The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

Stupid question. If I had my auto trans features removed in a tune after a manual swap, I shouldn’t have a check engine light, correct?

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Whoever did the tune must have forgot to turn off a few things. When I finished swapping in the T45 I test drove it without a tune. It drove like absolute garbage; was backfiring and bucking really badly. Iirc it was putting out more codes than yours is showing
 
Kenz said:
Whoever did the tune must have forgot to turn off a few things. When I finished swapping in the T45 I test drove it without a tune. It drove like absolute garbage; was backfiring and bucking really badly. Iirc it was putting out more codes than yours is showing
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I’m not gonna drop names, but he’s well known in the MN12 community.
He’s gonna correct it for me, and I have to report fuel trims and some other things to get it dialed in.
 
Ericv8thunderbird said:
I’m not gonna drop names, but he’s well known in the MN12 community.
He’s gonna correct it for me, and I have to report fuel trims and some other things to get it dialed in.
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As an aside be sure to remind him to max out the max spark at low load table(that’s the SCT name for it anyway), that is very easy to miss even for the best tuners. I’m not sure why but without the automatic it defaults to that table in all drive conditions above idle regardless of measured load, which means 15° of timing at all times
 
In my boost bypass valve there is what looks to be a reducer? Does anyone know what it’s for? I took it out and it doesn’t seem to make a difference.

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Ericv8thunderbird said:
In my boost bypass valve there is what looks to be a reducer? Does anyone know what it’s for? I took it out and it doesn’t seem to make a difference.
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This restrictor affects the rate the supercharger bypass valve opens and closes when going in and out of boost. When you go WOT there may be a slight delay if the restrictor is in place .. when removed completely; the bypass valve may slam shut when the throttle is let off abruptly.
 
Not sure, but the there tends to be some sounds from the dash in certain weather for about a year now. I just assume its the glove department getting saggy in my situation
 
Are the factory rear brake calipers a screw in type piston? My ratcheting caliper tool isn't doing jack...

Found it, they are. Another tool I need to rent or buy
 
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I use the cube tool on a cordless drill. It helps to mount the calipers loosely, without the disk, or remove the cables for the parking brake.
 
Zep5.0 said:
Are the factory rear brake calipers a screw in type piston? My ratcheting caliper tool isn't doing jack...

Found it, they are. Another tool I need to rent or buy
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I had to do the same thing. Rent the tool to turn the caliper piston in to replace the OEM pads.
 
Grog6 said:
I use the cube tool on a cordless drill. It helps to mount the calipers loosely, without the disk, or remove the cables for the parking brake.
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I have those cubes. They were a PITA to use and did not fit very well for the rear as I recall. I rented the proper tool and it worked like a champ. The cubes work fine on the fronts. The rears were pretty stiff this time around.
 
I used to use the magic cube of death until I came across an especially stubborn rear caliper on a Freestyle. The cube kept slipping out of the notches in the piston. Every time it did my knuckles would slam into the caliper bracket. It took forever to fully retract it. I bought one of the screw in tools and it makes life so much easier. If a piston isn't stubborn, the cube, or even a pair of needle nose pliers can work. If/when they are stubborn, the screw in tool makes life much easier.
 
KevinVarnes said:
I used to use the magic cube of death until I came across an especially stubborn rear caliper on a Freestyle. The cube kept slipping out of the notches in the piston. Every time it did my knuckles would slam into the caliper bracket. It took forever to fully retract it. I bought one of the screw in tools and it makes life so much easier. If a piston isn't stubborn, the cube, or even a pair of needle nose pliers can work. If/when they are stubborn, the screw in tool makes life much easier.
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Exactly!
 
I picked up one of the screw-in tool kits off Amazon 10 years ago or so after having to deal with rear brakes on the in-laws' fleet of CD3s for the umpteenth time. I think it's paid for itself and then some just considering how much I've saved in gas going to/from the parts place I would have rented it from each time I've used it.
 
I bought the kit from O'Reilly when I worked in the shop. Best $50 I spent. I also have the internal spreader tool for Toyota calipers.

I still have all of my specialty tools and diagnostic scanners and all of my friends know my garage door code. If they need to borrow anything, they drop a sixpack or a frozen pizza in the garage fridge as payment. I haven't bought my own garage beer in ages. It's a pretty good setup.
 
Is there a good source for determining road construction status/quality? I've been taking alternative routes for months now and I don't want to find out firsthand that they've torn things up even more
 
Vicinity said:
Is there a good source for determining road construction status/quality? I've been taking alternative routes for months now and I don't want to find out firsthand that they've torn things up even more
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I recommend trying to look up the road on google and see if there’s a plan for it. Around here a lot of the major road work projects have a dedicated website with time estimates.

As far as the apps I like Waze best for cop spotting but they’re all pretty similar as far as directions for getting around construction. I mostly use the Apple Maps that came on my phone for directions, it’s just as good at finding delays
 
I suppose its more about road quality. Anyone with a suv/truck will blaze through steel plates and torn roads. But yea, you're right there's a department of transportation report on the big ones. I'll happily add 10-15 minutes to a trip with less chaos.

Theres so much high density residential going up around the region that I can't comprehend how much bottlenecks there will be
 
That kind of info is probably maintained by each state or municipality's road maintenance authority. They use it to prioritize which routes get resurfaced with each year's budget, but I doubt the information is publicly available or subject to public records requests. Any databases out there would be crowdsourced (and I don't know of any)...
 
How do I get these bushings (front and back) off from the K-Member?

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BFH. I did that years ago but don't remember it being an issue.
 
Got it off! I used my big ass flathead as a pry bar pulling from the front "hat". Came out in one piece!

Looks like the sleeve is able to separate without problem* and can be reused. I'm going to pass on reusing mine though as I picked up that stainless steel set a couple years ago.

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*Assuming rust free
 
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