MarkVIII Doors

[Vicinity]

Regardless of the stupid door ajar indicator, I seem to be having trouble closing the drivers side door properly, from the inside. Dare I say its easier when the car's moving. Comparatively the bird's doors practically close themselves. I'm trying to hit the sweet spot of gingerly slamming. It sounds like there's a little rattle when I do slam it though, almost as if the window has 0.5mm of slack in its housing. That's what it sounds like, I don't necessarily think it's the window

Closing it from the outside is easy of course, like a two finger slam

There's also something challenging about opening the drivers side door too (from the outside only). We've read that the handles are inherently brittle, so I'm mindful of that every time - but there's nothing else I can grab on to open the car up unless the windows are cracked open.
With that said, there's a weird 1.5 step process. Pull door handle to disengage the door, then I let go and slowly pull the handle to open it. This might be me not following a particular protocol with the security system, and I still got to read through the users manual. Want to drive it more when the weather smooths out

I havent used the passenger door that often, but I didn't have any problems there.

Are they just inherently different doors, or is there something particular with the one I have, I wonder

 

[theterminator93]

It does sound a little reverb-y when I close the doors on mine, but I wouldn't say there's any additional effort from an interior close vs. exterior. The door panel is a little weak around the handle so if it's fractured or not properly attached to the door in that area that may be adding to the feeling of a weaker pull; it might be worth popping it off to take a peek.

I don't use the passenger door often; it tends to "stick" to the rubber weatherstripping and it requires a little extra effort to pull open the first time. I've also had no problems yanking on the exterior handles to bust the doors free of light icing that happens occasionally in the winter, though I don't wail on them too hard.

Really nothing about the security system affects the door opening or closing.

 

[Vicinity]

Hmm, yea! Thats kind of what it's like opening the drivers door from outside, like its sticking to the rubber and causing an extra step to open it

 

[KevinVarnes]

I am overly mindful of the door handles on our '97 T-Bird. I usually just pop it open with the handle and then pull it open by grabbing the rear of the window frame with my fingers. If the door is frozen or sticking I'll grab the bottom edge of the door above the rocker panel with my fingers and pull it open from there. I try to never pull on the exterior door handle to physically open the door.

How are your striker bolt bushings? They could be worn out and need to be replaced. Also could have worn door hinges at this point. With the door open can you lift it up by the rear of the door and feel play in the hinges? These are big heavy doors.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

I usually just pop it open with the handle and then pull it open by grabbing the rear of the window frame with my fingers.

+1

 

[Trunk Monkey]

When I first saw this thread title I could’ve swore it was going to be another one of the disappearing doors, threads.

 

[XR7-4.6]

I'm so relieved it wasnt. Ugly ass contraption

 

[Irv]

When I first saw this thread title I could’ve swore it was going to be another one of the disappearing doors, threads.

I'm so relieved it wasnt. Ugly ass contraption

Where do you think you are, Facebook?

 

[Vicinity]

Ha! I looked up the video for the disappearing doors. Thats funny. Somehow, removing the center pillars make the car look even more pedestrian

I am overly mindful of the door handles on our '97 T-Bird. I usually just pop it open with the handle and then pull it open by grabbing the rear of the window frame with my fingers. If the door is frozen or sticking I'll grab the bottom edge of the door above the rocker panel with my fingers and pull it open from there. I try to never pull on the exterior door handle to physically open the door.

How are your striker bolt bushings? They could be worn out and need to be replaced. Also could have worn door hinges at this point. With the door open can you lift it up by the rear of the door and feel play in the hinges? These are big heavy doors.

No play on the open side of the door. There's some rust color dust in the driver side hinge, but I don't sense any issues with movement. The passenger side does not have the rust powder



Bushings.. Now I picture that to be the intermediate material between metal on metal right? Are we talking between the striker plate and frame, or between the door contacts?

Bird: Looks worn but functions well


LSC: The lighting is weird, this is visually black except worn where its contacting. Looks similar on the passenger side, but less worn (go figure)


Later I intend to get a video of the odd 1.5 process

 

[Vicinity]

I closed the door pretty hard today with the window half down. The window sounded really pissed off. I imagine that's not normal

 

[Grog6]

I'm betting the hinge pins and bushings need to be redone.

 

[supergordo]

When I first saw this thread title I could’ve swore it was going to be another one of the disappearing doors, threads.

Wait, there are dissapearing doors on the Mark 8??!!

 

[Vicinity]

That could be and the windows go first =[

 

[Grog6]

I thought the disappearing doors were cool, but the cutting required was substantial. Cooler than Lambo doors!

 

[Vicinity]

Took it out for the warmest day yet, and the issue was more prominent. The issue with the door may be two separate things.

Opening from outside:
It's almost as if the doors weather seal has maple syrup on it when its hot out. Should I just wipe it all down with a little bit of dawn, or is there a greater issue at hand?

Closing from inside:
Takes a few tries and a bit too much oomf to properly shut the door. This isn't the typical lie from the info display, in fact those messages went away the more it was driven. It genuinely is having troubles closing, and there is no play in the door hinge. Thinking about lubing up the door latch anyway. Will this work for both the latch, and window guides on the other car?

Amazon.com

 

[theterminator93]

I actually rubbed a little lubricant on the rubber seals a couple weeks ago, and it helped for a couple days but then it dried out and was no better than it was before. Perhaps petroleum jelly or something less viscous would work better...

What you're describing sounds like a misaligned latch. Are the hinges oblonged letting the door sag?

 

[Vicinity]

I actually rubbed a little lubricant on the rubber seals a couple weeks ago, and it helped for a couple days but then it dried out and was no better than it was before. Perhaps petroleum jelly or something less viscous would work better...

What you're describing sounds like a misaligned latch. Are the hinges oblonged letting the door sag?

The hinges seem fine from tugging on the open door. From here, yea it does seem the latch is the culprit. How can I check otherwise? The scariest part is how much the window rattles in its cage when the door closes. I keep forgetting its fragile, because the bird does fine. I'll check if the passenger door window does that too

I do have vaseline. I bought it for vacuum lines on the bird, hoping it will allow for easier mounting. Otherwise I have no idea what petroleum jelly is for lol. I will try it and keep you posted if you can point out where I should apply it

It's just odd how well the passenger door functions. It makes me think that the low mileage were all city miles, as they were constantly going in and out of the car

I'm done being aggressive to any doors or trunks after this, except the hoods

 

[Grog6]

If the latch is hanging up, the hinge pins are bad. I've done all my cars at this point. zdrivers' door goes first. get the kit, line drill the hinge, and put the bushings and new pin in. it will be good for another 100k miles. You can buy just the striker, but it will go bad fast unless you do the hinges.

 

[XR7-4.6]

If the latch is hanging up, the hinge pins are bad. I've done all my cars at this point. zdrivers' door goes first. get the kit, line drill the hinge, and put the bushings and new pin in. it will be good for another 100k miles. You can buy just the striker, but it will go bad fast unless you do the hinges.

Agreed. I’ve had the latch plastic fail from brittleness from age(that happened on my passenger side just two years ago) but hanginging up is uniquely a hinge situation. It’s not a super fun repair but it’s the culprit to these symptoms.

 

[Grog6]

I use a dremel cutoff tool to cut the factory pins, pull the pieces out. I rigged a couple of 2x4s so the door would stay on my floor jack.