1996 cougar XR7, key lost. 1500 miles away.

Yeah ao using a worn key to cut a new key back to spec is a farily simple process I eyeball it. So with an 88 El darado that's a 6 cut key with 5 depths highest depth is a 1 lowest is a 5 so I just look at it and go 112345 or whatever the case might be. And because there are only so many combinations of cuts that's how you get the "wrong key" to work and in the case of a Ford 10 cut which is most tbirds and cougars the depth between any 2 cuts let's say depth of 1 and depth of 2 isn't very much often times a 2 would wiggle jiggle in place of a 1 and so forth
 
From what I understand, there's only really about 1500 ford keys, the rest of the patterns either won't insert, or extract, or can be wiggled to work on several cuts.
 
Hey guys! Sorry, took a while. We got a key made. Found a local guy who did it cheap. Problem solved! I guess everyone just didn’t know, or they didn’t want to. He did it in literally 5 mins.
Good to hear!
 
I didn't get any answers to the jiggler keys qurstion. maybe no one here has used them. I am going to buy some and try and see if they work. Kinda scared they will.
 
Just saying, but in an emergency wouldn't a large flat head screwdriver and hammer get the lock cylinder to turn? Even if that doesn't work.... I've replaced the lock cylinder, it's a simple enough design that worst cast you can probably rip it out and go from there. :unsure:
 
Just saying, but in an emergency wouldn't a large flat head screwdriver and hammer get the lock cylinder to turn? Even if that doesn't work.... I've replaced the lock cylinder, it's a simple enough design that worst cast you can probably rip it out and go from there. :unsure:
The way our lock cylinders are mounted to the door I'd be afraid you'd damage the door skin.
 
I meant that for the ignition. The window will pull back enough to get to the power lock button.
 
I have a piece of dowel that will reach the opposite side, that makes it easy.
 
I have bcaa coverage and they just come and put an inflatable wedge in the top of the door frame to get it spread enough to reach the opener or handle. I think it is difficult to open it on your own without damaging the paint or rubber trim on the top of the door/frame.
 
I have bcaa coverage and they just come and put an inflatable wedge in the top of the door frame to get it spread enough to reach the opener or handle. I think it is difficult to open it on your own without damaging the paint or rubber trim on the top of the door/frame.
The way our lock cylinders are mounted to the door I'd be afraid you'd damage the door skin.
It’s here! Upon first seeing it I realized my door handle was broken, like it’s not attached to any mechanism. It was completely fine when I left it 🤨. Still runs as good as before! I have to:

Fix the door handle
Replace the heater core and hoses
Get a windshield wiper linkage and motor assembly, because I’ve been rocking without one this whole time. I’ll probably make a seperate post about that one!
 
There are alot more than 1500 Ford key combations so there are in this case 10 cuts and 5 depths so do the math and you get alot more than 1500...also many keys will open the door but dramatically reduces in terms of ignition due to it being a sidebar design
 
There are alot more than 1500 Ford key combations so there are in this case 10 cuts and 5 depths so do the math and you get alot more than 1500...also many keys will open the door but dramatically reduces in terms of ignition due to it being a sidebar design
It’s not a key issue, the mechanism feels…Broken. So, I’ll have to look into it.
 
It’s not a key issue, the mechanism feels…Broken. So, I’ll have to look into it.
They break for sure. The part holds the rod that goes to the latch can break. You can get the handles in the after market.
 
Yes I was referring to whomever said something about there only being a small selection of Ford keys.
 

Similar threads

Back
Top