The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

Is nearly an 1/8" backlash at the pinion flange way too much? I've got a decent "clunk" when I put my car in gear and it's the only think that makes sense. This rear great setup only has a free thousand miles on it and sat for 20 years without use. Am I looking at a rebuild?
 
Does anyone have a how-to regarding alternator maintenance? I'm thinking mine has a light clicking coming from it.

Yes, I know, potentially a bearing issue. But it could also be contamination/debris. Can I open it up and clean it out? How difficult is this?
 
I've rebuilt them. I used a "victory lap" rebuild kit, and did the regulator, brushes, and bearings. It's a bitch getting the bearings off the shaft or case, whichever they stick to.
Clean up the ring the brushes run on with fine sandpaper.
The kit was ~$20, 10 years ago.
 
Zep5.0 said:
Is nearly an 1/8" backlash at the pinion flange way too much? I've got a decent "clunk" when I put my car in gear and it's the only think that makes sense. This rear great setup only has a free thousand miles on it and sat for 20 years without use. Am I looking at a rebuild?
Click to expand...

That seems about right, I feel like when I was setting up my diff even with .010 backlash I was turning the pinion about that amount
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Does anyone have a how-to regarding alternator maintenance? I'm thinking mine has a light clicking coming from it.

Yes, I know, potentially a bearing issue. But it could also be contamination/debris. Can I open it up and clean it out? How difficult is this?
Click to expand...

Back before I knew anything, I had a clicking sound in Dirty Bird and after a few weeks, that clicking sound turned to a rattle. A few days later, I needed a new belt, alternator, and pigtail for the alternator plug 🙃

Zep5.0 said:
If you can find a copper washer, they work pretty well.
Click to expand...

Will an aluminum one work? They also have plastic ones at the parts store.
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Back before I knew anything, I had a clicking sound in Dirty Bird and after a few weeks, that clicking sound turned to a rattle. A few days later, I needed a new belt, alternator, and pigtail for the alternator plug 🙃



Will an aluminum one work? They also have plastic ones at the parts store.
Click to expand...
Aluminum isn't soft enough. Hard rubber is good too but does wear of you over tighten
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Back before I knew anything, I had a clicking sound in Dirty Bird and after a few weeks, that clicking sound turned to a rattle. A few days later, I needed a new belt, alternator, and pigtail for the alternator plug 🙃



Will an aluminum one work? They also have plastic ones at the parts store.
Click to expand...

I had a brand new alternator go out on me, not sure exactly what happened. its been awhile, but a pull or 2 later and the alternator started whining badly and i had a dead battery. went to oreillys and they tested it and threw me another
 
So I had a new experience in my 95 XR7. The radio would not output any sound via AM, FM or cassette. Got home from my short trip, turned off and restarted my car in the driveway and still no sound. The next morning, everything worked fine. Could there be a separate power source to just output the sound?

Additional information: The car has intermittent ignition related power issues such as the voltmeter mostly not working and the occasionally working for a couple of consecutive drives; or the dash clock with reset when turning the car off (I know this because the clock will show exactly how much time I have been at work, or at the store).

I assume the recent radio issue is also related to my ignition abnormalities.

Thoughts?
 
An intermittent, 30 yo stereo?
Give it a love tap, and see if it comes in.
If that works, it has cold solder joints on its amp chip. They need resoldered.
 
Grog6 said:
An intermittent, 30 yo stereo?
Give it a love tap, and see if it comes in.
If that works, it has cold solder joints on its amp chip. They need resoldered.
Click to expand...
That sounds reasonable, but I was kinda thinking it might have been related to the other intermittent issues. Regardless, I'll definitely consider the cold solder perspective and hitting it like the old TV when I was a kid. Thanks
 
You might want to add some tin foil and sit with your arms out till the station tunes in. LOL
1779278739393.png
 
Kurt K said:
So I had a new experience in my 95 XR7. The radio would not output any sound via AM, FM or cassette. Got home from my short trip, turned off and restarted my car in the driveway and still no sound. The next morning, everything worked fine. Could there be a separate power source to just output the sound?

Additional information: The car has intermittent ignition related power issues such as the voltmeter mostly not working and the occasionally working for a couple of consecutive drives; or the dash clock with reset when turning the car off (I know this because the clock will show exactly how much time I have been at work, or at the store).

I assume the recent radio issue is also related to my ignition abnormalities.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...


No idea, but im having something similar happen. My cassette player will work on and off. Sometimes ill start my car and it works fine. Others it will give me errors and spit out the cassette.

So im usually left with radio/ bluetooth transmitter which sounds awful
 
LukesCougar said:
No idea, but im having something similar happen. My cassette player will work on and off. Sometimes ill start my car and it works fine. Others it will give me errors and spit out the cassette.

So im usually left with radio/ bluetooth transmitter which sounds awful
Click to expand...
I do know that these radios can and do have solder and capacitor issues. Mine just happened for the 1st time along with my other intermittent issues....I thought they might be related. If your radio is the only issue, maybe it it time to replace.
 
Kurt K said:
I do know that these radios can and do have solder and capacitor issues. Mine just happened for the 1st time along with my other intermittent issues....I thought they might be related. If your radio is the only issue, maybe it it time to replace.
Click to expand...
In terms of electrical issues, as far as i know everything works fine aside from the cassette player itself, and weirdly my unlock/ lock switch sometimes fails? like the light will turn off on the door switch and do nothing, one door slam later and its working again and the light is on.

Ill assume loose connection, ive just been focused on other things and havent bothered
 
I had an intermittent window switch on my Ex, ended up being the wire bundle near the door hinge. After years of opening closing wires broke.
 
For those with tint, approx how much would one expect to pay to have one of our cars tinted?
 
I've been having front end clunk on Gold Bird for some time now. I replaced the end links over the weekend as clunking noises are typically end links. Not this time.

What should I look for?

I did replace the front struts with Monroe quick struts shortly after purchase last year. Everything is tight with those, so I'm not sure what else to look at.

Suggestions?

FWIW, noise comes from front right.
 
CDsDontBurn said:
I've been having front end clunk on Gold Bird for some time now. I replaced the end links over the weekend as clunking noises are typically end links. Not this time.

What should I look for?

I did replace the front struts with Monroe quick struts shortly after purchase last year. Everything is tight with those, so I'm not sure what else to look at.

Suggestions?

FWIW, noise comes from front right.
Click to expand...

Strut rod bushings, the only actual struts in our suspension 😝
 
Check these threads:
LukesCougar

Thread 'Where in the hell are the washers?'

I had the OEM replica rears/ poly front strut rod bushings installed at the shop.. but where in the hell are the washers?

Got the car back, steering feels infinitely better and the binding sensation is gone, but looking underneath I'm curious were
the rears installed correctly..? there aren't any washer holding them and I had forwarded instructions from SCP to them.

1000012723.jpg
  • Wow
K

Thread 'Loud pop turning right'

I've had some noise from the front suspension and recently replaced the drivers side shock mount, the metal sleeve was floating up and down.

Now I have a loud pop sound usually when turning right and the weight shifts onto the drivers side. I can actually feel it through the brake pedal. I got under it today and everything I see is tight. No play in the steering (9&3), very slight 6 & 12 play (wheel bearing are now on the list). Using a pry bar I stressed every ball joint there. Even bouncing the front up & down, no pops.

I'm attaching some pics, strut rod to LCA bushing has a slight...
A couple of us are chasing similar noises.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Strut rod bushings, the only actual struts in our suspension 😝
Click to expand...

Kidd-7 said:
Check these threads:
LukesCougar

Thread 'Where in the hell are the washers?'

I had the OEM replica rears/ poly front strut rod bushings installed at the shop.. but where in the hell are the washers?

Got the car back, steering feels infinitely better and the binding sensation is gone, but looking underneath I'm curious were
the rears installed correctly..? there aren't any washer holding them and I had forwarded instructions from SCP to them.

1000012723.jpg
  • Wow
K

Thread 'Loud pop turning right'

I've had some noise from the front suspension and recently replaced the drivers side shock mount, the metal sleeve was floating up and down.

Now I have a loud pop sound usually when turning right and the weight shifts onto the drivers side. I can actually feel it through the brake pedal. I got under it today and everything I see is tight. No play in the steering (9&3), very slight 6 & 12 play (wheel bearing are now on the list). Using a pry bar I stressed every ball joint there. Even bouncing the front up & down, no pops.

I'm attaching some pics, strut rod to LCA bushing has a slight...
A couple of us are chasing similar noises.
Click to expand...

MadMikeyL said:
Either strut rod bushings, or lower ball joints.
Click to expand...

OK, strut rod bushings. Got it

LCAs / Ball joint, while plausible, is unlikely, as they were replaced at the same time with the Monroe Quick Struts.

Guess I'll need another alignment afterwards. Good thing I got that lifetime alignment 😀.
 
Strut rod bushings take a pounding on our cars, they are holding the braking force of the brakes vs our 3800 lb cars. over about 2 square inches of material.
If anyone installed thermoplastic bushings, look to see if they're still there, they tend to break and leave. also, polyurethane has been known to crawl over the washers. Someone sold a full set 20 years ago for the front end, and people bitched. Poly has as many hardness grades as rubber, soft to hard.
 
Grog6 said:
Strut rod bushings take a pounding on our cars, they are holding the braking force of the brakes vs our 3800 lb cars. over about 2 square inches of material.
If anyone installed thermoplastic bushings, look to see if they're still there, they tend to break and leave. also, polyurethane has been known to crawl over the washers. Someone sold a full set 20 years ago for the front end, and people bitched. Poly has as many hardness grades as rubber, soft to hard.
Click to expand...
The poly ranging from soft to hard makes me curious, as well as true rubber having the potential to be hard.

I keep seeing these "ramcoa" stamped black bushings. They have a matte finish as if they were rubber, but clap them together and they sound super dense.

They appear to have the exact same mold as moog blue thermoplastic too, but are sold claiming to be "natural rubber" whether its mevotech for 8$ or precision chassis for 70...... it all looks like theyre the exact same chinesium part??
 
Also. Certified stupid question After ordering a used set of factory original bushings.. im curious.. can i spray synthetic lube like silicone or is there any way to "protect and restore" natural rubber bushings?

A quick google search tells me to go for it, but im not sure i trust that and i assume most people leave them alone and dry.

however, I spent 110$ to get these original bushings. They have slight wear but Id like to protect them.
 
Both rubber and poly use fillers to alter their properties. Rubber uses carbon black and sulfur, and gets baked to vulcanize the rubber.
Poly uses fillers and plasticisers to do the same.
I use ammonium percchlorate and aluminum powder in polyurethane for my rocket engines; they're a 90% fill, so pretty hard.
 
A couple days ago I noticed, but it's gotten exponentially worse today, when braking, especially at higher speeds, there is a repetitive and significant "thumping" type noise on the front right.

Thoughts on what this could be? Could this be related to the strut rod bushings, perhaps?
 
Probably. Unless somethings falling off, lol.
 
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