96 Xr7, what’s the best way to tow it on a dollie?

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OilBurner2003

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NUNYA.
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1996 cougar XR7, 4.6 v8
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Hey guys, me again.

Cougar has to be towed 1500 miles. I don’t have a flat bed, I have a car Dollie. The one where you put two wheels on it.

I’ve never towed a car that long, so I’m wondering what’s the best way to do it.
Do I disconnect the drive shaft from the diff, or do I have other options? I doubt putting it in neutral is even a option, I can’t think of a reason how that’d be good. For that distance at least.

Any advice helps! Thanks!
 
Yeah, you don't want to neutral the trans and pull it with the driveshaft still turning the trans. It will still be spinning portions of the planetary and there won't be any lubrication.

Best way is to unbolt the driveshaft from the diff and tow it using the front wheels so it tracks straight.
 
theterminator93 said:
Yeah, you don't want to neutral the trans and pull it with the driveshaft still turning the trans. It will still be spinning portions of the planetary and there won't be any lubrication.

Best way is to unbolt the driveshaft from the diff and tow it using the front wheels so it tracks straight.
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Damn. Haven’t removed the drive shaft yet on it, it’s just four bolts and it comes out, right?
 
12mm box-head wrench to remove the bolts, then just slide it forward off the pinion flange. You won't be able to fully remove the drive shaft unless you lower the gas tank, but you should still be able to use use a piece of wire or something to hold it forward so it doesn't slide back and rub against the pinion during transit. There should be enough play in the transmission tail shaft for you to slide if about an inch forward.
 
theterminator93 said:
12mm box-head wrench to remove the bolts, then just slide it forward off the pinion flange. You won't be able to fully remove the drive shaft unless you lower the gas tank, but you should still be able to use use a piece of wire or something to hold it forward so it doesn't slide back and rub against the pinion during transit. There should be enough play in the transmission tail shaft for you to slide if about an inch forward.
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Awesome! Thank you so much! I’ll get right on it.
 
Can you put the rear wheels on the dolly and strap the steering wheel to hold it straight?

Also, when I towed my Bird home, a U-Haul car hauler rental was only $100 a day.
 
It will kill the trans in a heartbeat, towing it on the rear wheels, without disconnecting it. Nothing gets lube. It's all bronze bushings on steel. :) And the torringtons are going to grenade, spitting tiny needle bearings throughout. It only takes a short tow to kill one. My local transmission guy loves trans go, but I traded info with him on my transmissions. He showed me a TC trans that his brother brought him, from another shop. His bro runs the tow service, and other brother runs an alignment shop. :) Good people. He showed me the carnage; it was towed home from west knoxville, maybe 20 miles. There was nothing usable in it; a lot of the metal shavings fell into the vb. I wouldn't have touched it; if it was for some customer, I'd start with a jy one, lol.
 
Derp, I've seen a guy tow a mustang by tying the steering wheel in place, so it would move a bit, and tow it from the rear. It supposedly allows the wheels to track, but IDK. It was headed to a jy.
 
Grog6 said:
Derp, I've seen a guy tow a mustang by tying the steering wheel in place, so it would move a bit, and tow it from the rear. It supposedly allows the wheels to track, but IDK. It was headed to a jy.
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Decided to just undo the driveshaft. Easiest way I believe
 
That's what I would do. Those bolts are not easy to get out; a 12mm wrench is too short, and my cheater bar won't go in there. :) I ended up buying a long 12mm box end.
If a socket would go in, it would be no biggie, but nothing I have will fit.
 
Grog6 said:
That's what I would do. Those bolts are not easy to get out; a 12mm wrench is too short, and my cheater bar won't go in there. :) I ended up buying a long 12mm box end.
If a socket would go in, it would be no biggie, but nothing I have will fit.
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Ancient grease monkey secret😉

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Grog6 said:
I do that too. I was just hoping there was a better way that I was missing.
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If you ever have a diff built or rebuilt you can have it assembled with the F150 companion flange and matching yoke. It's a larger diameter than the stock one and you can get a regular socket over the bolts. I never particularly found the double wrench thing all that difficult, so I still use that tool on my car even though I don't have to.
 
OilBurner2003 said:
Hey guys, me again.

Cougar has to be towed 1500 miles. I don’t have a flat bed, I have a car Dollie. The one where you put two wheels on it.

I’ve never towed a car that long, so I’m wondering what’s the best way to do it.
Do I disconnect the drive shaft from the diff, or do I have other options? I doubt putting it in neutral is even a option, I can’t think of a reason how that’d be good. For that distance at least.

Any advice helps! Thanks!
Click to expand...
Leaving in 24 hours, to the other side of the country to stay. Hope they got some good part stores in WA.
 
OilBurner2003 said:
Leaving in 24 hours, to the other side of the country to stay. Hope they got some good part stores in WA.
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Safe travels, God speed.

Welcome to WA! Unfortunately, sorry but no, there is not much in the way of MN12 parts around here. Unless you get a donor car.
 
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