ABS Delete

Thunderstruck95

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S.W. Michigan
Vehicle Details
1995 Thunderbird 4.6
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My 95 Thunderbird has factory ABS and I want to remove the system to lose weight and simplify things. My master cylinder has two lines coming off it and a hose bringing fluid down to the pump.
Can I simply put T's on both lines and find a suitable plug for the fluid line? (I would plan on using the factory pressure regulators/ restrictors that are behind the drivers tire and run to the back)
Is there a pressure switch anywhere that is needed to run taillights or signal the EEC?
 
I know someone else out there will chime in with more details, but IIRC you need the non-ABS master cylinder and the correct proportioning valve to do the setup properly. The brake on/off switch at the top of the pedal is already set up for the taillights and cruise control deactivation.
 
The inline devices in the drivers wheelwell are 'residual pressure valves.' They would keep the master from draining out a wheel line if there was a break in the line. The proportioning valve is the block at the drivers' front frame rail. The brakes are split rt front, and left rear on the primary master section, and the other two are the secondary master; primary is toward the booster, sec is at the end of the master.
 
You don't need to change the master cylinder, but you do need to either change the reservior to the non-abs type or add a plug to the bottom to block off the pump return. I'm doing the same thing but I'm using the OEM proportioning valve in front of the battery.
 
I'd find a donor car at the junkyard. Get the proportioning valve and the lines you need. Then it would be straightforward.
 
Are non ABS cars all the same 89-97? What about rear drum vs disk?
 
Are non ABS cars all the same 89-97? What about rear drum vs disk?

Drum vs disc has a different proportioning valve. V6 vs V8 after 1993 had 4 port vs 2 port master cylinders, up to 96, after that they all used 2 port masters.

Edit: Oh and the 4 porters didn't use the same proportioning valve as the 2 porters, they were right off the master cylinder rather than remote like on ABS cars with them at the wheelwell fittings and 2 porters with it in front of the battery

IIRC

An ABS 93+ can be directly converted no non ABS just swapping the V8 engine compartment lines(two from master to prop valve, two from prop valve to each front caliper, two from prop valve to rear lines at the fittings in the wheelwell) and adding the proportioning valve ideally from a 96-97 rear disc car. That's what I'm doing and @supergordo is suggesting.

4 port V6 non-ABS

1709591337686.png


2 port V8 non-ABS

1709591725214.png


2 port prop valve

1709591831080.png

And this is what you’d need to convert a ABS system to non-ABS using factory components(minus the springs lol)

IMG_2786.jpeg
 
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Are the non ABS V8 parts hard to come by? I was looking for a 2 port non ABS master few years ago because I thought mine was bad, but it ended up being something else. I couldn't find one either new or rebuild.
 
Thanks for all the info guys.
I just ordered a non ABS prop valve setup from TBSC. I’ll try making my own lines and plugging my existing master cylinder reservoir.
 
Are the non ABS V8 parts hard to come by? I was looking for a 2 port non ABS master few years ago because I thought mine was bad, but it ended up being something else. I couldn't find one either new or rebuild.

The two port masters are the same regardless of ABS, the 4 port ones use a 1" bore, 2 port are 1-1/16" The only real difference between the ABS ones is the reservoir which just swaps over
 

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