AJE K member raises engine

JacobM03

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Ontario
Vehicle Details
1992 Thunderbird Sport 5.0
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I installed an AJE K member in my 92 tbird with the 5.0 and it seemed like it raised the engine quite a bit, I took some mesurements from the frame where the k member sits and the mounts on the engine and it mesures about 2 inches taller than the stock K member!

I wanted to check it out as right now im pretty sure the hood won’t clear my distributor cap nor my 95 mustang alternator upgrade!

I tried contacting AJE about this and of course they aren’t emailing back.

So what should I do about this? Should I space down the k member 2 whole inches? Would this make a big change in the suspension geometry and handling and steering? Right now the lower and upper A arms are about equal.

I have also contacted someone that had the same issue but with a stockish 4.6 that they had to change the stock hood to clear the engine.
 
That's going to screw up the drive line angles, too. I'd pursue AJE to make it right.
I don’t even know how it would even clear the stock engine, it might but not by very much.
 
Just mesured with the hood indents and it seems like it might clear but will be very very close, so maybe I will have to shim the K member down a bit and not 2 whole inches but still they should write it somewhere that the K member relocates the engine higher.
 
This was always a worry I had with the AJE and even non-OEM motor mounts given my DOHC required K member shims. Driveline angle in particular concern me
 
Well this is not the news I wanted today.
 
Also if you are running the one set of headers that do fit on the 5.0 and clears the steering shaft (I forgot what brand it is) but are 1 5/8 primaries, they dont fit anymore (on the passenger side, trying the driver side soon) you will have to bang up the floor to clear the collector flange if you want any clearance
 

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Its hard to tell what the driveline angle looks like but it doesn’t seem too bad, I took a couple pictures but they aren’t very good as I am laying under the car
 

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Also if you are running the one set of headers that do fit on the 5.0 and clears the steering shaft (I forgot what brand it is) but are 1 5/8 primaries, they dont fit anymore (on the passenger side, trying the driver side soon) you will have to bang up the floor to clear the collector flange if you want any clearance
Driver side clears by about 1/2” so should be good, I guess passenger side is getting the deadblow!
 

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Driver side clears by about 1/2” so should be good, I guess passenger side is getting the deadblow!
Clears the steering shaft by a few thou though, I won’t be supprised if theres any rubbing.
 
We just put one in my buddy's cougar and it was within ¼" of where the engine was sitting beforehand. Also did the steering shaft mod and foxbody 1¾" primary longtubes bolt right in. The 1⅜" sway bar clears as well.
 
Here are some pictures sowing the difference between where the k member sits and the height of the engine mounts.
 
Here are some pictures sowing the difference between where the k member sits and the height of the engine mounts.
Just realised I was mesuring up wrong! There is only about an inch in height difference where the AJE motor mounts make the engine sit higher, I have contacted them and cleared that it does fit with a stock 5.0. They also gave me a part number for motor mounts that sit 5/8 to 3/4 inch lower than the ones provided with the kit, those are AJE 10 R.

So to say there is still an inch in height difference, some aftermarket parts may not clear but stock setup should and they do have an option for lower mounts which im sure you can order when ordering the subframe.
 
Thank you for that. I'll contact them to order the shorter mounts. I may still shim the K down 1/2" to help center of gravity. My Canton oil pan had close to 2" of clearance at the bottom, so no concerns there.
 
Its hard to tell what the driveline angle looks like but it doesn’t seem too bad, I took a couple pictures but they aren’t very good as I am laying under the car
The transmission output and the pinion need to be parallel. If you don't have an angle finder, you can use an app on your smart phone to at least check to see if you're close (angle finders are plenty cheap though).
 

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