Rotors for Hub Swap, PBR setup

Bill H

Bill H

1st Gear Poster
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Nov 23, 2023
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Gulf Shores, AL
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94 TBird
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I think I'm going to spring for new slotted, drilled rotors. The old ones are rusty and plain. I've been reading old posts to confirm purchase.
I am running Mustang hubs, PBRs, with OE Mach 1 wheels. Current rotors are just under 11 (10.8ish?)

Does anyone have a recent RockAuto code?

I'm planning to get the 04 Mustang/V6 rotors below. Tell me now if I'm wrong :)

POWER STOP AR8141XPR

130 for the pair.
 
You are correct to order rotors for a 99-04 Mustang V6 or GT. You are wrong to order drilled/slotted rotors. Drilled/slotted rotors are a scam based on an incorrect understanding of why they were originally used on race cars. They not only provide zero benefit on a street car, they actually marginally hurt your braking performance. Also more often than not they squeak, squeal, whistle, or make other unpleasant noises when braking. Get a good quality pair of regular vented rotors.
 
If you want the best longes lasting braking performance solid stock style rotors are better. Drilled and slotted is just for looks, the latter being better than drilled if you must

All I can think of with slotted rotors though is when I put a set on my friends SC and every time he’d apply the brakes you’d hear “ffffffttttt….ffffftttttt…..ffffftttt…..fffffftttttt” it was like the big boy equivalent of baseball cards in the spokes. He glanced at me and I just said” I told you these rotors were silly”
 
A certain amount of heat check cracking in drilled rotor holes is acceptable. My rotors have some small cracks in them that have been there for some time.

Cracks are acceptable provided that:

  • Small heat check cracks at the holes are acceptable up to 3/16 of an inch.
  • They do not connect hole to hole.
  • They do not reach to the outer edge of the rotor.
  • They cannot be felt deeply when running a fingernail over them.

Replace the rotor if:
  • Cracks are greater than 1/4 inch in length
  • Cracks connect hole to hole or hole to outer edge of rotor
  • Cracks can be clearly felt and the crack is widening
  • You see chunks missing
  • You feel vibration under breaking
 
thanks for PN confirmation.

I confess I am motivated by looks more than performance. They sure do look good!
Well made points above. I may hold off on the purchase for now. My current rotors are fine, just rusty and meh.
Once I get the car back on the road, I can revisit this if the bling factor still appeals to me. I have some other repair costs that are higher priority right now anyway.
 
On the 800lb bike I have, the drilled rotors run much cooler than the solid ones. Slots suck, as they feel like expansion joints on the freeway in summer. I have an ir thermometer; I'll see what the difference actually are.
 
I installed some drilled and slotted rotors that somebody wanted me to install for them on their car a few years ago. They sounded terrible. I told the owner I would install regular flat rotors for no charge they were so bad. I usually use Centric C-TEK rotors. They are cheap and I've never had an issue with them.
 
KevinVarnes said:
I installed some drilled and slotted rotors that somebody wanted me to install for them on their car a few years ago. They sounded terrible. I told the owner I would install regular flat rotors for no charge they were so bad. I usually use Centric C-TEK rotors. They are cheap and I've never had an issue with them.
Click to expand...
That’s weird. Mine are quiet as can be.
 
Cracking at the drill holes is because they didn't anneal the rotors after they were drilled. You take them, heat to red hot, slowly, then insulate them and cool them slowly.
But, Red hot rotors getting wet, That makes metal brittle.
 
Grog6 said:
Cracking at the drill holes is because they didn't anneal the rotors after they were drilled. You take them, heat to red hot, slowly, then insulate them and cool them slowly.
But, Red hot rotors getting wet, That makes metal brittle.
Click to expand...

The thing is to me the cheapest of cheapest solid rotors you don’t have to worry about such things without sacrificing a lick of braking performance.

Motorcycle rotors are different, given their weight; my Honda Shadow had a drilled front rotor but notably it wasn’t ventilated, just a 1/4” thick disc, of which was the only brake that was even hydraulic. Apples and oranges.
 
Ventilated rotors would cool way better. Drum brakes crystalize and fade badly on heavy bikes.
One of my buddies ruined his at the dragon in one trip,lol.
 
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