Chingon's Engine Build

Zep5.0 said:
I feel like I've heard about a shop that used to port these. So it has been done, but not sure how many have done it without the rest of the porting
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TbirdBrain used to do it. Unfortunately he passed away some time ago. I have a set of his manifolds. But they are installed on my sons "shitbird" so I can't take pictures.
But the point is, you can definitely take some material out of those manifolds.
 
Chingon1 said:
Dropped the engine in yesterday and fired her up with the new ported PI heads and she sounds spicy 😬

Today took some time but I installed the vortech head unit, clocked it and pretty much ran ran all the intake tubes all the way up to the throttle body. My pops wired up the new slot maf aswell.

Pretty much the only things left are

Run the PCV hoses
Secure the coil packs
Secure the intercooler
Wire up the gauges

Aaaannnnnddddd tune it. Which is gonna be the hardest part. View attachment 11084
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That gauge on the steering column is pretty sick. Where’d ya get it?
 
@Kidd-7 the guy I bought the charger off of gave it to me but I believe it’s for a 96-04 mustang. It literally fits right on top steering column, I didn’t have to remove mine just goes right over the original one like a cover

@supergordo caution tho, I literally made a hole in the driver side manifold while porting the inner bend, be veeery careful. Luckily I had a buddy who welded it up for me asap. They both have a step right before the exit that’s about 1/4” all around. Specially the passenger side.
 

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Turned the bird in today and the BOV wasn’t opening, popped it open and it turns out it’s not the right spring for the supercharger. I’m super duper hating. Ordered through eBay and should be here in a couple days. Sounds rediculous tho haha, I’m assuming the charger makes the exhaust louder because it does sound like it is.




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still waiting on the spring to get here, I has a question tho

Are the coil packs grounded from the bracket to the front of the engine?? Passenger side isn’t bolted to the front of block anymore and it’s idling wack, I’m assuming it’s that.
 
theterminator93 said:
The reverse is true; if you intend to upgrade MAF and injectors, get a tune for both at the same time, and install both at the same time.

When tuning it can sometimes be advantageous to install one part at a time to help dial it in better, but with better value files for the parts it's not super necessary.
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I put a base tune on Monday, I used the value files for the ba5000 sct maf which I’ve ready is about the same as the PMAS one I currently have.

In the book it says to put all base fueling table at 1 lambda which is did, drove it around a little bit and I checked the AFR gauge (set on lambda) while driving and it would get down to .70-.60 on maybe 40-50% throttle which is think it’s stupid rich. Never went WOT or got close. It’s in open loop per the tuning guide. Do I got back in the tune and put the base fuel table to something higher like 1.2-1.3 lambda to correct the stupid rich .60-.70 at slight throttle?? In a newb. I know open loop doesn’t use the O2 sensors to make sure it’s actually getting the 1 lambda in commanding. Long text I know haha


Grog6 said:
what blower and cams are you using that need 47# injectors?
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Running ported PI heads, stock cams and a v3 vortech not sure of the size tho, running a 3” pulley which I havnt done a full pull yet. Also I have 47’s because they came with the blower when I bought it off the guy. I thought injectors size should be dictated by the amount of projected power your planning on making?? I was even thinking they were just enough for about 10-15lbs PSI





Currently, I don’t know if I’m tripping, but it seems the brand new felpro gaskets aren’t sealing the top good enough. I crank the throttle a bit and can see a bit of oil being pushed out the front of the valve cover by the vortech bracket. I was hoping to remove the covers and apply some black RTV which I’m hoping should resolve this issue. I’m also assuming the way I have my PVC setup is creating a lot of pressure in the crank case. Which could explain the blowing of the oil out the valve covers.

I don’t want to vent to atmosphere like everybody says. Kinda wanna keep it working good. I currently run the passenger PVC to the air/oil separator then to the intake tube. And the driver vent to the air/oil separator then to the lil tube on the plenum. I’m assuming the blowing is literally pushing boost from the intake pipe through the AOS and back into the PVC system. IMG_7114.jpeg
 
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Here’s a cheapy sketch of how I have the AOS, should I just get ride of it and go back to stock?? I was kinda hoping to put both the driver and passenger get vents and plug them into the tube on the lower right portion of the plenum.




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You can’t have the PCV vent hose going there. You are full on pressuring the crankcase, which not only hurts performance, but will blow out every seal and gasket in the engine! Tap into the inlet to the blower instead, and that should resolve the issue. You’ll probably have to replace that valve cover gasket as well. Hopefully you didn’t blow out any other seals on it.
 
You should be using a one way Check Valve in line between the SC and the catch can to prevent pressurizing the can itself .. the PCV is a check valve; so there shouldn't be any issues with pressurizing the crankcase if your hoses are routed correctly.

Normally the PCV draws air in through one side valve cover from intake tube before the TB after the MAF .. and the PCV is routed to the intake manifold.
 
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I'm not sure how your SC is routed to the intake .. if the intake tube is pressurized you'll need to route the hoses differently than the diagram above ( driver valve cover should draw air in from the unpressurized side of intake / same with IAC )
 
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@MadMikeyL i currently don’t have an intake tube it’s just a filter on the front of the supercharger, it’s hard to put a tube there stupid tight. Stock wise, the driver cover gets sucked into the intake the and the passenger side goes to the tube in the plenum right?? Both unmetered air, I wanted to T both valve covers and get them sucked into that tube on the lower tube on the plenum. Would that be cool?? They both won’t see any pressure, well I’m hoping haha.




@dDUBb this is the current setup, I’m just going to remove that separator and run both sides of the vents to the lil tube in the plenum lower right side. It shouldn’t see any boost I’m assuming. As far as the IAC I’m assuming it shouldn’t really matter because it’s a valve and I’m thinking the computer controls how much air goes in regardless if it’s in the boost side of the tube, or am I tripping?? I’m still using the PCV valve on the passenger side tho.

Should I get an intake tube and draw in through there instead?? I’m hoping the way I want to do it (T line both the vents into the lower lil tube on the plenum) should be enough to help clear some of my problem


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Chingon1 said:
Stock wise, the driver cover gets sucked into the intake the and the passenger side goes to the tube in the plenum right?? Both unmetered air
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No .. the air flows in one direction. The manifold vacuum pulls air from the PCV which draws air from the passenger side valve cover - which is connected to the intake after the MAF ( this IS supposed to be metered air )

Chingon1 said:
Should I get an intake tube and draw in through there instead?? I’m hoping the way I want to do it (T line both the vents into the lower lil tube on the plenum)
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The driver side valve cover is NOT a vent; it's an intake. The passenger side with PCV is the vent. Teeing the lines will put a vacuum on both valve covers and pull oil from the crankcase.

Manifold vacuum is highest at idle with the throttle body closed - the IAC is only used at idle and calibrated for manifold vacuum
 
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There may still be a small amount of vacuum on the driver side valve cover using this configuration at WOT; however the PCV check valve should be closed in this condition and will only draw in a small amount of oil vapor into the SC. Otherwise you would use an open air breather and compensate for the unmetered air in the tune at idle. Your current setup should still work - but definately needs to use an open air breather or a check valve between the driver valve cover and intake.

At idle when manifold vacuum is highest; the PCV is open and the amount of vacuum pulled through the driver side valve cover should overcome any vacuum from the SC intake.
 
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This would also work using your current setup; note the two check valves - you want to prevent pressurized intake from entering driver side valve cover and plenum pressure from entering catch can.

Edit - on second thought .. the second check valve to the driver valve cover would need to be a spring loaded check / calibrated to close above the idle PSI in the intake tube to work properly ( installed after MAF ).
 
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dDUBb said:
View attachment 11337

There may still be a small amount of vacuum on the driver side valve cover using this configuration at WOT; however the PCV check valve should be closed in this condition and will only draw in a small amount of oil vapor into the SC. Otherwise you would use an open air breather and compensate for the unmetered air in the tune at idle. Your current setup should still work - but definately needs to use an open air breather or a check valve between the driver valve cover and intake.

At idle when manifold vacuum is highest; the PCV is open and the amount of vacuum pulled through the driver side valve cover should overcome any vacuum from the SC intake.
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Do you have a recommend check valve to use? This is making me reconsider my set up. 🤔
 
Ericv8thunderbird said:
Do you have a recommend check valve to use? This is making me reconsider my set up. 🤔
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I'm not familiar with your setup ..

You can use any vacuum check valve for HVAC systems like the cheap plastic ones from auto stores - in line to the catch can / needs to be secured properly on the boost side. There are a few different higher quality valves available online with more secure barbed fittings.

My SS uses an Elite Engineering V2 can and their brand check valve.

My Super Coupe does not run a catch can - the oil vapor usually ends up condensing and pooling in the Intercooler before it gets to the intake manifold - although a can would prevent that and oil inside the intake plenum / air charge tube.

Edit - the check valve isn't totally necessary; it just prevents putting constant positive and negative pressure fluctuations on the lines securing it and the seal of the can itself. Otherwise the PVC valve is also a check valve to prevent pressurizing the valve cover and crank case.
 
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@dDUBb

1. The passenger side with the PCV is a vent
2. Driver side is NOT a vent but an intake?? As in, it’s intaking air from the intake tube INTO the engine?? Not the other way around, pulling air from the driver cover and dumping into the intake tube??

I thought they were both vents, as in they both are relieving crank pressure and being vented into the intake track and back into the combustion chamber to burn off.

Also, it seemed to me like they were both unmetered air because they don’t go through the MAF. They both go directly into the intake AFTER the MAF.

I drew up the stock setup, my current setup and the way I was thinking of doing it. Which would be T’ing both the valve covers and venting them into the port where on the stock setup, only the passenger PCV hose goes. I’m think they BOTH won’t see any boost just vacuum since it’s after the throttle body.


I have a blow through setup BTW using the Pmas slot MAF in a 3” tube.




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AFTER the MAF is metered air, hence the name. Unmetered air would be any air that makes its way into the intake tract that doesn’t come through the MAF, such as vacuum leaks or something like an open breather on the just the driver side valve cover(indeed it is an intake in the PCV system)
 
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XR7-4.6 said:
Unmetered air would be any air that makes its way into the intake tract that doesn’t come through the MAF, such as vacuum leaks or something like a breather on the driver side valve cover(indeed it is an intake in the PCV system)
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Wait a minute...
You're saying the breather on the driver side valve cover is unmetered?! Or am I misreading that.

That breather is clearly metered because it draws air from the large tube after the MAF sensor.
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Wait a minute...
You're saying the breather on the driver side valve cover is unmetered?! Or am I misreading that.

That breather is clearly metered because it draws air from the large tube after the MAF sensor.
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I’m saying if you installed an aftermarket breather that is exposed to outside air as I’ve seen people do it’s unmetered air as it will draw through that into the PCV on the other side. The stock tube is metered air, yes as it is drawing from behind the MAF, sorry I should have been more specific.
 
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This is from the Ford service manual. The outlet tube refers to the intake tube between the MAF / Throttle body

If the driver side were a vent, it would also have a PCV valve there from the factory and the air would be pulled into the IAC since the throttle body is closed at Idle ( when engine vacuum is highest )

In your current setup; your throttle body plenum is full vacuum- so it's pulling air from the three sources.

Your thoughts.. I think putting vacuum on both valve covers is a good way to suck oil into your engine with at least 20 inches of vacuum.
 
@XR7-4.6 ohhh I see, pretty much since it’s a closed system all that air is accounted for, if it was unmetered it would be technically a vacuum leak?? Makes sense.

@dDUBb sorry for my noobness, this system is pretty new to me. So I found this diagram, Driver side cover inlet gets air from the intake tube, goes through the whole engine, then it exits through the PCV valve and into the plenum.

So since I have boost running through the intake tube, it’s just forcing air into the crankcase via the routing of the air/oil separator. So as you said my best bet would be to add a check valve on the hose that goes from the intake tube to the separator to not allow boost to enter it and pressurize the whole system.

At this point I’m going to eliminate that air/oil separator and run it kind of like stock with the exception of the check valve on the driver side.

Never new this would be such a big deal haha and I definitely don’t wanna oil in my intake 😂
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Chingon1 said:
At this point I’m going to eliminate that air/oil separator and run it kind of like stock with the exception of the check valve on the driver side.
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Because of the nature of your MAF inside the pressurized line .. your setup needs a custom spring loaded check valve that stays open until boost pressure builds.

A regular check valve / PCV isn't made to work that way. It works because intake manifold vacuum pulls it open - and when the manifold is boosted, it shuts. It is actually meant for just in case a backfire event occurs in the intake manifold.

Your only other option is to make it an unmetered air source either on the air filter side of the SC or an open air breather - and then adjust your tune settings at idle for either setup.
 
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@dDUBb i see, I’ve looked online and found a few 1/2” spring loaded check valves but do you have any recommendations or are they all pretty much the same?? I need to get this sucker running asap. I drove it a bit earlier last week and I’m stupid pumped, the BOV and charger sound dope haha
 
Chingon1 said:
@dDUBb i see, I’ve looked online and found a few 1/2” spring loaded check valves but do you have any recommendations or are they all pretty much the same?? I need to get this sucker running asap. I drove it a bit earlier last week and I’m stupid pumped, the BOV and charger sound dope haha
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I would look for something that'll hold up to your boost pressure. Are they rated for any specific operation ? Like anything above atmospheric pressure that would close the valve ? Or what kind of pressure are getting in the charged intake tube at idle?
 
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