1996 Cougar XR7, all the issues.

OilBurner2003 said:
Update: Door is fixed. Works like a charm, decided to do spark plugs and wires. The wires I knew were bad, but the plugs..Holy shit. I’ve never seen them so bad. And I wondered why I had misfires😂 Got 4 done, it’s a painful process. I have to blow out each spark plug hole before I take it out 4 times with compressed air, then it starts to look clean. It’ll be started within the hour. Picked up some platinum plugs
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Double platinum?
 
I changed out a set years ago; copper plugs, which get eaten by our ignition in about 10k miles. :) I started getting a misfire, and the entire ground electrode was gone, lol. It's about a.120 gap to the ring, and it had eaten most of the center electrode out, and broken the insulator. It finally wore so far down into the insulator, it finally started missing, lol. These cars, you really don't want to find a leaky plug wire with your hand, lol. They had almost 50k miles on them, from my logbook. :) Double platinum will last 100k mi. Single platinum get eaten the same way as copper, as do the iridium plugs I bought, 'cause they only had iridium on one side. :) Whichever side doesn't have it, wears away in 10k. The guy that designed the ignition must have owned a 70's 2 stroke dirt bike, and said "This car will not foul plugs ever!
 
Grog6 said:
I changed out a set years ago; copper plugs, which get eaten by our ignition in about 10k miles. :) I started getting a misfire, and the entire ground electrode was gone, lol. It's about a.120 gap to the ring, and it had eaten most of the center electrode out, and broken the insulator. It finally wore so far down into the insulator, it finally started missing, lol. These cars, you really don't want to find a leaky plug wire with your hand, lol. They had almost 50k miles on them, from my logbook. :) Double platinum will last 100k mi. Single platinum get eaten the same way as copper, as do the iridium plugs I bought, 'cause they only had iridium on one side. :) Whichever side doesn't have it, wears away in 10k. The guy that designed the ignition must have owned a 70's 2 stroke dirt bike, and said "This car will not foul plugs ever!
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Just finished. Sounds and feels great. Little bit of a stumble, nothing that can’t be fixed after i check everything fuel related. Fixing this random belt squeak too lol
 
Both of the pullies are the same 90mm pulley. You unbolt the tensioner, and you can change the pulley. I've had a squeaky alternator; after about 400k miles, lol.
 
Grog6 said:
Both of the pullies are the same 90mm pulley. You unbolt the tensioner, and you can change the pulley. I've had a squeaky alternator; after about 400k miles, lol.
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Update: It was the belt. I’ll need a new water pump, feels kinda stiff. However, what a great drive today. Took it out, hit the highway, did beautifully. I got a P1401 code, trouble shooting that currently.
 
the sensor on the back of the engine has two tubes that run down to the egr tube.They are sensing the pressure drop across an orifice welded into the tube, between the two tiny tubes that stick out. When I had that code, the orifice was blocked. Don't break the egr tube; they went out of stock in the 90's That's the dpfe, differential pressure feedback for EGR sensor. It measures the flow in the egr.
 
Vicinity said:
Nice. How often and how long was the belt squeak?
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Unless the car was completely warmed up, it squeaked all the time. Even then sometimes it came back lol, I’m sure there’s a pulley or two that has some factor in it, but the belt was the main part
 
OilBurner2003 said:
Unless the car was completely warmed up, it squeaked all the time. Even then sometimes it came back lol, I’m sure there’s a pulley or two that has some factor in it, but the belt was the main part
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Update: after driving it for a total of 150 miles, I’ve noticed that there’s a clunk when shifting, and when downshifting. Now, I am aware that the transmission could very well be on its way out soon. But I’m gonna replace the trans filter, get some better fluid, and see what happens.
 
GRWeldon said:
You are fortunate to have a selection on MN12s in your area. I'm not so fortunate in that respect. What state do you live in?
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Currently Washington. There’s a few birds and cougars around here, luckily. Even found a 4.6 with 100K miles out of the engine bay!
 
OilBurner2003 said:
Currently Washington. There’s a few birds and cougars around here, luckily. Even found a 4.6 with 100K miles out of the engine bay!
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To clarify, it’s Mercon V transmission fluid that I’m supposed to use? Doin a filter and fluid change. Fluids also low, so replacing gasket because of all that.
 
theterminator93 said:
By the book, an empty trans, converter, and heat exchanger takes 12 quarts to fill.

When I do a drain/refill (without dropping the VB etc.) I usually only get about 10 out/in.
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Roger roger. Thanks! Gonna wait for the gasket to get here.
 
OilBurner2003 said:
Roger roger. Thanks! Gonna wait for the gasket to get here.
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Make sure you use the Original style pan gasket. No other is worth the cost or effort.
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
If you drain your torque converter, mark the position of the drain plug on the crankshaft pulley. It'll make it much easier the next time you drain it.
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Well, uh…This is unexpected. Saw this after pulling the pan.
 

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MadMikeyL said:
The plug doesn’t concern me as much as the long piece of what looks like a snap ring that is caught on the magnet. I think that trans has to come out and be gone thr
MadMikeyL said:
The plug doesn’t concern me as much as the long piece of what looks like a snap ring that is caught on the magnet. I think that trans has to come out and be gone through.
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**** lol, it’s always something. Yeah, upon looking I figured that wasn’t too good. Here I Am with all this new fluid gaskets and shit. Well, I guess I’ll put it back together and put it behind the shed for now. Do I need to put that plug back in place?
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