Puny 15/16" rear sway bar

theterminator93

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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I'm going at a few suspension pops/creaks and the rear sway bar endlinks and bushings are on the list. I was all set to order when I got this little voice in my head telling me that I should probably measure the sway bar. I always end up picking the wrong size of bushing.

Good thing I did... the Mark has a puny 15/16" sway bar in the rear (no idea if it's original) and I can find no rear sway bar bushing to fit. Closest thing I can find is what looks like a 1" bushing for the rear - which I could probably cut to shrink slightly (or just live with), but interchange says it's for 89-90s only (I doubt there's any functional difference). Other than that, I see one that looks like it's the right diameter for the front... but aren't they a different mold?

What do you think? Do I get the 1" rears to try or should I get one of the ES universal poly 15/16" bushings?
 
Replace it with the ADDCO 1-1/4" bar. The new bar comes with poly bushings.
 
Interesting idea. It might make more sense for me to upgrade the rear bar on the T-bird slightly and move its stocker to the Mark. However, Addco's website only lists a 1-1/16" bar for the rear. Still 1/4" larger than the one on the Mark now, but isn't that the factory size on the T-bird (or did the non-sports get a 1" rear)?
 
I'm almost certain .96 is the stock V8 sport rear bar diameter. The 89 SC had the largest factory rear bar and it was about 1.1"

The smallest Addco was the 1-1/8 unless they reduced its size for some reason, its a good bar as well, you don't need a giant bar in back
 
You're right, it's a 1-1/8, I had a fraction conversion fail. I should just go measure the bar on the bird. :)
 
Some bars are solid, some are hollow. The 89 sc bar is solid, there the std v8 is not. They are the same dia.
 
Interesting idea. It might make more sense for me to upgrade the rear bar on the T-bird slightly and move its stocker to the Mark. However, Addco's website only lists a 1-1/16" bar for the rear. Still 1/4" larger than the one on the Mark now, but isn't that the factory size on the T-bird (or did the non-sports get a 1" rear)?
Interesting. I thought their sizes were 1-1/4 and 1-3/8.
 
After two weeks of procrastinating I finally placed the parts order, since I'll need to rotate the tires and change the oil next week I figured that was a good chance to get it all done at once. I found a pair of closeout bushings for a 1" rear bar (which is what I measured the T-bird to have) for like $3, so I figured "why not, they're basically free"... if it's a bust I'll probably order the 1-1/8" Addco rear bar for the T-bird, then move its 1" over to the Mark. It's probably a better match for the car (the bird) anyway, as I already put J springs on the rear.
 
The larger bars make a huge difference in these car as I happen to know a little bit about them ;)

Mark
 
I agree with Mark, i have the 1 3/8" in the front and rear of mine, same with 2 other buddies and we all love them. Probably the single biggest handling improvement available. They eliminate virtually all body roll. I've had mine for about 10 years, Zach has had his in his cougar for at least 15 years, my other buddy just did his and wished he had done it sooner. My sc is getting them before it even hits the road (I already have them).
 
I have a 1 3/8 rear bar in the roof of the garage; I'll be damned if I know how I got it in there. there is an 89 sc front bar beside it.
 
@Grog6 The SC front bar isn’t much thicker than the 4.6 bar, and the routing is whack for a 4.6 (Addcos are too but at least they’re substantially larger). Not worth messing with IMO

The big Addcos make a major seat of the pants difference but in terms of outright handling I’m a believer in the bigger front bar/moderate rear bar combo. There’s not much body roll to begin with in these especially with Sport/SC or the various flavors of lowering springs and at the end of the day you want to eliminate body roll to counteract camber loss on the outside tire. SLA cars gain camber as the suspension compresses so having absolute flat cornering via the biggest bar isn’t necessarily beneficial vs a 1.25 or even stock bars(depending). Big in the rear makes the rear easier to come out, which might be a desirable trait but could also be detrimental to putting power to the ground out of a corner; I remember @maddmartigan was having that issue on his auto cross bird and went down a bar size in the back. It all depends on your individual setup/needs.
 
Yeah; that was pretty much my assessment; I looked at swapping the front bar when I had the engine out, but it would have taken dropping the k-member, from what I could see.
That's why they're in the roof of the garage; if someone wants them, they have to dig them out, lol.
 

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