesn't include their unknown maint. history. I'm not one of those "I know what I have" guys but at the same time not looking to get hosed.

Below is an overview of the car itself from my records (I apologize for the long read, but I try to keep accurate records on all cars I work on):

~270K miles on chassis

rust in rear rockers (common issue) nothing threatening yet

Paint on hood is checked badly- needs a repaint or JY replacement

lower door cladding/GFX are junk- Sun baked the plastic

Rear strut towers are solid

Rest of the body can be buffed out to shine (I did it in 2022, the factory black paint still looked good)

No major body damage, a few small dings as to be expected.

Factory polished torque star wheels in good condition

Transmission- has typical TCC oscillating RPM's when you give it gas under a load with the converter locked. Common 4T65E issue. Could just need a new TCC switch or a reset using the battery disconnect method. Didn't get to try it.

Still works just fine otherwise and Overdrive also works

Needs a front end alignment due to new suspension install

Tires ok, could use a new pair up front soon

Brakes/rotors good all around

Parking Brake works

Passed MO state safety inspection last year with no issue

Spare Factory Black Daytona 500 Edition spoiler

Spare rust/dent free factory green decklid (was going to paint black and install Daytona spoiler on it)

Newer graphite grey cloth seats (front and rear) from an '03 GP (replaced black leather seats that were junk). Really nice condition

Factory sunroof works, just needs track cleaning/greasing

All power windows currently work (regualtors are a thing on these cars)




Mods/parts replacement history:

2006 Impala dual piston front brake calipers/rotors/hoses- (2018)- $220
NOTE: Due to this mod, the factory spare tire will NOT fit on the front wheels, must use a stock "16 wheel at minimum.

engine and trans mounts- (2018)- $50

ZZP stainless 2.5" catted downpipe- (2021)- $239

Downstream Delco 02 sensor- (2021)- $70

New LED taillight housings (w/resistor)- (2021)- $180

Windshield washer fluid pump- (2022)- $20

OEM GM fuel feed line (from filter to fuel rail)-(2022)- $204

KYB complete rear strut assemblys-(2022)- $237

Trunk lid struts- (2022)- Stabilus 10414234- $40

JVC Stereo w/bluetooth and wired mic- new speakers all around- (2022)

Pass. side hub bearing- (2023) Timkin- $100

Both CV axles (NAPA)- (2023)- $220

New headlights/corners- (2024)- $93

New Bosch wiper blades- (2024)- $60

KYB complete front strut assemblys-(2024)- $270

Moog front swaybar bushings- (2024)- $12

Moog complete drivers side control arm with ball joint/bushings (2024)- $50

New Battery- (2024)- $180

New radiator- (1-18-24) $71.51

upper trans. line- 10330106- (1-18-24)- $56.53

lower trans. line- 10330105- (1-18-24)- $62.41

New black lug nut covers- (2024)- $15

New windshield 2024- no cracks currently- $220

total- $2670.45 not including stereo and speakers

Can use any 98-03 3800 Vin K (non supercharged) Series II engine w/o mods, or a Series III engine if you reuse the upper intake of the Series II engine on it. The engine mount is also different on the Series III engine but can be used as well as the blocks didn't change. Just makes it easier to change engine mount with the SIII setup.

 

[Derphound01]

With all respect, I paid $700 for my Thunderbird 30 months ago which ran and drove without issue (and still does).

A good friend just sold his 2011 Edge with a blown V6 for scrap and got $400 for it.

You could possibly list it at $1200, but considering it needs an engine and likely needs transmission work, I wouldn't expect anyone to offer you more than $500. At the end of the day, it's a 25 year old commuter car with a blown engine.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

I'm not specifically qualified to speak to pricing, but I know from reading a lot about Buicks that these 3800 Series engines have a large, loyal following. You might be able to find a buyer who is in the opposite situation of yours, i.e., they have a good engine in a totaled body.

Also consider that the junk value of a car of that vintage is about $500. So you're really just asking $500-$700 over junk value, for a car that's loaded with recent new parts.

Ultimately, I think it'll boil down to how the car presents esthetically. Does it look and feel worth putting work into it? That buyer is out there, but how do you find him?

 

[XR7-4.6]

Yeah sorry to be a pessimist but I value it somewhere between scrap value and $600 max. Mods and repairs don't add value, those are a best user incurred operating costs... it's like saying "I spent $10,000 on gasoline on this car since I owned it". At the end of the day it's a 24 year old domestic car with rust and bad paint with a bad engine, and the engine that is bad would be the otherwise saving grace to its appeal as 3800s are really the best aspect of GM products of the era, but if it's bad, where's the buyer for it?

Sunk cost fallacy. Stick a fork in it, it's toast.

 

[FordMan77]

Appreciate the feedback guys. Thank you! Yea, I don't expect a miracle here. Just trying to save it from the scrapyard since there are so many new parts on it. Would just be a shame to scrap it.

After reading I may just throw it out there for 1K and see what I get. Just gotta find the right person that wants to put it back together w/o me storing it for years on end as it dies. If they part it out then so be it.

 

[Derphound01]

After reading I may just throw it out there for 1K and see what I get.

I'd start with this and see what happens. The rust is the only thing that is legitimately keeping you from selling this as a good rolling chassis. Structural or not, it's still rust on a GM and we all know what that leads to.

If you want max revenue and are okay with some moderate effort, pull all the cosmetic pieces off it (new lights, stereo/speakers, seats, wheels, exhaust) along with the battery and any spare parts youve got. Throw them up on Craigslist or a 3800 forum. Then scrap the rest of it.

 

[MadMikeyL]

Sorry to be blunt here, but just junk the thing and move on! I understand you know the history on the car and did all the various “upgrades”, but to most people, those upgrades are worthless, and they will consider the maintenance a moot point since it now needs an engine. So what you have is a car with a bad engine, questionable transmission, high mileage, rust issues, paint issues, and interior issues. That is a parts car at best! Nobody is wasting their time putting an engine in a rustbucket high mileage faded paint mismatched interior 270k mile chassis just because it has new struts!

If there’s anything you want off it for yourself, yank that, then send the thing to the junkyard for $300 and move on. Otherwise you really are being the “I know what I got” guy.