Bringing car out of storage

[CDsDontBurn]

My T-Bird has been sitting for like 6yrs and it's been about 4yrs since I last cranked the engine over and let it run to normal operating temperature. In the coming months or so, I will be (finally) moving it into the garage so I can get working on it. The questions I have are:

• Do I need to worry a about any sort of internal engine rust?
• Can I run it for a short period of time with the existing fluids (oil, coolant, ATF)
• What are things I should watch out for not fluid related?
• What are some checklist type items I should do before even thinking of turning the engine on?
• What do I need to concern myself in regards to any remaining fuel in the tank (appx 1/4 tank at last startup)?
• Should I push it into the garage or drive (limp) it into the garage considering the above questions?
  • ATF is currently low, likely dangerously low, should I get some ATF in there before even attempting this as I will be pulling out the AT for rebuild anyway?

The only thing holding me back from getting the T-Bird in the garage is my old dining room table as we got a new set recently and we can't seem to get rid of the old one.

 

[Derphound01]

My T-Bird has been sitting for like 6yrs and it's been about 4yrs since I last cranked the engine over and let it run to normal operating temperature. In the coming months or so, I will be (finally) moving it into the garage so I can get working on it. The questions I have are:

• Do I need to worry a about any sort of internal engine rust?
• Can I run it for a short period of time with the existing fluids (oil, coolant, ATF)
• What are things I should watch out for not fluid related?
• What are some checklist type items I should do before even thinking of turning the engine on?
• What do I need to concern myself in regards to any remaining fuel in the tank (appx 1/4 tank at last startup)?
• Should I push it into the garage or drive (limp) it into the garage considering the above questions?
  • ATF is currently low, likely dangerously low, should I get some ATF in there before even attempting this as I will be pulling out the AT for rebuild anyway?

If all you're doing is getting it running to drive it in the garage, it'll be fine as is. Only thing I would be concerned with would be the fuel. Wouldn't hurt to put some fresh E0 and a bottle of Iso-HEET in it beforehand.

Beyond that, you probably need to check for rodent infestation and wiring damage from that.

The only thing holding me back from getting the T-Bird in the garage is my old dining room table as we got a new set recently and we can't seem to get rid of the old one.

Set it on the curb and post a "Curb Alert: Free to good home" ad on Craigslist. It'll be gone by sunset.

 

[KevinVarnes]

My T-Bird has been sitting for like 6yrs and it's been about 4yrs since I last cranked the engine over and let it run to normal operating temperature. In the coming months or so, I will be (finally) moving it into the garage so I can get working on it. The questions I have are:

The only thing holding me back from getting the T-Bird in the garage is my old dining room table as we got a new set recently and we can't seem to get rid of the old one.

• Do I need to worry a about any sort of internal engine rust?

I would turn the engine over by hand if you are concerned about rust. If it is badly rusted, you are looking at a full rebuild anyway so you won't really be doing much additional damage. That said, I'd bet it is just fine.

• Can I run it for a short period of time with the existing fluids (oil, coolant, ATF)

Should be fine to run on the old fluids to move it into the garage.

• What are things I should watch out for not fluid related?

Locked up brakes are probably the biggest pain. Other than that, if it has been sitting on concrete it is probably fine. Other than that, as Derp mentioned, critters getting into the wiring can be a big hassle. When you first connect a good battery just take minute and listen for any strange noises/smells/smoke.

• What are some checklist type items I should do before even thinking of turning the engine on?

You could prime the oil system to make sure you have oil all throughout the engine before actually starting it. Honestly, if it were mine I might crank it over with fuel and/or spark disabled to build oil pressure and then let it rip.

• What do I need to concern myself in regards to any remaining fuel in the tank (appx 1/4 tank at last startup)?

Could have stuck or sticky injectors from the old fuel. Clogged filters and pickup strainers. Rust on the sending unit in the tank. You can try pumping the tank dry using the fuel pump.

• Should I push it into the garage or drive (limp) it into the garage considering the above questions?
  • ATF is currently low, likely dangerously low, should I get some ATF in there before even attempting this as I will be pulling out the AT for rebuild anyway?

I'd throw some ATF in it and drive it in. You're going to have to start it at some point. The $25 (?) in trans fluid is worth it to me. I hate trying to push cars around.

 

[Jae 'Bird]

I wanna throw my 2¢ in here cause I recall when I first got my car out of storage it had been sitting outside for about 3-4 years, I checked all the fluids, and I added transmission fluid, I checked for rodents nests and then I added some dewatering fuel additive and then started it up with no issues. I would recommend if possible, popping out one of the spark plugs and bore scoping a cylinder to see if there's anything out of the ordinary. If you can get all the plugs out, then some fogging oil would help prevent a dry startup since all the oil is in the pan and drained down but I never did that and it seemed fine, other than that I think you should be good to start it and drive it into your garage. I would def recommend putting as much new fuel in as possible with a dewatering additive as the old fuel will almost certainly be turpentine by this point.

 

[theterminator93]

If you didn't add fuel stabilizer when you parked it, I would consider draining the tank as much as you can and refilling it with fresh fuel. Replace the fuel filter, then add fuel system cleaner and prime the ignition several times to flush out the fuel rail before you try starting it and pushing slime through the injectors. What's in there now is very likely highly oxidized and on its way to gel.

You may want to pop the plug on the oil pan briefly to make sure there's no water/condensation pooled at the bottom as well.

If the transmission is horribly low on ATF, it won't engage any gears. It won't hurt anything to run the engine and cycle through the gears to see if it engages; that's a part of the fluid fill procedure, after all.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

I have zero expertise to contribute, but I find this "reawakening" super exciting! Sounds like a great project!

...maybe one thing, although this may go without saying:

The aforementioned rodents love to build homes in the air filter box. I'd check that before starting the engine.

 

[Grog6]

Mine has been sitting 15 years. I'm pumping out the tank, green/yl wire at inertia sw to +12, replacing the oil, topping up the trans to full cold, rotating it over by hand, feeling for problems,add 3 gallons fresh premium e0 gas,reconnect fuel rail,circulate fresh gas thru fuel rail, then pull fuse 15, and turn it over. I will load my new tune,and start it.
I'm changing the oil due to possible water in the oil from 15 years of condensation in my damp climate, yours is probably fine, in ca. If my trans has issues,I have a better one in the garage. My cooling system is dry, you might want to drain and fill,but I'd wait till it runs.

 

[Derphound01]

I would recommend if possible, popping out one of the spark plugs and bore scoping a cylinder to see if there's anything out of the ordinary. If you can get all the plugs out...

I would not do this on a 1997 4.6 for obvious reasons.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

for obvious reasons.

Please educate the less savvy among us.

 

[Derphound01]

IIRC, the 96-up heads only have three threads in them for spark plugs. If they aren't installed with anti-seize, they'll strip.

 

[XR7-4.6]

4 threads. Just make sure you remove them cold, then stripping them will be an unlikely event even without antisieze.

 

[Jae 'Bird]

IIRC, the 96-up heads only have three threads in them for spark plugs. If they aren't installed with anti-seize, they'll strip.

Ah, yeah I did not know that, don't take my advice for that, I had no idea there was a risk of that. the more you know

 

[White Lincoln]

My T-Bird has been sitting for like 6yrs and it's been about 4yrs since I last cranked the engine over and let it run to normal operating temperature. In the coming months or so, I will be (finally) moving it into the garage so I can get working on it.

Watch Vice Grib Garage and SimonFordMan on YouTube on how they get a car running after sitting for 15 year under years of eastern climits.

It's a basic recipe:
1. Pull the plugs, spray some lubricant down the hole.
2. See if you can get the crank case to turn by hand or wrench.
If it turns,
Put the plugs back in and see if it will start. Go from there on replacing stuff if it rotted or broke over time.

Good luck!

 

[XR7-4.6]

Watch Vice Grib Garage and SimonFordMan on YouTube on how they get a car running after sitting for 15 year under years of eastern climits.

It's a basic recipe:
1. Pull the plugs, spray some lubricant down the hole.
2. See if you can get the crank case to turn by hand or wrench.
If it turns,
Put the plugs back in and see if it will start. Go from there on replacing stuff if it rotted or broke over time.

Good luck!

3. Pretend you didn’t see this or that!

 

[dDUBb]

It'll start just fine with a good battery and some gas added to the tank. The trans leaking might make a mess if it even has enough fluid to move .. no need to do all this other shit just to move it 5 feet and you end up having to push it anyways.

 

[White Lincoln]

3. Pretend you didn’t see this or that!

Exactly!
Or "refurbishing, refurbishing" while he spray paints the part.

And SimonFordMan is just an ASMR for me....

 

[Zep5.0]

Put a baby diaper under the trans where it leaks and then fill it up. That will catch most of what it leaks on the way to the garage. Use tape, rope, etc to hold it up since you're not going far enough to get it on fire.

 

[White Lincoln]

Put a baby diaper under the trans where it leaks and then fill it up. That will catch most of what it leaks on the way to the garage. Use tape, rope, etc to hold it up since you're not going far enough to get it on fire.

A diaper... yeah, that will collect a lot before leaking itself. I bet the bolts are lose on the pan and the seal is leaking.

 

[supergordo]

I'm with Brandon on the fuel. You can unplug the ignition coils and turn the motor over to get oil into everything.

 

[dDUBb]

A diaper... yeah, that will collect a lot before leaking itself. I bet the bolts are lose on the pan and the seal is leaking.

 

[White Lincoln]

That diaper is for big dumps...

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Beyond that, you probably need to check for rodent infestation and wiring damage from that.

I know I've had a couple of wasp nests in my T-Bird. The first one was inside the honeycomb of the grille. The second is somewhere behind the passenger tail lamp. Of course, there's the plethora of black widow spiders as well.

Once it's rolled into the garage, the VERY first thing that will happen will be a Raid bug fogger to kill all those multi-legged critters. Fuck them shits.

Locked up brakes are probably the biggest pain. Other than that, if it has been sitting on concrete it is probably fine

Yeah, she will be needing new pads and rotors. The current rotors have loads (relative to CA) rust on them. They haven't moved in forever.

You could prime the oil system to make sure you have oil all throughout the engine before actually starting it. Honestly, if it were mine I might crank it over with fuel and/or spark disabled to build oil pressure and then let it rip.

This is a great idea!

I'd throw some ATF in it and drive it in. You're going to have to start it at some point. The $25 (?) in trans fluid is worth it to me. I hate trying to push cars around.

If it was leaking from the front pump seal while sitting until it leaked no more, how much ATF would I need to put in? Would 4 quarts do it? Or less?

If you didn't add fuel stabilizer when you parked it, I would consider draining the tank as much as you can and refilling it with fresh fuel. Replace the fuel filter, then add fuel system cleaner and prime the ignition several times to flush out the fuel rail before you try starting it and pushing slime through the injectors. What's in there now is very likely highly oxidized and on its way to gel.

You may want to pop the plug on the oil pan briefly to make sure there's no water/condensation pooled at the bottom as well.

If the transmission is horribly low on ATF, it won't engage any gears. It won't hurt anything to run the engine and cycle through the gears to see if it engages; that's a part of the fluid fill procedure, after all.

No, no fuel stabilizer. It wasn't something I was thinking of. I do know that the fuel evaporates. So it might not be a gel, but whatever residue fuel leaves behind after it's dried out.

The oil pan, I guess I don't need to drain the oil, just watch it dribble out any water from the pan, right?

A diaper... yeah, that will collect a lot before leaking itself. I bet the bolts are lose on the pan and the seal is leaking.

The day I parked it, it was leaking like a sieve. I'd say I lost about a quart of ATF in the 20min it sat at the BigBoy Burgers while waiting for my ride after I shut it down. It was smoking like a chimney too! I thought she was going to catch in fire that day. Man, I'll never forget that day.