The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

[White Lincoln]

Not sure, but back in the day on TSTSNBN the theory was to line the wheel lug hole closest to the valve stem with the yellow stud to avoid vibration.

Joe

I always thought it was where the locking lug nut was mounted. But Rodeo's thought makes sense too.

Who knows...

 

[theterminator93]

Yeah the theory was that the yellow was where there was the most runout on the hub.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Personally I think the paint is simply an inspection mark… “ yep there’s 5 lugs, send it down the line”

Don't we know anyone at Ford who actually knows?

Inspection mark sounds logical. There's nothing in the Ford workshop manual saying anything about aligning the valve with anything.

 

[theterminator93]

A guy I used to work with was a line worker. If I run into him I'll try to remember to ask.

 

[XR7-4.6]

Yeah the theory was that the yellow was where there was the most runout on the hub.

The huge thing that gets me with that theory is I’ve bought brand new Cobra hubs from Ford when they were available, there’s no markings on them whatsoever. If there was a point of excessive runout wouldn’t that be most likely done by the supplier of the hubs? Who was putting the marks on them? The end assembling them into the spindles? The end installing them into the suspension? The end installing the suspension into the chassis?

That plus they’re so unsubstantial if it’s runout, the direction of the wing indents in the Tbird centercaps would have as much effect

 

[Grog6]

I have also replaced them, and there's no mark.
I remember being told the same thing tho.

 

[Bill H]

What’s the preferred way to seal threaded hose barbs on oil relo kits? I’m tired of thread tape leaking.

I was considering JB weld epoxy. I bought some permatex thread sealer. My buddy suggested RTV and now I just read Grog wasnt sure his intake would come off since it was glued with RTV.

I never plan to unscrew them again. What’s a proven method?

 

[Zep5.0]

I try to use liquid thread sealant and give it time to set up before adding fluids.

 

[XR7-4.6]

I use Blue Monster tape

 

[Grog6]

I put the oil reloc kit together with permatex 1; it will not come off.
RTV can be easily cut with a length of tungsten wire; that's what we used at work. wrap it around popsickle sticks to keep your fingers.

 

[Kurt K]

This if you hate yourself

Duralast Disc Brake Caliper Piston Tool 82-010 | AutoZone

The Disc Brake Piston Tool from Duralast rewinds a wide variety of threaded rear brake caliper pistons found on foreign and domestic vehicles when replacing brake pads. Each side has distinctively designed pins that interlock with various pistons, making it possible to push and rotate the piston...

www.autozone.com

Years ago, I used one of those, but had to modify it to actually fit my car. Now I have a brake removal kit that I think I bought from Harbor Freight that works great.

 

[Grog6]

The cube works great if you Sharpen the edges of the protuberances so they don't slip, bolt the caliper in place with the disk off, put the cube on a socket adapter for a cordless drill. spin the piston in.

 

[Jae 'Bird]

I asked before but if my brakes work, but hiss in the cab at certain points along the pedal travel, that’s almost 100% my booster gone bad right? Rock auto has been out of stock for a while and they just got one in so I’m deciding if I should get it

 

[Generalee0527]

What’s the preferred way to seal threaded hose barbs on oil relo kits? I’m tired of thread tape leaking.

I was considering JB weld epoxy. I bought some permatex thread sealer. My buddy suggested RTV and now I just read Grog wasnt sure his intake would come off since it was glued with RTV.

I never plan to unscrew them again. What’s a proven method?

If you can find it, I have found my home HVAC sevice folks use Leak Lock.

 

[Kidd-7]

Played with it over the weekend, began troubleshooting in a failed state. It wasn’t until I touched the socket that it started working. Hmmm. Then couldn’t get it to fail again. I replaced the bulb with a spare I had.
No problem back and forth to work today.

Still no problems, it was the bulb. Touching the socket would make it work again, but with this new bulb installed it hasn't failed at all. Crazy.

 

[XR7-4.6]

Still no problems, it was the bulb. Touching the socket would make it work again, but with this new bulb installed it hasn't failed at all. Crazy.

 

[Jae 'Bird]

I asked before but if my brakes work, but hiss in the cab at certain points along the pedal travel, that’s almost 100% my booster gone bad right? Rock auto has been out of stock for a while and they just got one in so I’m deciding if I should get it

Just bumping this, I know that I might have to change some vacuum hoses as well depending on what I find

 

[Grog6]

Still no problems, it was the bulb. Touching the socket would make it work again, but with this new bulb installed it hasn't failed at all. Crazy.

I've had to deal with tungsten filaments, and they will weld back together if it vibrates and touches the other terminal. It can work for a while.
A 1" thoriated iridium filament was $180 in 1999. They make electrons in a vacuum.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

We're in the trunk, driver side, directly below the package tray. What is this single, relatively large gauge, oddly tight wire without any tape or casing around it?

Rear defrost maybe?

The way it's routes looks almost non-factory, but I didn't put it there.

 

[Zep5.0]

We're in the trunk, driver side, directly below the package tray. What is this single, relatively large gauge, oddly tight wire without any tape or casing around it?

Rear defrost maybe?

The way it's routes looks almost non-factory, but I didn't put it there.

I think you're correct as I'm fairly certain the light in the sail panel comes in the harness from the rear speaker, etc.

 

[XR7-4.6]

We're in the trunk, driver side, directly below the package tray. What is this single, relatively large gauge, oddly tight wire without any tape or casing around it?

Rear defrost maybe?

The way it's routes looks almost non-factory, but I didn't put it there.

View attachment 17589

I don’t think that’s factory, nor are the split looms, the factory interior harnesses just use vinyl tape wrapped the wire bundles.

I wonder if it’s an old cellular phone install with that wire being for the antenna

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

I don’t think that’s factory, nor are the split looms, the factory interior harnesses just use vinyl tape wrapped the wire bundles.

I wonder if it’s an old cellular phone install with that wire being for the antenna

Well, after looking at diagrams, brown/light blue is the proper color for window defrost. So that's what that is, though the tight routing still strikes me as odd.

The plastic looms are of my own making.

 

[XR7-4.6]

Well, after looking at diagrams, brown/light blue is the proper color for window defrost. So that's what that is, though the tight routing still strikes me as odd.

The plastic looms are of my own making.

Oh I thought the wire was black on my screen. In fairness I’m accustomed to the Cougar defrost wire routing which goes through the sail panels, not through the trunk through the package tray