Clutch kit

97teebs

97teebs

2nd Gear Poster
Joined
Sep 27, 2023
Messages
122
Age
44
Location
Lugoff SC
Vehicle Details
1997 Thunderbird Lx 4.6 Auto/1990 Super Coupe 35th Anniversary 5 Speed
Country flag
Anyone have a reasonably priced clutch kit solution? Mine fried this morning but not in a place where I can spend 400 on a clutch. I found this on RA but not sure if they are worth a crap or not
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20230928-155227_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20230928-155227_Chrome.jpg
    805.9 KB · Views: 5
It's my understanding that the clutch discs like that can chatter. I don't know much about that brand.
 
That one will chatter like a mofugger. Just get a Sachs or LUK with a new flywheel and call it done.
 
97teebs said:
Anyone have a reasonably priced clutch kit solution? Mine fried this morning but not in a place where I can spend 400 on a clutch. I found this on RA but not sure if they are worth a crap or not
Click to expand...
Is this for your Tbird or another car of yours?
 
I'd go LUK or Centerforce Dual Friction ( pricey but it felt so good .. 😉 ) and resurface the flywheel. Replace the pilot bearing / bushing and throw out bearing. It adds up quick but you don't want to drop your transmission more than you have to.
 
Agreed with the others and get a stock style clutch. I forget the brand... I used a "high clamp load" clutch on my swap. It has some chatter, not horrible but had I known would have went with a stock clutch. I talked to another member on FB with same aluminum flywheel and a 6 puck and he has the same thing going on.
 
yeah it gets right out of my price range quick not trying to be a cheap skate but I've got one of my kids bday coming up next month then all the holidays... etc.. looking for somewhere in the 200 range
 
dDUBb said:
I'd go LUK or Centerforce Dual Friction ( pricey but it felt so good .. 😉 ) and resurface the flywheel. Replace the pilot bearing / bushing and throw out bearing. It adds up quick but you don't want to drop your transmission more than you have to.
Click to expand...
Agree, I cheaped out when I did the 5 speed swap, used flywheel(resurfaced though), cheapo clutch, used throw out bearing and surprise surprise it was terrible! Ended up doing it all over again. The centerforce was real nice in my friends 89 but he didn't like me speed shifting with the truck syncros lol
 
The centerforce is definitely worth it, wouldn't consider anything else until I go with a twin disc setup when I switch to a magnum. I'm on my second one, the first one didn't really need replaced, probably had about 1/3-1/2 life left but had the transmission out and really didn't want to chance it since I was there at it. 1st one had over 35k on it, never slipped, chattered or gave me any issues, even with around 500ft/lbs torque and sticky 285 tires (just broke axles and transmissions). New one has about 5k on it already and it's just as wonderful as the first. My buddy has a spec stage 2+ and I can't stand it, it's way to on/off. The centerforce is very close to a stock feel, even with my aluminum flywheel.
 
I know it's not ideal, but I understand budget issues. I've got the stock-style clutch I pulled from my car when I tore it apart. I never had issues with it and I've got a Centerforce DF to go back in. I've also got a couple brand new throw-out bearings and maybe a pilot bushing/bearing as well. I'd be willing to send you the friction disc and a new throw-out (possibly a pilot if I find one?) for a few bucks over shipping cost if you want.
 
jco1385 said:
I know it's not ideal, but I understand budget issues. I've got the stock-style clutch I pulled from my car when I tore it apart. I never had issues with it and I've got a Centerforce DF to go back in. I've also got a couple brand new throw-out bearings and maybe a pilot bushing/bearing as well. I'd be willing to send you the friction disc and a new throw-out (possibly a pilot if I find one?) for a few bucks over shipping cost if you want.
Click to expand...
I'll think about that offer I really want to do the pressure playe as well I don't think I'm having an issue with the throw out. So a bit of backstory I got this car in 2018 I put a clutch, pressure plate, throw out, slave, master and new clutch line in it I barely drive it. Only on my days off so it gets about 2k miles a year. I'm really pissed off that I'm having this issue. Oh and I'm probably gonna do a flywheel which is alot of $. I'm gonna see about having current flywheel resurfaced but my luck for some reason I probably will be stuck getting a new one.
 
97teebs said:
its for mine. not my 97 but for my 90 sc
Click to expand...
I can get you a duralast clutch kit for about $120 if that helps.. If so send me a PM.
 
Soft pedal hard to get it into any gear when it does go into gear and you release the clutch pedal it does more smoking then moving the car. It's not the master or slave I can see the throw out pushing on the pressure plate and it's moving as much as it should definitely a clutch or flywheel issue
 
You might need to bleed the clutch. Pump the pedal about 1000 times until it gets hard again .. 😉
 
dDUBb said:
You might need to bleed the clutch. Pump the pedal about 1000 times until it gets hard again .. 😉
Click to expand...
He said the throw out bearing is moving as it should, almost sounds like a pressure plate issue. I had a plate fail on a Honda once, everything moved as it should, just wouldn't release right. Ended up one of the clamping springs broke and the jammed into the plate, essentially locking it up.
 
He said soft pedal and hard engagement .. that's where I would start before ordering a new clutch kit. My SC does the same thing when the car sits for long periods of time. Except without the smoking clutch. It's worth a shot and won't cost anything.
 
dDUBb said:
You might need to bleed the clutch. Pump the pedal about 1000 times until it gets hard again .. 😉
Click to expand...
Or get a vacuum bleeder and save the headache.
 
It's not a bleed issue if it sits and cools it'll work ish. Makes some terrible noises but will move and shift thr clutch gets warm and you loose gears
 
Yeah, a bleeding issue won’t cause slipping. I’ve actually driven home with no clutch after blowing out the slave cylinder, just matching rpms to shift gears. It is sounding more like either something broke in the pressure plate, or possibly something in the trans itself.
 
I think it's in the pressure plate cause if it was in the trans itself when it cools off I don't see it suddenly working whereas the clutch getting to hot and cooling off and working I can understand
 
I think I'm gonna do the sachs kit and a flywheel so wondering now should I do the alumn. flywheel or back to the steel its an 85$ dollar difference so not that much of a price increase just don't really know if I want my rpms to climb that quick... my 1st gear is already super short (3.27 rear gear)
 
good info and much appreciated dunno when I'm gonna order this stuff so right now just wanted to gather intel on the best way to go about it. its not a "race" car but we all like some pep in our step ya know
 
Any recommendations on what brand clutch kit I should get cannot find a Sachs kit but looking for something in that price and quality range.
 
Summit shows Sachs shipping in a couple weeks. They also have a Zoom brand forty bucks cheaper, but I've never heard of them. That's available to ship in a couple days
 
yeah I saw that zoom one but like you, I've never heard of it so I didn't wanna go that route I believe it was a cheap clutch failure to begin with. so i'm not sure how much I wanna rely on another unknown quailty clutch that fails way to soon so I think i'm gonna try and put together enough money to do the SPEC kit from SCP. I don't feel that there is a personal need for the centerforce set up I don't drive the car that hard and thats alot of money that I"m sure is worth it but just not something I can justify
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Back
Top