Victor jr intake? Valley tube needed?

LukesCougar

LukesCougar

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Olney Illinois
Vehicle Details
1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6 Limited edition 1996 Cougar Xr7 4.6 (sold) 1997 Cougar Sport (sold)
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Mainly from a reliability standpoint not power (but i wouldnt mind an improvement) i want the vic jr intake. I also noticed that it leaves plenty of space in the valley so i was thinking i could do it myself without aquirring another valley tube/ jerry rigging it

I still have the pi intake but it had been burned and repaired with epoxy. no leaks, never had an issue with it, but i thought i might aswell since one of the ports were fried from a nitrous backfire. Just not sure i wanna slap it on the tbird but it was on the cougar for 2 ish years no issue.

I do plan to do cams/ have cams done, just about whatever i can fit in the npi heads for a reasonable price and not doing much more than springs. Im ok without porting the heads or doing serious work if i can get away with it. im actually curious what an npi will do with just some decent cams, intake, and a tune



but yea. on the list of to dos is doing the intake myself, and having a shop install cams/ tune, but right now it is still just an idea because i have a broken window, door handle, sunroof, and a front suspension that isnt as happy as it should be, but eventually
 
That intake will perform absolutely terribly on a NA engine from a day to day drivability standpoint. I’d literally recommend retrofitting a 94-95 npi intake as a better alternative if being aluminum is the sole consideration
 
XR7-4.6 said:
That intake will perform absolutely terribly on a NA engine from a day to day drivability standpoint. I’d literally recommend retrofitting a 94-95 npi intake as a better alternative if being aluminum is the sole consideration
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Understandable, what about the typhoon? if i could find one... Ill assume i would still need the valley tube from 98+ gt/ nipple
 
Typhoon is out of production. Speedmaster is making them now although they appear to be out of stock on their website. There are also Trickflow intakes that show up used fairly regularly on Marketplace.
www.speedmaster79.com

Ford 4.6L EFI 1999-04 Mustang MidRise Intake Manifold Satin

SpecsBrand:SpeedmasterPart Number:1-148-020-01Part Type:Intake Manifold, Fuel InjectedProduct Line:MidRiseEngine Block Style:Stock/OEM standard deckInjection Style:Multi-portBasic Operating RPM Range:1,500-6,500Intake Section Included:CompleteEGR:YesInjectors Included:NoFuel Rails...
www.speedmaster79.com www.speedmaster79.com
 
KevinVarnes said:
Typhoon is out of production. Speedmaster is making them now although they appear to be out of stock on their website. There are also Trickflow intakes that show up used fairly regularly on Marketplace.
www.speedmaster79.com

Ford 4.6L EFI 1999-04 Mustang MidRise Intake Manifold Satin

SpecsBrand:SpeedmasterPart Number:1-148-020-01Part Type:Intake Manifold, Fuel InjectedProduct Line:MidRiseEngine Block Style:Stock/OEM standard deckInjection Style:Multi-portBasic Operating RPM Range:1,500-6,500Intake Section Included:CompleteEGR:YesInjectors Included:NoFuel Rails...
www.speedmaster79.com www.speedmaster79.com
Click to expand...
Alright ill keep that in mind. i did see a typhoon on fb.. but for about 1200$
 
LukesCougar said:
Alright ill keep that in mind. i did see a typhoon on fb.. but for about 1200$
Click to expand...
Yes, for some reason everyone that owns a Typhoon intake either doesn't know or hopes that nobody else finds out that Speedmaster is making the exact same manifold now. I regularly still see Typhoon manifolds for sale for over $1k.

Keep in mind, the new Ford PI intake (apparently made by Dorman), uses the O-Ring type seals to seal the intake to the heads as opposed to the old flat gaskets. I don't believe you can do the RTV smudge to mate it to NPI heads with those style seals.
 
KevinVarnes said:
Yes, for some reason everyone that owns a Typhoon intake either doesn't know or hopes that nobody else finds out that Speedmaster is making the exact same manifold now. I regularly still see Typhoon manifolds for sale for over $1k.

Keep in mind, the new Ford PI intake (apparently made by Dorman), uses the O-Ring type seals to seal the intake to the heads as opposed to the old flat gaskets. I don't believe you can do the RTV smudge to mate it to NPI heads with those style seals.
Click to expand...
I have one of the oem originals from an 01 gt that ran nitrous for awhile. One of the ports was cracked and burnt up, then repaired with epoxy and smoothed out. Still works just fine and no coolant leaks
 
Most of the issues I see with the original PI intakes is the plastic deteriorates under the front aluminum crossover and begins leaking coolant. That or the rear heater hose nipple cracks. These things seem to have a limited service life no matter if the engine was stock or otherwise. My car started out with the original all plastic NPI. At some point that was changed out for the NPI with aluminum crossover. That started leaking under the thermostat housing and I replaced it with a junkyard PI. That cracked a heater hose nipple and was starting to leak under the thermostat. I replaced that with a new Ford PI intake. I then used the previous failures as justification to purchase an old SVO intake, but it will be a while before I get to that. If you want to keep it simple and are concerned about reliability, I think the Speedmaster unit is probably your best bet.
 
Well I found an oem instead. He only wanted 100 for it but I gave him 140 cause I felt like i was already stealing it at that point.1000012966.jpg
 

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KevinVarnes said:
Most of the issues I see with the original PI intakes is the plastic deteriorates under the front aluminum crossover and begins leaking coolant. That or the rear heater hose nipple cracks. These things seem to have a limited service life no matter if the engine was stock or otherwise. My car started out with the original all plastic NPI. At some point that was changed out for the NPI with aluminum crossover. That started leaking under the thermostat housing and I replaced it with a junkyard PI. That cracked a heater hose nipple and was starting to leak under the thermostat. I replaced that with a new Ford PI intake. I then used the previous failures as justification to purchase an old SVO intake, but it will be a while before I get to that. If you want to keep it simple and are concerned about reliability, I think the Speedmaster unit is probably your best bet.
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The intake on my car had a leaky crossover, when i tapped the second coolant sensor i just red rtv the shit out of that area under the crossover and it did fine. i wouldnt say its proper but the car was a rust box, doesnt leak a drop of coolant to this day, and now i have one with no cracks so i hope i have the same luck
 
Unless you have your engine built for over 7000 rpm, ( not just able to rev that high) stick with the PI intake. The typhoon and the TFS intakes are made for higher rpm antics, such as ported intake manifolds (Typhoon) and around 8000 rpm shifts ( TFS).

Don't waste your money.

I've used all three.
 
Fireofficer5 said:
Unless you have your engine built for over 7000 rpm, ( not just able to rev that high) stick with the PI intake. The typhoon and the TFS intakes are made for higher rpm antics, such as ported intake manifolds (Typhoon) and around 8000 rpm shifts ( TFS).

Don't waste your money.

I've used all three.
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Yeah literally all I plan on doing is some stock pi cams.. or whatever I can fit into the npi without doing much more than some new springs.

If I can get right around 250 ish crank hp- without porting the heads and it sounds cool I think I'd be happy, and I'd assume with a decent set of cams and the pi intake/ bigger throttle body I'd be right around there with a good tune no?

If I find a set of 262ah cams that's probably what I'll use, but I also have a buddy with a set of pi cams that be will sell to me for dirt cheap and again I don't plan on cracking her open past the covers any time soon so hopefully that gets me somewhere and the 262ah might not even preform well without porting correct?
 
Back in the day I dyno'd 212 WHP with essentially that combo (PI cams, intake, exhaust, 93 tune) which translates to 240-245 BHP. While this is essentialy the combo of the PI engines which the factory rated at 260, remember that every engine is different. I'd add that you need a good exhaust (inc. mid-length+ headers) to maximize the combo (and any potential cams upgrades essential require them to work properly).

theterminator93

Thread 'PI Intake and Cams'

I found these dyno charts from years ago.

Johnny Langton (RIP) posted this first chart over 20 years ago.

Vehicle specs:
1997 Thunderbird, mildly modded 4.6 NPI with March underdrive pullies, exhaust work, 80mm MAF and a tune.
Red - as described
Blue - PI cams installed

1723055560369.png


Vehicle specs:
1998 Town Car, 78K miles, factory 4.6 Non-PI engine, factory Premium fuel calibration, factory dual exhaust*
Green – Stock base dyno run
Red – Stock with our 93 octane programming
Blue – PI intake, factory style 80mm MAF, our 93 octane programming

1723055996016.png

* The Town Car has different...
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Lazarus is a 96 npi with pi cams, true dual exhaust, 02 GT maf, and 24# injectors. I have the trunk carpet out, as well as the rear seats. About 200# of shit in a box in my basement, lol.
It's currently down with a broken rod, at 550k miles. Current plan for it is a teksid shortblock, and replacing the valve stem seals, leave the cams, pi intake and all.
I wonder if the intake will come off, It's glued in with rtv, lol.
 
theterminator93 said:
Back in the day I dyno'd 212 WHP with essentially that combo (PI cams, intake, exhaust, 93 tune) which translates to 240-245 BHP. While this is essentialy the combo of the PI engines which the factory rated at 260, remember that every engine is different. I'd add that you need a good exhaust (inc. mid-length+ headers) to maximize the combo (and any potential cams upgrades essential require them to work properly).

theterminator93

Thread 'PI Intake and Cams'

I found these dyno charts from years ago.

Johnny Langton (RIP) posted this first chart over 20 years ago.

Vehicle specs:
1997 Thunderbird, mildly modded 4.6 NPI with March underdrive pullies, exhaust work, 80mm MAF and a tune.
Red - as described
Blue - PI cams installed

1723055560369.png


Vehicle specs:
1998 Town Car, 78K miles, factory 4.6 Non-PI engine, factory Premium fuel calibration, factory dual exhaust*
Green – Stock base dyno run
Red – Stock with our 93 octane programming
Blue – PI intake, factory style 80mm MAF, our 93 octane programming

1723055996016.png

* The Town Car has different...
  • Like
Click to expand...
The headers are the only thing im not sure about, i do still plan on having someone weld up something nicer than the restricted y pipe, but im just not sure about headers yet with the price point and difficulty (or price point for having someone do it for me.

cat delete, x pipe, and side exits is still the same plan if i can find someone to do it
 
I don’t think headers are necessary to hit 250 at the crank, just a decent exhaust off the manifolds and a decent tune is all a PI cam and intake swapped npi really needs

Different dynos put out different numbers too
 
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