Leaky A/C ports

Kenz

Kenz

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Florida
Vehicle Details
96 Cougar - T45
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The AC leak in my Cougar recently got really bad. I can hear it leaking out of both the High side and Low side valves when I unscrew the plastic caps.
Plan is to get a vacuum pump and gauge kit and fix it myself.

Any other parts I should replace while I am at it?

Should 8oz of PAG 46 be enough oil?

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I'd put in maybe half that, just because a good portion of it collects in the accumulator.
 
Just my opinion, but I would replace the other hose as well, and also any O-Rings you can get to. I think they sell a kit that has O-Rings for the whole system. I think 8oz is the entire system capacity, so you won't need all of that. I used to have a chart that had the amount to add when replacing certain components, but I cannot find it right now.
 
Would a 3oz can of this be a good idea then? :unsure:
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I've got a kit of the purple EPDM o-rings, planning to replace the ones I can easily get to
 
Yeah I think 3oz is enough. You could also just get a bottle - it's cheaper and you just pour some into the accumulator before you seal it up and evacuate it. You'd have to trash whatever you don't use though, it's like brake fluid and goes bad rapidly after you open it.

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Kenz said:
Would a 3oz can of this be a good idea then? :unsure:
View attachment 13161

I've got a kit of the purple EPDM o-rings, planning to replace the ones I can easily get to
Click to expand...
It might, but I'm always suspicious of products when they don't actually say what the product is on the label. There are different viscosity PAG oils. Plus, I usually manually add the oil to the parts before I install them. I normally buy the stuff in the bottle like terminator posted.
 
Well thanks for the help everyone! I ordered everything; it was about $240 total for the parts, refrigerant/oil, and vacuum kit/gauges.

Now I'm headed to YouTube University to learn how to properly evac and recharge it :geek:
 
All I can say is it is easier than you probably think it is, but A/C requires patience and attention to detail. Take your time and pay attention to what you are doing. Keep everything clean. I also agree with XR7-4.6, a small scale is helpful to keep track of how much refrigerant you have added. It is nicer nowadays with the self sealing cans as well. Back in the day with the pierce top cans once you pierced the top you had to leave it on your gauges because once you disconnected it, it would all escape.

I'll see if I can find that chart that gave rough estimates for how much to add per component replaced. It isn't an exact science at that point, but it should get you in the ballpark.
 
I watched a few Youtube videos, it looks like a straightforward procedure. I won't have to worry about discharging the system, since I accidently left the caps off and the system will be pretty much empty in a few days :censored:

It would have been nice if Ford put in lines that had a replaceable Schrader valve. That would have made this job easier or it might not have even started leaking in the first place. These factory lines look like they have a cheap spring loaded plastic ball holding the valve shut
 
I've got to figure mine out as my system shows ZERO psi on low side and compressor won't kick on. I should vacuum and see if it will hold. Damn hot these days to boot.
 
Generalee0527 said:
I've got to figure mine out as my system shows ZERO psi on low side and compressor won't kick on. I should vacuum and see if it will hold. Damn hot these days to boot.
Click to expand...

Vacuum is a good indicator of leaks to an extent. I prefer nitrogen .. also easier to find bubble leaks with soapy water.
 
Here is the info for replacing individual parts and oil recharge levels. Mind you, this is from a 1989 service manual and R-12, but I think the quantities should be pretty good. Hopefully it is legible.
IMG_3377.jpg
 
Thanks for posting that @KevinVarnes . Good to know, might help someone else too.
I ended up putting 3oz in the accumulator which is what was recommended on a few sites I found, and also from @theterminator93. I poured it into the port going to the evaporator before install.

So far the system is holding a vacuum which is a good sign. I'm letting the pump run for another hour to make sure the system is dried out well.

I have to say I am disappointed with the quality of the parts I ordered! They fit, but not very well. The bracket that holds the accumulator doesn't fit around it, and same for the bracket that holds down the discharge line. Wishing I went with Motorcraft but who knows if they would be any better, or are even available anymore.
 
Yeah, I mean it's GPD so. Sometimes you just have to work with what you can get. The accumulator is still available new from Ford (surprisingly), but it is also $120. The hose is not available. Aside from maybe an imperfect fit, function should be fine. It's pretty hard to screw those things up.
 
I have a friend who is a good mechanic and he has a vacuum pump and he said he would check it next time I wander over there. Wife's not happy I spent all day over there today going thru a '91 ranger that git a new timing belt(it was 4 teeth out) and we fought all afternoon to get the gas tank out what a PITA. Next week a new fuel pump and a quick flush then drop the battery in and fire it. It needs hoses and such and maybe some calipers but should be cheap and easy. I need it running as the bird need new guides, timing chains and HV oil pump or its to the crusher.
 
Got the system charged up and it is working better than ever. Can drive her again!

I found this chart that @theterminator93 posted on TSTSNBN to get the system pressurized properly -

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I had to follow the 95° Ambient Temp.... Heat advisory in FL currently :zdevil:

One thing I'd recommend is make sure that you have a complete set of line disconnect tools. It's less than $10 for a cheap complete set on Amazon. I thought I had them all, but was missing the larger size. I was able to make some plastic tube I found and cut to size work, but it would have saved time if I went in with the right tool set.
 
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