What did you do with your Thunderbird Today?

Put the driver seat covers into the washer for that fresh feeling, but some stubborn dark shadows just won't come out, especially below my left knee. Still a good cleaning. Not doing the passenger seat this year as hardly anyone ever sits there.

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How much work is it to take the seat skin off?
 
How much work is it to take the seat skin off?

For the back rest, it only requires removal of the headrest. Very easy.

For the seat bottom cushion, it requires separation of the seat frame from the track as well as separation of the back rest frame from the seat frame. None of it is difficult, but you have to remove the seat from the car, and then go through the disassembly/assembly.

The seat covers themselves only use velcro and reusable plastic hooks along some edges. No special tools needed.


In my opinion, it's absolutely worth it. Trying to clean cloth seats in the car is just as tedious, and you don't get the same level of clean.
 
That's great! I assumed that hog rings were on the front seats as well. Other cars I have worked on always used them.

Would the leather trim/cloth seats in my cougar hold up alirght in a machine wash? Or is this only applicable to the full cloth seats?
 
That's ridiculous! :facepalm:

Are other states that high?

Joe
 
We don't do inspections. you see some sketchy vehicles here, lol.
 
I did mine recently.. :bawling: 200 per car (expires in two years)

That's ridiculous! :facepalm:

Are other states that high?

Joe

In California, vehicle registration is tied to the biannual smog check on cars older than 6yrs. The registration is annual, but for those older cars, every other year it's the registration cost and the smog check.

My Honda was $160+ $50 smog check back in 2024.
 
Self explanatory

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God I hate taking off the endlinks from the sway bar end!!!

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The boots already looked like this just from a few years of operation, and the bottom joint is quite loose! These were TRW, new ones are Mevotechi much much prefer this boot type
 
The blue booted ones I put on the Red Cougar in 09, made by raybestos, still look great 17 years later. They have been parked that long;

I blew it up a week later, lol.
 
Upper shock nut, and then UCA bolt? I'm tempted to try it this way because fully assembled it's tough to get the exact clocking for the upper mount bolts and lower shock bolt right
 
Upper shock nut, and then UCA bolt? I'm tempted to try it this way because fully assembled it's tough to get the exact clocking for the upper mount bolts and lower shock bolt right

Not quite, all these pics were during the install rather than removal but my method is as follows:

Removal

1) unbolt Sway bar link from the knuckle

2) unbolt caliper from the bracket and set aside towards the front (without hanging it off the brake line! I used a convenient box to set mine on)

3) unbolt the UCA from the knuckle

4) unbolt the lower shock bolt from the LCA and remove the bolt and replace with a sturdy screwdriver from the back(handle towards the rear of the car)

5) place a jack under the LCA (I try to get it as close to the ball joint as possible but as long as it’s outboard of the shock mount you’re good) and jack it up until the car barely starts lifting

6) unscrew the upper shock bolt. If you have an impact zip it off, if not an open end wrench and an adjustable wrench at the top to keep the shock from spinning will work too

7) slowly lower all the way to bottom

8) grab the shock absorber with one hand and pull out the screwdriver from step 4 with the other

9) using your foot push down on the LCA or strut rod and pin the loose spring shock and shock out. top first.


Reinstall (mostly repeat in reverse but since it’s fresh memory…)

10) place the spring over the shock and put it in top first

11) push down on the LCA and reinsert the screwdriver where the lower shock bolt would go

12) guide the upper shock threads toward and through the hole in the upper shock mount(this is trickier with longer springs as you’ll need to compress a little, look, readjust and repeat until it’s in the hole)

13) jack up the LCA until there are enough threads through the washer where you can thread on most of the top nut (at this point it’s basically safe) and continue jack it up until the car lifts again and go full send on tightening it all the way down

14) relax the jack and remove the screwdriver

15) replace the lower shock bolt itself(using the jack still in place helps align he holes to make it easier). Partly thread the nut but don’t tighten yet

16) reinstall the brake caliper onto its bracket

17) reinstall the sway bar link to the knuckle

18) reinstall the knuckle to the UCA

19) Torque the the three above things to spec(still not yet the LCA to shock though)

20) reinstall the wheel and set the car down

Last steps

21) Gingerly take the car around the block and when back drive the car up ramps(or in my case the curb) so you can get underneath with full vehicle weight on the springs and fully tighten the LCA to shock nut.

22) loosen and retighten the 4 UCA nuts in the engine compartment(this is only necessary if you change ride height with lowering…or in my case “heightening” springs)
 

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