The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

I asked that recently as I needed a new ECM and was told that -P was a California code. My 97 came with -B, for what it's worth.
 
3_97_Sports said:
It is a calibration code, I know that much.
Is it for California maybe? And would that calibration code still run the same as the other one?
I know that my cars have 718-b codes in the door jamb.
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Yes, it is CA related. However, if there's any  real difference, you'd only be able to ascertain if you could compare the code. IIRC, some people suggested that the CA tune had another warm-up strategy (?).

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OK. the code on the doorjamb is the last factory tune applied to your eec by a dealer. IIRC, that's supposed to make the trans last longer. That code is irrelevant if you have an aftermarket tune.It gets overwritten.
 
Is there a part number or some other way of knowing what precise light bulb holder is needed for our instrument consoles?

I have a console full of black ones, and then one oddball grey one on the far left that I can't for the life of me get the bulb out of, and I'm thinking of just buying some replacement holders of the original style. Except I don't know what that is. Thanks.
 
Before you replace anything, try inserting a short length of polyurethane tubing that fits very tightly over the bulb and try to pull it out that way. I think that is actually in the service manual for one of the tiny bulbs used to illuminate the hvac controls on my Saturn. I was skeptical, but it worked like a charm.
 
Should I be concerned? That’s the boot over the brake shaft going through the firewall. Can’t tell if it’s brake fluid or something else.
IMG_5081.jpeg
 
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I've never seen it on that side, but what else could it be?
Unbolt the master, pull it back a bit, and see if the master is bad.
Smell of it; if it's engine oil, it's condensed oil vapor from the vacuum line.
 
I've always thought my brakes were kinda soft, but everyone (mechanics) that drove it said they were fine. She brakes great, just the first 1/2" or so seems soft to me. I'll look it over again this weekend.
 
Kidd-7 said:
I've always thought my brakes were kinda soft, but everyone (mechanics) that drove it said they were fine. She brakes great, just the first 1/2" or so seems soft to me. I'll look it over again this weekend.
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same, my cars brakes have always worked fine, but the pedal has had some squish to them at the top of the travel, although the hiss so I will check that out in the spring
 
It’s pretty normal, every time I’ve opened the system over the years I’ve bled and bled the brakes thinking there’s air trapped in the lines but it’s just the way the system is overboosted. Was the same way in my buddies old SC after we converted it from Teves II to conventional using a factory vacuum booster. Teves II for all its faults by far has the best brake pedal feel (when it works)
 
Jae 'Bird said:
same, my cars brakes have always worked fine, but the pedal has had some squish to them at the top of the travel, although the hiss so I will check that out in the spring
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Are you four wheel disc or disc/drum? Rear drum adjustment can make a pretty big difference in pedal feel. If you are rear drum, it might be worth pulling the rear wheels and seeing where they are at. It doesn't seem like anybody has made a set of properly adjusting drums in about 50 years. I used to constantly have to adjust the rears on my old '92. Same for my Saturns.
 
I had a similar issue on Lazarus, and it turned out to be a bad rear caliper. The pass side rear was retracting ~1/8", Making for excess travel. They shouldn't retract nearly that much. This is only visible when bleeding it.
 
Speaking of drums. I just ordered a rebuild kit (pads, springs, drums) for our 1999 RAM 1500. Now I just have to wait the weather to improve to install them. I’ve never messed with drum brakes before but after watching a YouTube how-to video I’m now a certified expert. :LOL:
 
Sorry, I was referring specifically to Jae Bird on that comment, but I have seen what Grog mentioned where a caliper will retract too far causing a mushy/soft pedal too.
 
My 63. it needed to be driven like a boat, if the brakes got hot,unless you wanted to hit the dock. :(
you need the tool with the spring hook. Build the pair of shoes with the springs, the last move is to go from vertical to the backing plate, to flat to it, with the ends of the shoes in place.
That'll make more sense as you do it. wear gloves and a resp; the powder is asbestos usually.
 
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