Where in the hell are the washers?

That’s about the depth you want with those bushings OFF car. It they’re flush off car the sleeve is definitely too long. I can’t get pics of mine as they’re installed but I have a good recollection of that.
My sleeve is also 73mm end to end ? Bill said his sleeve was the same dimensionally to tbsc sleeves, and zinc coated. if it means anything where it sits.
Maybe i am speaking incorrectly here. i do apoligize, or my memory is poor. I do feel like the poly stuck out just a bit more, but from my recollection when i had them off the car they sat pretty well flush. at most like an 1/8"
 
I take it this means i could run this sleeve? i have the oem washers.
 
I take it this means i could run this sleeve? i have the oem washers.

It depends on what bushings you intend to run them with, with stock style bushings the 73mm sleeve should be perfect, with the polys I’m not so sure as I’m fairly certain they aren’t the same length assembled
 
It depends on what bushings you intend to run them with, with stock style bushings the 73mm sleeve should be perfect, with the polys I’m not so sure as I’m fairly certain they aren’t the same length assembled
That is what i may of been wrong about. i felt like the sleeve set flush inside them though. maybe not. when i have them off the car ill check that again
 
If you don't compress those bushings enough, you'll have a clunk, every time you brake.
 
If you don't compress those bushings enough, you'll have a clunk, every time you brake.
i believe i experienced that when the last shop had to do something with the bushings to get them tight? it felt about like when the bushings first exploded, little less harsh but still the same pop over bumps and braking
 
removed inlinks.. again.. popped the second i came into the drive. so its not them.
ive also had 2 different lcas with the same issue, and the steering rack, and tie rods are brand new.

i also checked my brakes. nothing seems loose or out of the ordinary

Would an upper control arm cause a pop when turning/ intermittently on bumps/ braking? its one of the things they did when doing the strut rods, and the pop has been there since

like literally everything is brand new aside from the ucas which are roughly a year old, and the shocks but i dont see how they could be causing it.
inlinks arent new, but are now again out of the question. i feel like a mad man even putting myself through removing them the 3rd

I would also note i have tried resetting my lca bolts at ride height, and looking for loose bolts. i really think the only thing it could be is the strut rods or ucas.. only the damaged strut rod is not the side that is popping, and it doesnt make sense to me that it wouldnt be something else now since its only happening on the one side. I believe the rain clunk i was hearing was mostly on the drivers side aswell, because it felt to be infront of my feet and sounded louder on that side

edit: tomorrow hopefully im going to attempt to record the strut rod at the control arm side too, and the upper control arm and lca, 3 separate videos. if that doesnt reveal anything i might piss on it and hope that fixes something XD
 
removed inlinks.. again.. popped the second i came into the drive. so its not them.
ive also had 2 different lcas with the same issue, and the steering rack, and tie rods are brand new.

i also checked my brakes. nothing seems loose or out of the ordinary

Would an upper control arm cause a pop when turning/ intermittently on bumps/ braking? its one of the things they did when doing the strut rods, and the pop has been there since

like literally everything is brand new aside from the ucas which are roughly a year old, and the shocks but i dont see how they could be causing it.
inlinks arent new, but are now again out of the question. i feel like a mad man even putting myself through removing them the 3rd

I would also note i have tried resetting my lca bolts at ride height, and looking for loose bolts. i really think the only thing it could be is the strut rods or ucas.. only the damaged strut rod is not the side that is popping, and it doesnt make sense to me that it wouldnt be something else now since its only happening on the one side. I believe the rain clunk i was hearing was mostly on the drivers side aswell, because it felt to be infront of my feet and sounded louder on that side

edit: tomorrow hopefully im going to attempt to record the strut rod at the control arm side too, and the upper control arm and lca, 3 separate videos. if that doesnt reveal anything i might piss on it and hope that fixes something XD


So just to be clear which bushings and sleeves are you running right now? Still the polys?
 
yes, but i had the same issue with the moogs too

Ok that’s what I figured but wasn’t sure if you were swapping bushings around in all this.

Anyway it occurred to me I could measure my assembled continental polys and determine the sleeve length by subtracting the washer thicknesses; both are 1/8” so subtracting 1/4” (6.35mm) from this measurement…

IMG_9232.jpeg

Makes my sleeve for those same bushings 70.95mm long

So if the sleeve in your SCP kit for them is 73.2mm that makes them 2.3mm(about 3/23”) longer than the sleeve the bushings were designed for, and that might be just enough slack to cause a clunk IMO
 
Ok that’s what I figured but wasn’t sure if you were swapping bushings around in all this.

Anyway it occurred to me I could measure my assembled continental polys and determine the sleeve length by subtracting the washer thicknesses; both are 1/8” so subtracting 1/4” (6.35mm) from this measurement…

View attachment 18658

Makes my sleeve for those same bushings 70.95mm long

So if the sleeve in your SCP kit for them is 73.2mm that makes them 2.3mm(about 3/23”) longer than the sleeve the bushings were designed for, and that might be just enough slack to cause a clunk IMO
I don't disagree with this logic, but what stoops me is it happened with the moogs too, with the sleeve moog supplies. I'm still considering the possibility that it is something else like an upper control arm or my brakes, but I guess I'm just not very good at diagnosis here. I haven't gotten around to taking more videos, but hopefully the next day I'm off work I will.
 
Also. Similar topic, because I'm going back to oem bushings for ride quality.

I ordered the retainers/ washers for the oem bushings I got, and they sent me just like a whole pack of them in the original Ford packaging.

To anyone looking for these, please let me know lol
 
I'll take a set, I'm a pack rat and you never know when you might need something! :rofl:

Joe
Dm me, i have an oddball number of them. Id send ya a set and an extra of the front/ rear retainer
 
Do you have the sleeves too or just the washers? They used to sell it as a complete kit with the bushings and sleeves and I think washers too.
No sleeves. I dont think ive seen an original sleeve myself before. couldnt find anything on ebay, tbsc, or scp
 
Ok that’s what I figured but wasn’t sure if you were swapping bushings around in all this.

Anyway it occurred to me I could measure my assembled continental polys and determine the sleeve length by subtracting the washer thicknesses; both are 1/8” so subtracting 1/4” (6.35mm) from this measurement…

View attachment 18658

Makes my sleeve for those same bushings 70.95mm long

So if the sleeve in your SCP kit for them is 73.2mm that makes them 2.3mm(about 3/23”) longer than the sleeve the bushings were designed for, and that might be just enough slack to cause a clunk IMO
I am now confused, because my setup is actually slightly shorter. washer to washer it measured 76.2.. so 69.85 mm???? to be fair.. i measured the sleeve with a straight ruler, i only now have a caliper in hand.

or im shit with using a caliper aswell as a ruler lol. gonna try and get a picture like yours
 
also. the pop when braking/raining only happens when going forward, never backward like when the bushings exploded...

does this point to anything in particular? Like the front bushing specifically since it would take the brunt load on braking? Again i have the lipped sleeve on back, and i know they are effectively one piece once installed but would there not be a bit more clamping force on the front nut? better centering of the rod if its near the end of the assembly?

another reason this comes to mind is the lip on the frame. if a flat bushing it sitting on that lip wouldnt it effectively become a plane that can slip or pivot? just in my mind even though they become one piece the flat bushing would still belong on the non tapered/ lipless frame side for more contact, and then lip inside lip on the front...?
 
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Edit: for better description of what I think is happening.

I do not have a full understanding of how our suspensions work, but this is specifically what comes to mind when it's clunking in the rain. With a flat bushing on the front how can it pivot without slipping off the lip?

Im open and ready to being wrong, but it just keeps bugging me and I don't know what else would be taking in water and causing said issue. All the joints have their boots, everything is tight to my knowledge and I have torqued the poly bushings til they bottomed the sleeve. I also took many videos under the car, and it doesn't look like anything is moving aside from the strut rod shaking a bit. Again leading me to believe it is just binding or slipping on that lip when the weight shifts on turns or when rain creeps in and i proceed to hit the brakes
 

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I would also clarify, i havent gotten the chance to swap bushings around myself, but i had the same issue with the moogs, and considering the scp instructions show the lipped bushing upfront i wouldnt be suprised if they had them backwards aswell. They obviously didnt read that shit.....


however, bill agrees with xr7. the poly should become one piece and no issues there, but it still makes me wonder. I see the logic, and im not trying to call foul. this is just all i can think of.
 
I REALLY do apoligize for the spam, but the moogs that didn't explode were infact reversed !!!!!

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Long shot and not likely your issue, but you don't happen to have a broken coil spring do you? Not uncommon for the front springs to break off the last coil near the bottom. Just thinking out loud.
 

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