Rear Differential Going Out, What Can I Do?

[racecougar]

Yeah, if I ever were to redo the exhaust on mine, I'd use mandrel bends and V-bands. That exhaust was done by a local shop back in '04 before I knew how to weld.

I went with V-bands on the '65 C10 (and MN12 hangers), and that setup has been excellent.

 

[XR7-4.6]

Here's what I did with mine. Very easy to remove.
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I need to find another muffler equivalent to trade you to redo mine like that lol

 

[Meliodas]

Definitely get a second opinion. If your differential or u-joint was going bad, you'd have the same symptoms all the time while rolling regardless of what gear you were in.

There's a difference between a mechanic and a parts installer. Anyone can install parts, but it takes someone with diagnostic knowledge to accurately identify the problem and propose a fix. I'm sure your friend is a decent and honest guy, but it sounds like he's throwing out solutions to identify the problem. When the solution doesn't fix the problem, a new solution is suggested. All that does for you is waste your time and money.

I agree, he says it’s the “rear end” which is his slang for differential. He wants the entire assembly rather than identifying what’s wrong. But basically I believe the noise is the back right wheel skidding on the ground intermittently. It goes away if I floor it to fourth gear. Don’t really hear it during 60mph . When rolling, no noise. It’s upon acceleration when it occurs, if it occurs. My main vehicle and Strapped on cash currently that’s why I chose this fellow. He’s fixed the car up nicely so far but I’m wondering if he even knows what’s exactly happening. I’m driving it 28 miles 5 days a week lol.

 

[Meliodas]

Also here are some photos of vehicle for whoever asked.

 

[theterminator93]

I'd be more inclined to replace the wheel bearings first. If you can set something up to get a video of the sound from the car or as you drive by slowly, it might be insightful.

 

[Grog6]

M noisy diff was a shim being chewed up and spit out. As it was a non-locker, I found a locker to go back in. Wheel bearings are not easy to replace correctly. There's one little detail, that gets overlooked, that makes them fail quickly. I need to find the pix, and do an article.
Short version is: There's a subtle difference in the size of the inner races in the bearing; one side floats, one side presses into the hub. If you get it backwards, you can't apply preload to the bearing, so it fails in a week.Those bolts are to be torqued to 250 ft lbs, and that's to preload the bearings.

 

[Grog6]

The shop I had do the 2.25" install on lazarus, did it as one piece, front to rear. I didn't know until I needed to drop the trans, and I have the joints to put in,but haven't had them done yet. They put in a good dual exhaust with an x-pipe, and it sounds fine. but it's not as deep as the 2.5" mandrel bent one. I'll have one end loose when I do the engine, so I may drop it and truck it to the shop and get that stuff installed, along with some magnaflows. I was considering taking the new set for the red car down, and have it assembled, but I'm sure that's going to lead to it not fitting. Thoughts

 

[Meliodas]

Honestly I’m sure it is either differential or cv axles, the noise does not occur if I put it into second gear and drive around town, but in drive you can hear it. Usually when it’s continuous it will kind of hesitate to go forward as I press the gas unless i floor it into fourth then the noise will go away.

 

[Meliodas]

I do however hear clicking as I’m braking at low speeds and coming to a stop. Sadly I have to drive her to work or id let it sit until I try to replace axles, then if not solved rebuild diff. You guys are right, probably should get a second opinion. Current mechanic is a good one, been doing it 25 years but when he suggested u joints he didn’t really look under the vehicle, just heard the noise. After installing u joints told me rear end was going out. Hoping it’s just cv axles and I can drive on it while I wait for my new jobs first check lol.

 

[Meliodas]

I'd be more inclined to replace the wheel bearings first. If you can set something up to get a video of the sound from the car or as you drive by slowly, it might be insightful.

I will try to do this today. Sounds like a non squealing tire skid. Or like if you hit rumble strips? I’ll get some audio hopefully

 

[Meliodas]

Honestly I’m sure it is either differential or cv axles, the noise does not occur if I put it into second gear and drive around town, but in drive you can hear it. Usually when it’s continuous it will kind of hesitate to go forward as I press the gas unless i floor it into fourth then the noise will go away.

And again no noise when coasting

 

[Grog6]

That's a wheel bearing, lost likely. drive by a freeway wall with the window down, and you'll hear it clearly. it's easy to localize to a side.

 

[Zep5.0]

Agreed, differential would be louder as speed increase. It wouldn't be intermittent.

 

[Meliodas]

That's a wheel bearing, lost likely. drive by a freeway wall with the window down, and you'll hear it clearly. it's easy to localize to a side.

Sorry sir, I posted a lot , which symptom are you referring to? Could the wheel bearing affect power from vehicle ? Im sorry if I sound dumb . Im learning fast but not fast enough it seems

 

[supergordo]

Sorry sir, I posted a lot , which symptom are you referring to? Could the wheel bearing affect power from vehicle ? Im sorry if I sound dumb . Im learning fast but not fast enough it seems

If a wheel bearing is in bad enough shape it cause cause a great deal of drag. So in the worst cases, yes it could affect power.

 

[Grog6]

Grinding , grumbling noise, louder at low speed?

 

[Meliodas]

I do hear a roar but also I’m in second gear, probably engine. 40mph going 3k rpm will probably do that lmao. But completely different noise than what I hear. Sometimes I hear squeaking when turning wheel hard, very slight noise. Always hear clicking when braking at slow speeds, and the intermittent noise is Not heard when I drive around town in second gear, when car is in drive it happens. Comes and goes. Sounds like a highway rumble strip(sort of) , or a mild tire skid that doesn’t squeal. I’ve done my best to take care of this car. Paranoid about everything I hear. Just wanna get to the next step in my life. I would love to ride this vehicle to 300k . Im in love with the classic feel. That real gas pedal, not this 50 percent throttle shit on the newer cars when you barely touch pedal. I am getting tools and a jack, but for now I’m reliant on other folks knowledge. I used to work/ diagnose computers. And have built several. This stuff is very fun to me. Hoping my situation doesn’t kill the car, or me

 

[Meliodas]

Grinding , grumbling noise, louder at low speed?

No , at first I described as grinding, but now it sounds like a rumble strip. Abrupt. The clicking is braking low speeds. But car hesitates when this noise occurs and only subsides if I press down on pedal at least 80%

 

[Meliodas]

Thanks guys for the replies, haven’t been on an old schoolish forum In awhile. I appreciate all of the knowledge.

 

[Grog6]

All those symptoms are a wheel bearing; braking hard centers the wheel on the bearing, and lets a bit of grease in.
You need to check the wheel bearings. I wouldn't drive it until it's fixed.

To check the rears, you have to jack it up, one wheel at a time. grab the wheel at 9 and 3, and see if you can feel it move.
Then try up down. You should not be able to feel movement.
To do the front, lock the steering and jack up one at a time, check front rear, and up/down again for each again, but you have to make sure any movement you feel isn't a steering component or control arm bushing.

 

[Meliodas]

All those symptoms are a wheel bearing; braking hard centers the wheel on the bearing, and lets a bit of grease in.
You need to check the wheel bearings. I wouldn't drive it until it's fixed.

To check the rears, you have to jack it up, one wheel at a time. grab the wheel at 9 and 3, and see if you can feel it move.
Then try up down. You should not be able to feel movement.
To do the front, lock the steering and jack up one at a time, check front rear, and up/down again for each again, but you have to make sure any movement you feel isn't a steering component or control arm bushing.

Is there a reason no noise is present when being only in second gear

 

[Grog6]

No,but there's nothing that would cause it to be quiet only in 2nd either.

 

[Meliodas]

No,but there's nothing that would cause it to be quiet only in 2nd either.

That’s strange lol. I drive it short distances in 2nd , never heard a peep . Gone up to 45 mph . When in drive it’s like the car is pissed off going into third and you can hear that noise. I’ll get some audio when I go out today.

 

[MadMikeyL]

Does the noise only happen when going into 3rd or 4th gear? From what you’re describing, I’m almost thinking it’s just a bad case of torque converter shudder.

 

[Meliodas]

Does the noise only happen when going into 3rd or 4th gear? From what you’re describing, I’m almost thinking it’s just a bad case of torque converter shudder.

It seems like only third gear. Occurs most often at slow speeds and up hills at slow speeds. If I’m highway driving I can floor it and enter fourth , and drive fine without noise or the hesitation. Also it’s only when giving it gas, never happens while rolling. Like lightly giving gas to maintain 20-30mph

 

[MadMikeyL]

Yeah, that sounds like either a torque converter clutch issue or possibly a slipping transmission, but anything after the trans in the driveline wouldn’t care what gear the trans is in. Here’s a quick test, next time it is doing it, bring your left foot over and gently tap the brake pedal, not enough to engage the brakes but just enough to turn the brake lights on. If the vibration goes away, then it is a bad torque converter.

 

[Meliodas]

Yeah, that sounds like either a torque converter clutch issue or possibly a slipping transmission, but anything after the trans in the driveline wouldn’t care what gear the trans is in. Here’s a quick test, next time it is doing it, bring your left foot over and gently tap the brake pedal, not enough to engage the brakes but just enough to turn the brake lights on. If the vibration goes away, then it is a bad torque converter.

Immediately when you remove your foot from the gas the sound goes away.
And now I hear a slight chirp back there every rotation. Fantastic haha

 

[Meliodas]

Yeah, that sounds like either a torque converter clutch issue or possibly a slipping transmission, but anything after the trans in the driveline wouldn’t care what gear the trans is in. Here’s a quick test, next time it is doing it, bring your left foot over and gently tap the brake pedal, not enough to engage the brakes but just enough to turn the brake lights on. If the vibration goes away, then it is a bad torque converter.

Oops just read this again. Will try this immediately

 

[KevinVarnes]

Not sure if you found any resolution to this, but our '97 would get the rumble strip sensation immediately after the 2-3 shift under light throttle. It could be ignition, but in my case it was the torque converter. I added two tubes of LubeGard to the trans fluid and it fixed it almost immediately. I consider it a short term fix until I can replace the converter.

As mentioned previously, I don't think I've ever heard of a rear diff going out in one of these things unless too much power was run through it or it was run with low/no fluid.

 

[Grog6]

That's a nice looking Car, even from the bottom.
When I had my exhaust done, the guys were asking why I painted the control arms, and all. I said I know it looks good, even if no one else sees it. I left the subframe connectors and braces black.