Where in the hell are the washers?

[LukesCougar]

OEM sleeves are going to be the hard part. I think I mentioned it earlier, but TBSC used to sell their own version of the OEM two piece sleeves. You can try to hit them up if you want. Maybe they still have some. I am just going to run my DOM sleeves when I do mine.

DOM ? dorman?

 

[KevinVarnes]

Drawn Over Mandrel. Just seamless tubing. Don't recall the size off the top of my head. Still have them in my pole barn.

 

[Kidd-7]

I’ll try to look through my parts bin. I used the TBSC sleeves, but I’m pretty sure my stock ones were still good.

 

[LukesCougar]

I’ll try to look through my parts bin. I used the TBSC sleeves, but I’m pretty sure my stock ones were still good.

id be a happy buyer if they are good and you want to part ways. Otherwise the DOM tubing sounds like a good bet

 

[LukesCougar]

Im seeing kits sold with 70mm length sleeves, but i take it these improved design/ or even the ones that claim to be natural rubber will differ with hardware?

 

[LukesCougar]

@XR7-4.6


Stripped passenger side strut rod.

The intermittent binding (when parts are dry) happens when I turn right and then back to center as the weight transfers.

The rain clunk feels just like the moog failure, but I was almost wondering if it's just these threads going for a ride in the rain

 

[LukesCougar]

I’ll try to look through my parts bin. I used the TBSC sleeves, but I’m pretty sure my stock ones were still good.

Dont the factory originals have a lip on them? i dont think i have ever actually seen the 2 piece originals

Would the ferrule/ sleeve in the natural rubber bushings like Mevotech original grade/ precision chassis be a good reference for length/ id and od?

 

[LukesCougar]

I chatted with bill, and tbsc a little.

edit: he had some sleeves laying around? supposedly theyre the same length as the oem ones tbsc made

 

[Kidd-7]

Here’s a pic of the bushings I got from Rockauto. I should be reusing the sleeves and washers I have so these will be available.

 

[LukesCougar]

Those look promising. Aside from the split sleeve. I think i ordered the same or similar for reference.

also. i recorded some videos underneath my bird. i think i have isolated what side the popping is coming from but the video doesnt seem to confirm anything else. i assumed it would of been coming from the mangled thread side, but its not.

tried taking the same video on that side and it wasnt nearly as loud/ sounded to be coming from my side

It also to me seems like an inlink popping, becuase the noise is happening right as the tie rod comes out to full range.. yet i have driven without inlinks to hear the same pop, and my rack, tie rods, and outer tie rods are all brand spanking new. this is really driving me nuts cause even when im probably staring at the source of my issue i cant see it.

the upper control arm has rotation correct?

 

[LukesCougar]

Also, ended up ordering another set of sleeves from bill. supposedly theyre the same length and size as the ones tbsc made. i didnt need them, but if he is speaking the truth on them being the same length as the tbsc sleeves ill end up using them for the factory bushings and just sell the others with the poly kit

 

[KevinVarnes]

Seems like you are getting close. What is the camera mounted to in that video? You can see it move when the suspension pops. More videos of the suspension on that side. You should be able to see the joint that is binding up.

 

[LukesCougar]

Seems like you are getting close. What is the camera mounted to in that video? You can see it move when the suspension pops. More videos of the suspension on that side. You should be able to see the joint that is binding up.

Lower control arm, drivers side.

 

[LukesCougar]

Im going to get a better video if im able, and revisit removing the inlinks again since the rack and other things that had play are new and tight.

Im still not sure what im gonna do about the strut rods but i think for ride quality im gonna throw in the used oem originals i got, and keep the poly around for spares, but with one side being stripped pretty good im gonna source a new strut rod before i throw the factory bushings in

Is this a job i can do on ramps? im not super concerned with alignment if i can get it close enough for a mile or so drive. i would be driving it to a shop shortly after

 

[Grog6]

I've replaced many, but you need jackstands; the wheels can't be on something when you remove them.
Mark the position of the cams on the lca mount; that's as close as you'll get. But it will be wrong, lol.

 

[LukesCougar]

i do have some jack stands, not sure if i trust them getting under. worst case ill have new mech do it

Heavy raining here today, and yet again i have a pop every time i hit the brakes and let off, and a more persistent clunk turning right then back to center.

i wonder if the sway bar link would pop hard enough to make the phone shake. it would be the 3rd time ive removed them/ replaced them, and the first time was not fun at all because they were both seized, but if its not the strut rods i feel like it has to be them.

if it is, ive been messing with the strut rods for no reason, but the last time i removed them it did still have a bad steering rack, and outer tie rods. so i may revisit incase im confusing 2 different pops/clunks.

 

[LukesCougar]

something i have been thinking about though is all my joints are newish or brand new, no exposed ones either all the boots are mint.

since my pop gets worse in the rain it would have to be something that is exposed to weather no?

(aka poly bushings not happy in the rain???) I would say the anti seize application the shop did was moderate at best, and i put some silicone lube on there and im not sure that made anything better, if anything i feel like since ive started messing with the strut rods myself, retorquing them, its only popped more, but atleast im still pointing in a fair direction. i think. or im losing my mind slowly.

hopefully when this new mech is free again i can have him take a good test drive and only stop when the damn thing pops lol. Was gonna have it rechecked and aligned last week but i got sick and he was packed anyways

 

[LukesCougar]

Found a set of oem original strut rod bushings for the frame.

Gonna see if the old shop by any chance has the original sleeves/ washers.

If not I was gonna use a sleeve from bill and shorten it if needed, but he talked like it was the same length as dlfs sleeve. Without the lips on the end.

How will a solid sleeve without the factory flanges on the ends preform with the oem busbings?

 

[Zep5.0]

Have you been able to tell if it's truly been better at any point during this journey?

I just ask that as I'm wondering if it's something altogether unrelated. Are you always on the brakes when it occurs? Any odd braking feel?

What are you running for wheels and tires. There's not a chance tires are contacting the upper control arm/spindle, is there?

Other random thought, but I know there have been folks with cracks in the fire wall. Flexing metal that's rubbing could cause a nose like this.

 

[LukesCougar]

Have you been able to tell if it's truly been better at any point during this journey?

I just ask that as I'm wondering if it's something altogether unrelated. Are you always on the brakes when it occurs? Any odd braking feel?

What are you running for wheels and tires. There's not a chance tires are contacting the upper control arm/spindle, is there?

Other random thought, but I know there have been folks with cracks in the fire wall. Flexing metal that's rubbing could cause a nose like this.

I am running 235 55r17s, but i see no way it would make contact.

Really aside from inlinks i still think it has something to do with strut rods, but its not the stripped threads, that would be passenger side and the noise is barely audible on that side, and mech cleaned them up and was able to get stuff tight

I have really been considering inlinks again, because with how this pop likes to play hide and seek. im not really sure if it went away or stayed removing them, but other things have been replaced since. they were one of the first things i replaced too and i had to fight to get the old ones off.

The noise only happens under load, when the weight shifts hitting a pot hole or entering my driveway. i cant replicate it winding around in a level lot. Whatever pivots gets stuck, and then sets itself free when im on level ground or the car is sailing straight.

Atleast the intermittent noise is like that. Which i wouldnt be suprised if it is something else. inlinks that i overlooked or maybe the uca

however, In the rain i have a persistent popping that feels just like when the last shop had to "shim" the strut rod bushings. just a clunk/ pop every time i hit the brakes and let off, and it also sounds louder on the drivers side. So i guess my brain keeps tying the noises together, but both of the exact same noises have happened to varying degrees ever since having the old shop redo the front.


When they shimmed the moog bushings that were replaced under warrenty the car got tigther, the persistent popping went away but i still had the same rain clunk, and intermittent popping. same with the lincoln continentals.

 

[LukesCougar]

Have you been able to tell if it's truly been better at any point during this journey?

I just ask that as I'm wondering if it's something altogether unrelated. Are you always on the brakes when it occurs? Any odd braking feel?

What are you running for wheels and tires. There's not a chance tires are contacting the upper control arm/spindle, is there?

Other random thought, but I know there have been folks with cracks in the fire wall. Flexing metal that's rubbing could cause a nose like this.

I would seriously say though, the best its ever felt in terms of pops and stuff binding up was driving the car home when i first bought it lol!

Issues started after the very first job when the strut rod bushings exploded, i had also had shocks, ucas, and lcas done at the same time. I did my inlinks first thing prior to the big jobs, but no issues after doing them specifically.

 

[Kidd-7]

What calipers do you have up front? The brakes on most of my Fords over the years liked to stick a little when wet or at least grab tighter.
The PBR calipers tend to sit a little loose and can knock at times. If your caliper is sticking a little it could be worse when wet and what you're hearing is the caliper "popping" free when releasing the brakes.

 

[LukesCougar]

What calipers do you have up front? The brakes on most of my Fords over the years liked to stick a little when wet or at least grab tighter.
The PBR calipers tend to sit a little loose and can knock at times. If your caliper is sticking a little it could be worse when wet and what you're hearing is the caliper "popping" free when releasing the brakes.

stock oem original for an lx i believe. sadly no sport brakes here. yet.

how can i diagnose this? retorquing the brake caliber mounting bolts? or what damage should i be looking for

i did have to tear the brakes apart and lubricate things awhile back, on that side too, but nothing seemed out of the norm apart from the shop that installed them applied 0 lubricant. my squeal went away and nothing changed as far as this pop goes

 

[bowez]

Bit of clarification? Are the aftermarket (RA) sleves the same dimension as the FoMoCo? What about TBSC/SCP? Any body have specs? ID/OD and OAL?

While I can't make them personally anymore I have other options available for very small batches.

 

[LukesCougar]

Bit of clarification? Are the aftermarket (RA) sleves the same dimension as the FoMoCo? What about TBSC/SCP? Any body have specs? ID/OD and OAL?

While I can't make them personally anymore I have other options available for very small batches.

I would also be curious.

I have washers, and the bushings. all i need is the sleeve.

I ordered a set of the RA ones, they seem to be the same in any other kit. not sure though. Theyre too long for the oem bushings i have on my desk and seem too small. Pretty loosey goosey i could drop the split sleeve through the 2 bushings.

If the rain would quit i could pull one of the sleeves bill supplied and see what the difference is between them. he claimed that they were the same dimension as the sleeve tbsc supplied minus the flanges?

edit: in his poly kit.

 

[LukesCougar]

With sleeve against washer/ jam nut. Wasn't able to do do more than look at them like this, but I do remember the sleeve sitting flush with the bushings as they came in the kit. I think the room I have here is made by the frame and the lip on it. Will come back to this when I actually do the strut rods


And here is the same sleeve sitting inside the original bushings. Sits flush end to end so I would assume a similar amount of room if they were on the car

 

[XR7-4.6]

Alright to help things here I dig out my old original sleeves I kept because I can’t throw anything away lol



One side separated easy, the other side seized together and I had to grind the lip off to get the washer off, nevertheless this is effectively literally the frozen in time length of the factory sleeve/washer length



Mind you the factory sleeve(s) go through the factory washers, so this is the total length WITH washers. Aftermarket sleeves/washers butt up against each other, so if you have that type with washers with an ID the size of the strut rod rather than the sleeve, the sleeve needs to be shortened by the thickness of the two washers

 

[LukesCougar]

Alright to help things here I dig out my old original sleeves I kept because I can’t throw anything away lol



One side separated easy, the other side seized together and I had to grind the lip off to get the washer off, nevertheless this is effectively literally the frozen in time length of the factory sleeve/washer length



Mind you the factory sleeve(s) go through the factory washers, so this is the total length WITH washers. Aftermarket sleeves/washers butt up against each other, so if you have that type with washers with an ID the size of the strut rod rather than the sleeve, the sleeve needs to be shortened by the thickness of the two washers

I will have to check that.

I think if dimensions are the same od the sleeve would pass through the washers and be in direct contact with the jam nut and the front nut no? The od of bills sleeves for the poly kit snuggly fit the id of the strut rod bushings, but its no fight at all getting them in

Edit: also is there any issues with this? can i run a sleeve without the lips on the end? i would assume theyre there for this exact reason

 

[XR7-4.6]

I will have to check that.

I think if dimensions are the same od the sleeve would pass through the washers and be in direct contact with the jam nut and the front nut no? The od of bills sleeves for the poly kit snuggly fit the id of the strut rod bushings, but its no fight at all getting them in

Edit: also is there any issues with this? can i run a sleeve without the lips on the end? i would assume theyre there for this exact reason

The lips are mainly there to hold the washers on during assembly IMO Without them yes the sleeve will be butted up against the nut but it doesn’t really matter whether it’s butted up against a nut or butted up against a washer in the end, especially with the sleeve you have being a thicker material than the OEM sleeves were, the ones you showed won’t deform.

 

[XR7-4.6]

View attachment 18609
With sleeve against washer/ jam nut. Wasn't able to do do more than look at them like this, but I do remember the sleeve sitting flush with the bushings as they came in the kit. I think the room I have here is made by the frame and the lip on it. Will come back to this when I actually do the strut rods

That’s about the depth you want with those bushings OFF car. It they’re flush off car the sleeve is definitely too long. I can’t get pics of mine as they’re installed but I have a good recollection of that.