Front upper control arms and endlinks

[andy625uk]

Just fitted the uca that Brandon very kindly brought over from the states. I'd forgotten how much of a PITA it was getting the rear bolt out of the driver's side control arm by the brake servo.

Then I changed the endlink that annoyingly was ok apart from the split boots. Top nut came off ok, but the bottom one took about an hour of clamping , jamming, swearing and cutting to get out. I just couldn't stop the stud from spinning. There was no Allen key hole in it, and even though the new one has got one, it's so close to the strut that you'd never get one in there anyway.

 

[Grog6]

I have had to hit the pickle fork with an air hammer, while hitting the bolt with an impact. it finally came out.

 

[andy625uk]

Just doing the endlink on the other side and it's a total b@stard like yesterday's. Finally got it off, put the new one on and having the same trouble in reverse trying to get the nut done up without the shaft turning. Then i realised they've supplied the stupid oval locknuts! What an utterly stupid idea!!!!

 

[theterminator93]

Yep... been there many times!

I've never had trouble with the studs spinning when trying to remove them, usually it's that I have a hard time separating it from the sway bar unless I get my pickle fork out.

Installing them, every time. I have been known to wedge the open end of a wrench between the ball joint and sway bar to provide enough pressure to keep it from spinning as I tighten it. Then as it gets tight I'll pull the wrench out and finish torquing the nut down. For the spindle side I usually don't have an issue because there's a vertical load on the stud that keeps it from spinning. But if I do I bust out my trusty C-clamp.

 

[andy625uk]

They came out of the holes really easily. I had to busted out my c clamp too. This is what it looks like now:

 

[i_taz]

How did you get to that UCA nut by the booster... from underneath...?

Jack

 

[theterminator93]

The general consensus is that the best way is to use a ratcheting 18mm box-end wrench. It's a tight squeeze and you can only get 1-2 clicks at a time, but it works.

 

[andy625uk]

Yep I would go along with that. I didn't have a ratcheting 18mm spanner so I did it up very slowly with a standard short spanner, and prayed I did it up tight enough! (I did it that way last time, and nothing came apart for 10yrs so )

 

[i_taz]

I had a regular and didn't even bother trying just went ahead and bought a ratcheting but I get 1 click and I'm done.
Should have got one with a flex head to clear the hood pivot mount....

 

[Bill H]

same here - ratching 18mm wrench from the top. on driver's side, when i disconnected the brake reservoir sensor, the plug broke...future searchers beware. But i needed it out of the way to fit my hand in there. 1-2 clicks just have to be patient. i used a second wrench over the open end to get leverage for final estimate torque.

 

[LukesCougar]

I feel your pain. Took a torch and plenty of pb to get mine out, and i lacked the hex on my links so they spun free until i found something to fork them with