Tune Options For Manual Swap

Doxnoogle

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96 Tbird Lx, PI 4.6
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I figured this would maybe be a better place to ask than my swap thread. In a nutshell, 96 tbird, 2003 PI engine, getting tr3650. Scope is "drives good" as a manual, raise rev limiter a bit, and raise / disable governor. What im looking for is basically whatever is going to be the easiest most cost effective option to get this to run right with the manual? Im looking at mustang ECUs but not sure if i need one with pats disabled or if it will be fine. Ive no experience with hand held tuners, not sure if this is something they can do or would be buying a tune on top of the tuner itself. Pulled my chip from SCP to send for reflash then found out it was going to be $200+ (prohibitively expensive in my mind) just to ditch the auto trans bits. Since then, butt dyno has failed to notice anything different as far as power, but im definitely seeing around 1.5mpg better without the chip. Im not a tuner, no aspirations to be one, want this done as cheap as is practical since the plan is to have a coyote in the thing in a couple years.
 
As long as the PCM is for a 96-97 there is no PATS to mess with
 
As long as the PCM is for a 96-97 there is no PATS to mess with
Yes, but a 96-97 PCM will be for an NPI engine, and he has the PI engine. A manual 96/97 Mustang PCM without a tune will run better than the factory Tbird automatic PCM without a tune, but neither will be optimal. I honestly think the best option is sending the chip out for a reflash.
 
Your only other option is an ebay xcal2 (UNLOCKED or it's not worth the price, whatever it is.) and a canned tune from Don Lasota Racing. You can buy a newer tuner from Don, with a tune for about the same price as the $200 you were quoted. If the 03 pi just went in, did you look at the condition of the tensioners and chains? There are serious issues with the plastic tensioners on those engines, and the slides all disintegrate. You will want to check. They updated the plastic.
 
It doesn’t need to be a xcal 2, an X3 or current day X4 will work too
 
Those you can buy from Don, and I think a tune is $50. It was 20 years ago, lol.
 
As long as the PCM is for a 96-97 there is no PATS to mess with
Thats good to know, ebay listings and the like are saying that its not plug and play due to pats and the reflashed ones are 2-3x the price. Does the calibration code mean anything specific? Im seeing three or four different ones cruising ebay, didnt know if any are better than another or if theres a way to find out. Some threads say theyre the same, some say theyre different regarding a 2 speed fuel pump and pats. ebay link

Yes, but a 96-97 PCM will be for an NPI engine, and he has the PI engine. A manual 96/97 Mustang PCM without a tune will run better than the factory Tbird automatic PCM without a tune, but neither will be optimal. I honestly think the best option is sending the chip out for a reflash.
I like what my chip does for the trans, better shifts and shift points, converter lockup, etc, but honestly, doesnt seem to be a difference in power. Im definitely getting better mileage without the chip in there right now so im kinda failing to see why i should keep the tune after i swap the trans. On top of that, best i can tell 98 ECU/ECMs should also interchange and 98s were rated at 225 instead of 215.

If the 03 pi just went in, did you look at the condition of the tensioners and chains? There are serious issues with the plastic tensioners on those engines, and the slides all disintegrate. You will want to check. They updated the plastic.
Its been in there a couple years now, ive put around 25k on it, bought it with 92k and very high compression test. Since ive had it in ive had no complaints, its quieter than practically every other modular ive listened to and runs really nice.
 
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The 03 I bought was already falling apart. Those plastic tensioners will kill it quick. They also lack the oil squirters the iron ones have, to lube the chains and slides.
 
The 03 I bought was already falling apart. Those plastic tensioners will kill it quick. They also lack the oil squirters the iron ones have, to lube the chains and slides.
I will keep that in mind, bit of a bummer no one mentioned this when i was bouncing the idea around on the forum before i replaced the tired npi. If it can make it another 2-4 years though it can be someone elses problem.
 
I heard about it from the old guys on the old place; I spoke to Nick at MHS, and he hooked me up with everything I needed. Not too long after that my boss broke a timing chain on his truck, from the same problem.
 
it’s not a guaranteed death sentence, most Modular’s live well beyond the car it’s in regardless of iron or plastic tensionsers but for high performance and sustained high rpm blasts converting them to iron is good insurance, they’re not too hard to change at least
 

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