My 92 Sport 5.0

[JacobM03]

Finally will begin my proper build thread :

I have had this car for a good bit now (3 years now in 2024) and have done a few mods to it.

First of all of the important stuff, Summer of 2021 I blew the automatic transmission and swapped in a 5 speed from a 1989 supercoupe.

Second of all, I had put the car on air bags summer of 2023








Had the car running like that all summer 2023 and still running in 2024, whole system with plastic tubing, manual valves but I am planning on upgrading the system to a more reliable hard tubing and electronic valves and better gauges.

 

[XR7-4.6]

Welcome to the 5-speed club!

I love that color, do I spy rear window louvers?

 

[JacobM03]

Now the latest updates on the car for summer 2024, worked all last fall and all this spring on the car. Tore the whole front end apart from stock:




Ripped everything out, cleaned and scuffed the whole engine bay and painted it a graphite grey:



Turned out alright, I was really shooting for a gunmetal but out of a rattle can it was good enough.

Next on the list was to rebuild the 5 Speed transmission, 1 for the fun of it and learning experience, 2 reverse gear was acting up, 3 I had everything out and wanted to put in as much new as possible.



Once I had that done, I rebuilt a 5.0 HO engine out of a 1987 Mark VII, this engine had the mustang HO cam which I left in it. Rebuilt this engine, Painted the block and threw on some Holley Aluminum heads I had bought second hand and got resurfaced.



Heads came with roller rockers and double springs, had to get 6.400 pushrods I believe to match the heads geometry. After that I topped it off with a Holley Dominator single plane manifold and new water pump :



Next, I went from the ABS setup to conventional brake booster and cylinder, deleted all that junk and ripped out all of the wiring, depinned all the connectors, that felt really good :



Also while I was at it I redid all the front brake lines:



Next big course of actions was to put in the new AJE tubular K member :



Painted my stock sway bar, changed sway bar bushings while I was there too.

 

[JacobM03]

Part 2 of the latest updates:

After the K member I did my trunk battery relocation:

Power was then setup, did all my wiring and got all that ready for the engine. Next was the clutch and flywheel, got a centerforce dual friction disc and new flywheel all with new fresh hardware:


Bolted up the trans with the summit mini starter and it was ready to throw in!



Threw the engine in:



Did my heater core plumbing :



Installed my Holley MSD hyperspark distributor (These come only with cast iron gears and you have to swap over to a steel gear to make them work with steel cams which is a PITA to change and I ruined a whole distributor shaft trying to do it myself but got it the second time with a new distributor which added a good chunk to the bill) :



When I replaced my slave cylinder in the transmission it was one for a ford ranger but it did fit my transmission as they had the same one but the quick connect for the hydraulic line was different so I had to find a hose that worked. Thankfully a braided steel hose for a 94 ranger fit the stock master cylinder which I also replaced, and the new slave cylinder.



Added my accessory brakcets and my new SN95 130 amp alternator:



Got a new belt tensionner for SN95’s which is slightly different from the stock one but fits in its place if you grind down the locking nub a little bit. With my setup a 91.5” belt works but squeals alot, will have to try a shoter one to see if it gives more tension and stops squealing.



Painted the ac clutch which im keeping for now as a requirement from the gf:

 

[JacobM03]

Part 3 :

Changed U joints, Painted driveshaft and hoops. Painted with thick rust preventing paint above gas tank and inside tranny tunnel while I was here, the rest of the underside will be painted eventually.



Got my set of long tubes ceramic coated :





Made an alternator bracket off the writeup for the 3g alternators:



Went with E3 spark plugs which I managed to break 1 of them somehow:



Figured out the AJE K member sits 1 inch taller than stock and seems to sit towards the front of the car more.



Installed power steering, spark plug wires and the cherry on top, the holley sniper efi!



Installed the catch can:



Made a custom radiator frame to fit my 1965 mustang rad and to fit my future intercooler



Hidden windshield washer fluid tank:

 

[JacobM03]

Part 4 :

Cut the stock upper rad hose to fit my setup:



Flex-a-lite 3000cfm cooling fan and my new overflow jug:



Continental flex hose for lower:



Lokar throttle cable and a spring to give me more pedal feel:



Stainless exhaust pipes, tru bendz exhaust kit and a black widow venom 250 muffler comes out to 3.5 inch tips:



An6 fuel lines 3/8 aluminum tubing with a 340lph in tank fuel pump:



Found out the hard way the sniper efi 2 does not have an internal pressure regulator so I got the holley one:



Was somehow unable to bleed powersteering, it was not working very good and I went and messed with the fittings on the rack and broke it , got new power steering pump, rack and pinion and new lines and it bled great right away and works good! :



Got the k&n 2” air filter to clear the hood, still had to cut off a small section of support and rip out the insulation :

 

[JacobM03]

Part 5:

The current stage :





This was definitively a learning experience, had lots of fun, lots of thinking was done and lots of anger was released but the car is finally driving and has now sucessfully driven 500 km’s since this years build.

Concenssus:

The car did not seem to gain any power, almost feels like it lost abit of torque at lower rpm’s, not sure if its because of the shallow single plane intake or the mustang cam compared to the stock thunderbird cam or if its the sniper efi setup? But I was abit dissapointed with how it feels at lower rpm’s, seems to be picking up more than before past like 4000 rpms though but this heavy car needs the torque down low.

I am not as big of a holley fan as I was begining this build, their customer support is not very good and it takes a very long time over the phone, they are expensive but the quality seems to be there, the sniper worked awesome, started right away and seems to be tuning fine.

I am not very happy with AJE and them not mentioning the engine location change anywhere or what proper way to install their motor mount plates as I think mine might be the wrong way and maybe thats why my engine is pushed forward.

A single black widow venom 250 muffler is very loud, has a nice sound but drones quite a bit on the highway cruising.

Conventional brakes seem to work fine, no problems yet and the brake pedal feels good!

Centerforce clutch works awesome, good pedal feel and hasnt slipped yet!

Not impressed at all with tru bendz and I do not recommend their kit, did not fit my fuel tank or diff properly, not sure if its because they falsely advertise that it fits the 92 as I know newer models have different fuel tank arrangement. But if I were to start over I would just buy the stainless tubes and bends and weld them myself as even their tubing did not line up 1 bit at the rear of the car and I had to weld and extension to move it over 5” to one side, plus it fits so wrong it sits under the diff and reduces geound clearance substancially.

I am proud of what I have done so far but yet not done, there will be more.

Next moves are:

New belt size to fix the squeal
Mustang brake conversion
Cowl hood
Blower
Nice wheels and big tires

 

[Vicinity]

That's a lot to digest! Why is everything so pretty?

 

[Zep5.0]

Lots of great information here, and a nice project! The 87 HO cam is the same as ours, but now your heads/ intake flow substantially more, which is more conducive to higher RPMS. I think a mild cam update would benefit you greatly. The other thing, is rear gears. Are you still on stock 2.73s? 3.08 or 3.27 would wake it up a bunch. I dropped 0.7 seconds in the 1/4 with basically stock everything else moving from 2.73 to 3.73 in an auto.

You need the 93+ fuel tank with that exhaust. Any thought on putting high flow cats in to reduce sounds or drone? Small bullet mufflers may do the trick too.

You said AJE makes lower engine mounts. So you plan to swap to those and rotate sides to attempt to move the motor back and lower? Interested, as I have a 5.0 and will need to know this.

 

[JacobM03]

Lots of great information here, and a nice project! The 87 HO cam is the same as ours, but now your heads/ intake flow substantially more, which is more conducive to higher RPMS. I think a mild cam update would benefit you greatly. The other thing, is rear gears. Are you still on stock 2.73s? 3.08 or 3.27 would wake it up a bunch. I dropped 0.7 seconds in the 1/4 with basically stock everything else moving from 2.73 to 3.73 in an auto.

You need the 93+ fuel tank with that exhaust. Any thought on putting high flow cats in to reduce sounds or drone? Small bullet mufflers may do the trick too.

You said AJE makes lower engine mounts. So you plan to swap to those and rotate stuffed to attempt to move the motor back and lower? Interested, as I have a 5.0 and will need to know this.

I thought the HO cams in the 87 were the same as the mustangs and that the thunderbird cams were the same as the 93 cobra’s? Built for more torque then for hp? And yes I will need to change the camshaft, I am not sure which one would suit my combination, especially if I go to a blower!

My rear gears are 3.08 the stock on the sport, don’t really want to up them as right now highway speeds (100kmh) it sits at 1800rpm.

Yes for the exhaust thats what I assume, it was just marked as it fits the 89-92 so I assume they must have made an error somewhere because it doesn’t fit good at all. I am thinking of replacing my exhaust tips with some sort of resonators or mufflers as my tips are 18” long.

Yes AJE makes lower engine mounts, I am not switching over to them as my height is ok right now, I just wished they would have mentioned it on their product, also the engine mounts bring the engine forward, which is somethkng else I have noticed, you can somewhat tell in the engine bay but when you go to line up the transmission again you can really see it, shifter doesnt align with the hole at all, tranny member doesnt align with the tranny mount, tranny slaps out of gear because the rubber is pushing on it (which fixes itself by leaving it parked in gear for awhile).
But there is a few threads I read that mention there is 2 ways to put the mounts on the engine as one side on the block mounts more forward so you can switch them sides and the engine will sit further back, not fully sure if it will sit in the stock position as I have not tried yet/ don’t even know if I put mine on the right way or backwards, but I would really like to know.

 

[MadMikeyL]

Impressive build. A couple thoughts:
1) The single plane intake is most definitely going to cost you power down low! It is really the wrong choice for your build. Single plane manifolds don’t make more power until 5000+ rpms, and they are notably down on power below that.
2) The Mustang cam is the same as the tbird cam. This cam is made for idle quality and emissions on a motor that was out of breath at 5k rpms. You now have a cam that wants to make power at 3k rpms, heads that want to make power at 4-6000rpms, and an intake manifold that wants to make power at 7500rpms. The result is the intake kills your bottom end, the cam kills your top end, and the heads, can never perform the way they should.
3) I’m surprised by the issues with the truebendz kit. I have used a number of their kits before, and while they require some time and tweaking to get everything lined up properly before welding, they have always fit and cleared the gas tank and rear suspension for me without issues. The fuel tank changed for 92, not 93, so it should fit your car, unless someone put the early style tank in there. One thing I always do on them is actually weld the pipes to each other where they go through the gas tank area. This keeps them close together to clear everything, but since they are welded to each other, they won’t rattle.
4) For the motor mounts, flipping them side to side will move the engine back 1”. Since you said they are in the more forward position, they are probably in the stock location. I don’t know about the AJE K-member as I have never worked with one of them, but one thing to keep in mind is moving the engine back can create clearance issues with the headers, so keep an eye on that if you try switching them.
6) I probably wouldn’t change the rear gears. 3.27s might be a slight improvement, but not enough to justify the work involved, and if you like cruising on the highway, the 3.08s are great with the M5R2. What I would do, given everything you have already done, I would swap the cam for something with around .500-.550” lift and maybe around 230@.050” duration and a 112/114LSA, then ditch the single plane manifold for a good dual plane. With those 2 changes, you will have heads, cam, and intake that all jive and work together in the 3000-6000rpm range, and I think with the M5R2 trans that will really make the car come alive!

 

[Zep5.0]

I was trying to find that intake for the RPM specs, but seems it's no longer made. There were 2 iterations with one having a divide in the bottom to help with lower rpm torque. Anyway, I'm with Mikey, it's certainly too much intake for the stock cam. A comp extreme energy in the 1500-6000 rpm variety will do well with those heads. I don't think you need a "boost" cam if you're not looking for a 700hp setup. Make sure to do your research on lifters, as there have been more issues in recent years, although roller lifters haven't had the issues flat-tappet have.

Are you thinking centrifugal supercharger, and keep the intake and FI you have? I was thinking you were planning to put an M90 on a modified intake.

 

[JacobM03]

Impressive build. A couple thoughts:
1) The single plane intake is most definitely going to cost you power down low! It is really the wrong choice for your build. Single plane manifolds don’t make more power until 5000+ rpms, and they are notably down on power below that.
2) The Mustang cam is the same as the tbird cam. This cam is made for idle quality and emissions on a motor that was out of breath at 5k rpms. You now have a cam that wants to make power at 3k rpms, heads that want to make power at 4-6000rpms, and an intake manifold that wants to make power at 7500rpms. The result is the intake kills your bottom end, the cam kills your top end, and the heads, can never perform the way they should.
3) I’m surprised by the issues with the truebendz kit. I have used a number of their kits before, and while they require some time and tweaking to get everything lined up properly before welding, they have always fit and cleared the gas tank and rear suspension for me without issues. The fuel tank changed for 92, not 93, so it should fit your car, unless someone put the early style tank in there. One thing I always do on them is actually weld the pipes to each other where they go through the gas tank area. This keeps them close together to clear everything, but since they are welded to each other, they won’t rattle.
4) For the motor mounts, flipping them side to side will move the engine back 1”. Since you said they are in the more forward position, they are probably in the stock location. I don’t know about the AJE K-member as I have never worked with one of them, but one thing to keep in mind is moving the engine back can create clearance issues with the headers, so keep an eye on that if you try switching them.
6) I probably wouldn’t change the rear gears. 3.27s might be a slight improvement, but not enough to justify the work involved, and if you like cruising on the highway, the 3.08s are great with the M5R2. What I would do, given everything you have already done, I would swap the cam for something with around .500-.550” lift and maybe around 230@.050” duration and a 112/114LSA, then ditch the single plane manifold for a good dual plane. With those 2 changes, you will have heads, cam, and intake that all jive and work together in the 3000-6000rpm range, and I think with the M5R2 trans that will really make the car come alive!

Okay good to know about the camshaft! I suspected my combination of parts didn’t really work together and I will have to look for a different manifold and swap it when I do change my cam that way it’ll be easier and all at once since id pull the intake anyways , Now I heave read that single planes are alot better with the sniper efi and that dual planes would possibly cause issues with the tbi setup, would you know about this at all and would a dual plane still worl fine? Thanks alot for the comment and help!

And yes I did weld up together my tru bendz exhaust pipes and not fully sure if I do have the early or later style tank but it really doesn’t clear the rear diff, one pipe lines up under the rear control arm mount and the other under the diff.

 

[JacobM03]

I was trying to find that intake for the RPM specs, but seems it's no longer made. There were 2 iterations with one having a divide in the bottom to help with lower rpm torque. Anyway, I'm with Mikey, it's certainly too much intake for the stock cam. A comp extreme energy in the 1500-6000 rpm variety will do well with those heads. I don't think you need a "boost" cam if you're not looking for a 700hp setup. Make sure to do your research on lifters, as there have been more issues in recent years, although roller lifters haven't had the issues flat-tappet have.

Are you thinking centrifugal supercharger, and keep the intake and FI you have? I was thinking you were planning to put an M90 on a modified intake.

Yes that intake manifold seems pretty rare and really is hard to find info and even any comparable pictures of!


Yes I will eventually do some research on lifters too as thats part of the plans with the cam swap!

My initial plan with the supercharger was tk make a custom intake to adapt an M112 off a lightning but that plan had fell off from complications. Now I am either thinking a remote M112 setup over valve cover which would clear with a cowl and give me the roots blower I want and already have but the ultimate easiest would be a centrifugal. So still not fully decided on the setup but I think I will follow through with my M112 plan!

 

[MadMikeyL]

I see no reason that the sniper would have any issues with a dual plane. Carburetors work just fine on dual plane manifolds, and back in the 80s when manufacturers were using TBI setups, they were all on dual plane style manifolds.

Something is definitely not right with that exhaust. Those pipes should tuck up between the diff and the LCA mounts on the subframe. I can’t see your tank in the picture, but the later style tank should have a recessed area in the middle slightly to the driver’s side to clear the exhaust. The early style tank is flat all the way across the bottom and the exhaust goes all the way out to the driver’s side rocker panel and around the tank that way.

 

[97 30th]

I was worried I would have to add the v bend on the one side like the factory has to clear the diff but it fit great and the lowest part of the car in this area is the rear control arm mounts. I have the Tru Bendz 2.25" SS

 

[JacobM03]

I see no reason that the sniper would have any issues with a dual plane. Carburetors work just fine on dual plane manifolds, and back in the 80s when manufacturers were using TBI setups, they were all on dual plane style manifolds.

Something is definitely not right with that exhaust. Those pipes should tuck up between the diff and the LCA mounts on the subframe. I can’t see your tank in the picture, but the later style tank should have a recessed area in the middle slightly to the driver’s side to clear the exhaust. The early style tank is flat all the way across the bottom and the exhaust goes all the way out to the driver’s side rocker panel and around the tank that way.

Okay so I must have the newer style fuel tank as it does have the exhaust tunnel, the thing is thought is that my exhaust is pretty centered and about 1/2” away from the heat shield towards the passenger side so i can’t really bring it any closer so I am not sure what is wrong?

 

[JacobM03]

What intake manifold should I get for my setup? Right now my research is hinting towards a Weiand Stealth or the summit version of it?

 

[MadMikeyL]

That looks like it will work well with your heads. I would probably spring for the Weiand over the Summit, unless you have nothing but time. In my experience, the Chinese knock-off manifolds usually require time porting, smoothing, and massaging to bring them up to spec of the manifold they are copying. If you’re only saving $50-100, I would rather buy the name brand part and not deal with that headache.

 

[XR7-4.6]

the QC on the trubendz is questionable to me to say the least, I got my 2.5” SS pipes tucked up nice but I took a cutoff wheel to the LCA mount and banged the heat shield into submission for the pipes to clear them, and it’s still a little tight in places

 

[JacobM03]

That looks like it will work well with your heads. I would probably spring for the Weiand over the Summit, unless you have nothing but time. In my experience, the Chinese knock-off manifolds usually require time porting, smoothing, and massaging to bring them up to spec of the manifold they are copying. If you’re only saving $50-100, I would rather buy the name brand part and not deal with that headache.

Yes I think ill go for the weiand then, I know that weiand makes the manifolds for summit too so they aren’t really knockoffs! I am just wondering if that manifold will work good and give me power in the range I use and down lown instead of up high or if I should go with another kind of intake?

 

[JacobM03]

the QC on the trubendz is questionable to me to say the least, I got my 2.5” SS pipes tucked up nice but I took a cutoff wheel to the LCA mount and banged the heat shield into submission for the pipes to clear them, and it’s still a little tight in places

Yes seemed very tight, doesn’t fit good at all, I will have to modify them again to get my ground clearance but for this summer its fine, that will be for this winter/spring!

 

[Zep5.0]

I'd be tempted to go with an Edelbrock Performer for your setup, and get a cam with the same operating RPM

 

[JacobM03]

Ive done abit more research and a weiand 8124 would probably be more appropriate for my setup I think than the stealth, and is supposed to be similar/better than an edelbrock performer. Any suggestions or comments on this is helpfull and appreciated!

I'd be tempted to go with an Edelbrock Performer for your setup, and get a cam with the same operating RPM

 

[KevinVarnes]

Engine Masters had a pretty good episode where they were running an aftermarket EFI system (may have been Holley) similar to yours. They started out with a dual plane, but could not get it to run right at all. They finally switched to a single plane and it worked much better. I've heard similar things from others with those systems. No clue why. Do some more research on that before you pay for the dual plane.

 

[Zep5.0]

Ive done abit more research and a weiand 8124 would probably be more appropriate for my setup I think than the stealth, and is supposed to be similar/better than an edelbrock performer. Any suggestions or comments on this is helpfull and appreciated!

The biggest thing is to match intake heads and camshaft, so they work together like Mikey said. I'm guessing those heads to perform well from 1500-6000 or 6500. If it were mine, I'd go Edelbrock performer RPM Air Gap and a cam with a 1500-6200 or higher power band. I'm assuming due to wanting a supercharger, you didn't want to go that high (shifting at 6500). That was why I said Performer instead, and a cam that runs to 5800 or so. I can't speak to Weiand but they've been in the game a long time.

 

[JacobM03]

The biggest thing is to match intake heads and camshaft, so they work together like Mikey said. I'm guessing those heads to perform well from 1500-6000 or 6500. If it were mine, I'd go Edelbrock performer RPM Air Gap and a cam with a 1500-6200 or higher power band. I'm assuming due to wanting a supercharger, you didn't want to go that high (shifting at 6500). That was why I said Performer instead, and a cam that runs to 5800 or so. I can't speak to Weiand but they've been in the game a long time.

I think the heads are supposed to be good from idle to 6000 rpm, I am pretty sure they are holley systemax 2 heads, 2.02” intake valve and 1.6” exhaust valve that I know for sure. They are supposed to have 165cc runners and 61-63cc chambers. Im guessing they would be similar to other 165 heads which are for idle to around 6000 rpm.

These parts are really hard to find info about as I did not buy them new, most of the stuff I have I picked up from some old guys emptying out their shop lol.

But yes I think I want to stay in the lower rpm range for power as I would honestly never really use power above 6k rpm. The weiand street warrior (8124) intake is similar to the performer but with a better modern computer design that gives it more hp/torque all around and peak than the edelbrock from what I read directly from the holley site so I think that would be a good match up to revive my low end torque and should be in the similar range to the heads hopefully.

Now if I go with that intake what cam should I look into for that setup ? Mikey had mentioned .500-.550” lift and 230@.050” duration and 112/114LSA would that still match that combo?

Thank you all again for the support and help on this! This is basically my first time doing all this stuff and with my current setup I have learned alot how parts match with each other in combination especially driving my car I totally get what Mikey is saying, it feels very weak at lower rpm’s and really picks up when the cam is trying to make power at 3k rpms and then it feels like it gets weaker as it tries to breath at higher rpm. It feels all over the place exactly like he mentioned with the different curves of cam, intake and heads!

 

[XR7-4.6]

I think the heads are supposed to be good from idle to 6000 rpm, I am pretty sure they are holley systemax 2 heads, 2.02” intake valve and 1.6” exhaust valve that I know for sure. They are supposed to have 165cc runners and 61-63cc chambers. Im guessing they would be similar to other 165 heads which are for idle to around 6000 rpm.

These parts are really hard to find info about as I did not buy them new, most of the stuff I have I picked up from some old guys emptying out their shop lol.

But yes I think I want to stay in the lower rpm range for power as I would honestly never really use power above 6k rpm. The weiand street warrior (8124) intake is similar to the performer but with a better modern computer design that gives it more hp/torque all around and peak than the edelbrock from what I read directly from the holley site so I think that would be a good match up to revive my low end torque and should be in the similar range to the heads hopefully.

Now if I go with that intake what cam should I look into for that setup ? Mikey had mentioned .500-.550” lift and 230@.050” duration and 112/114LSA would that still match that combo?

Thank you all again for the support and help on this! This is basically my first time doing all this stuff and with my current setup I have learned alot how parts match with each other in combination especially driving my car I totally get what Mikey is saying, it feels very weak at lower rpm’s and really picks up when the cam is trying to make power at 3k rpms and then it feels like it gets weaker as it tries to breath at higher rpm. It feels all over the place exactly like he mentioned with the different curves of cam, intake and heads!

Here’s my $.02 as a modular guy with this essentially par for the course in experience. Build the motor for what it wants( that 6000+ RPM zone) and compensate for the gutless low end with steeper gears; 4.10 being probably the minimum.

Your mileage won’t be great but having a high horsepower/high rpm lowish displacement motor with bottom end grunt is achievable this way. Keeping things old school this way is essentially how Shelby prepared GT350 Mustangs back in 65-66 with the little ol 289 to make them formidable racers back then.

 

[JacobM03]

Here’s my $.02 as a modular guy with this essentially par for the course in experience. Build the motor for what it wants( that 6000+ RPM zone) and compensate for the gutless low end with steeper gears; 4.10 being probably the minimum.

Your mileage won’t be great but having a high horsepower/high rpm lowish displacement motor with bottom end grunt is achievable this way. Keeping things old school this way is essentially how Shelby prepared GT350 Mustangs back in 65-66 with the little ol 289 to make them formidable racers back then.

Yes there is that idea too but my current ratio with the 5 speed my first gear I am at over 6000 rpm’s at 60kph which comes extremely quick so with 4.10’s I would be doing 45kph at that rpm and would probably render the whole 1rst gear useless and my highway cruising speeds would go from 1800 to 2400 which wouldnt the absolute worse but would make cruising a bit worse.

My original main plan was to have the engine produce power at higher rpm and compensate on the low end with the roots blower once I get that setup and that way spread the torque too so that it is driveable.

 

[XR7-4.6]

Yes there is that idea too but my current ratio with the 5 speed my first gear I am at over 6000 rpm’s at 60kph which comes extremely quick so with 4.10’s I would be doing 45kph at that rpm and would probably render the whole 1rst gear useless and my highway cruising speeds would go from 1800 to 2400 which wouldnt the absolute worse but would make cruising a bit worse.

My original main plan was to have the engine produce power at higher rpm and compensate on the low end with the roots blower once I get that setup and that way spread the torque too so that it is driveable.

Well I’ll say this, I currently have 4.30 gears with a TR3650 with a 3.38 first gear; that’s not too far off what a early M5R2 with a 3.75 first and 4.10s would be mathematically. 3.90s would be a wash essentially and 3.73s would be a good all rounder too.

Blower obviously changes the equation quite a bit though