So. I messed up on my front links

LukesCougar

LukesCougar

3rd Gear Poster
Joined
Dec 27, 2023
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138
Location
Olney Illinois
Vehicle Details
1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6 Limited edtion - 1996 Cougar Xr7 4.6
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I was doing rear shocks and sway bar inlinks all the way around. All went smooth besides the front links.

Should i drill out the stud? Im tempted to stop here and take it to the shop before i screw things even further. Tried a hammer + cheap exention and knocking it out. After 2 hrs of sitting with penetrator. Still wont budge

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If you have time to pick up some tools (or have someone who can take you to a parts place that rents them out), a tie rod lifter can help on the sway bar side, since the ball joint was removed a pickle fork probably won't help.

or https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648692-Small-Tie-Puller/dp/B0015UWW1O

Otherwise, it's my go-to for separating ball joints from what they're secured to. I got this kit a while ago - quite versatile.

 
LukesCougar said:
I was doing rear shocks and sway bar inlinks all the way around. All went smooth besides the front links.

Should i drill out the stud? Im tempted to stop here and take it to the shop before i screw things even further. Tried a hammer + cheap exention and knocking it out. After 2 hrs of sitting with penetrator. Still wont budge

View attachment 11813View attachment 11814
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Can you get a drill in there? Maybe a center punch first?
 
You’ll never get it out trying to hammer it out because the sway bar is a spring so it just absorbs the impact. Instead, hit the bar hard from the front. A few good whacks in this direction will flex the metal enough that the tapered fit will separate and it will literally just fall out. See red arrow for where to hit.
IMG_5255.jpeg
 
Zep5.0 said:
Can you get a drill in there? Maybe a center punch first?
Click to expand...
Im contemplating drilling it out. I dont have any good drill bits right now so ill have to get parts in the morning.
theterminator93 said:
If you have time to pick up some tools (or have someone who can take you to a parts place that rents them out), a tie rod lifter can help on the sway bar side, since the ball joint was removed a pickle fork probably won't help.
Click to expand...
I did try a c clamp, and vice grips. I might rent a tie rod lifter tomorrow morning as well and see how that goes.

Will the knuckle arm be alright? I wish I wouldn't have gouged it but I wasn't paying as much attention as I should of.
 
MadMikeyL said:
You’ll never get it out trying to hammer it out because the sway bar is a spring so it just absorbs the impact. Instead, hit the bar hard from the front. A few good whacks in this direction will flex the metal enough that the tapered fit will separate and it will literally just fall out. See red arrow for where to hit.
View attachment 11817
Click to expand...

This!
 
MadMikeyL said:
You’ll never get it out trying to hammer it out because the sway bar is a spring so it just absorbs the impact. Instead, hit the bar hard from the front. A few good whacks in this direction will flex the metal enough that the tapered fit will separate and it will literally just fall out. See red arrow for where to hit.
View attachment 11817
Click to expand...
I didnt think about that.
 
LukesCougar said:
Will the knuckle arm be alright? I wish I wouldn't have gouged it but I wasn't paying as much attention as I should of.
Click to expand...

I wouldn’t worry about that, if there’s any specific concern I’d have about that is moisture getting through the gouges and into threads causing a big PITA later but you can solve that with liberal application of antisieze. I did the same overzealous grinding to get a caliper off my Focus a few months ago
 
XR7-4.6 said:
I wouldn’t worry about that, if there’s any specific concern I’d have about that is moisture getting through the gouges and into threads causing a big PITA later but you can solve that with liberal application of antisieze. I did the same overzealous grinding to get a caliper off my Focus a few months ago
Click to expand...
I almost thought about filling the gouges with jb weld. Had some laying around but when i need it.. its vanished. I do need some anti seize too.
 
LukesCougar said:
I did try a c clamp, and vice grips. I might rent a tie rod lifter tomorrow morning as well and see how that goes.
Click to expand...

The problem with C-clamps and Vise-Grip type tools is that they're not designed to exert the PSI required to separate a ball joint. They're for holding things together, not separating them. Before they get close they start to flex and instead of more clamping force, all you do is bend the tool.
 
Do not under any circumstances try to drill it out! That will destroy the sway bar, and the front sway bar cannot be replaced without dropping the front subframe. And don’t worry about those gouges in the knuckle, they won’t affect anything once it is back together.
 
theterminator93 said:
The problem with C-clamps and Vise-Grip type tools is that they're not designed to exert the PSI required to separate a ball joint. They're for holding things together, not separating them. Before they get close they start to flex and instead of more clamping force, all you do is bend the tool.
Click to expand...

Agreed. My c clamp was not happy, and the vice grip was slipping before it could even budge the stud or hold the ball joint.

On the bright side. Previous owner had tie rod ends done.

If only they replaced the other 3 components with a ball joint/ joints XD lca balljoint looks tasty
 
MadMikeyL said:
Do not under any circumstances try to drill it out! That will destroy the sway bar, and the front sway bar cannot be replaced without dropping the front subframe. And don’t worry about those gouges in the knuckle, they won’t affect anything once it is back together.
Click to expand...
I wasnt thinking about that either. Sounds like a pain just to do a swaybar. Ill stick to the tie rod lifter/ tapping the sway bar to knock it loose instead. It was the last option in my mind but now id say ill leave it off the table
 
MadMikeyL said:
Not “tapping” the sway bar. Beat that thing like it owe you money! Little love taps won’t do a damn thing.
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Yeah i will sure try. However im a solid 120lbs. So i might have a friend come by and do some of the hard knocking for me XD
 
Weirdly. This is my first encounter with stubborn links. The rears have always been easy.. but on my 97 cougar and 96 they all just popped off. Never even had to use pb. The 96 is a rust bucket too but they came right off.
 
theterminator93 said:
What was the method you used to ultimately get it free?
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I tried knocking the sway bar as described. Didnt break the seal. Ultimately had to go get a torch and get the stud hot

edit: it took one hit with a hammer from the same angle once the stud was hot.
and looking at my struts its good that i got one. The lower control arm bushing is rotted so i think its gonna be fun to get the retaining bolt out.
 
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