Air Suspension Basics and Troubleshooting

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theterminator93

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Vehicle Details
1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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MARK VIII AIR SUSPENSION BASICS
adapted by BirdCats.com staff from an article American Air Suspension

Normal Operation Summary

After starting the Mark VIII, you'll notice the compressor coming on. This is the air suspension inflating the front and rear air springs to bring the vehicle to "city height". The additional ground clearance aids negotiation of city obstacles such as speed bumps, potholes, debris etc. If you were to turn off and exit the vehicle, this extra air would be vented from the springs and the car lowered back down to "curb height". On 1993 and 1994 model years city height is .8" higher than curb height, reduced to a .5" difference starting with the 1995 model year.

The Mark VIII maintains a consistent ride height, compensating for weight added or removed. It also adjusts the height depending on speed. When the vehicle speed is 55 MPH or faster for at least 30 seconds, the car is lowered back down to curb height. This provides improved aerodynamics (from a .34 to a .33 drag coefficient) and better handling due to the lower center of gravity. If vehicle speed then drops to 45 MPH or less for at least 10 seconds, the vehicle will automatically pump back up to "city" height.



Component details:


MODULE
The suspension control module makes any height changes necessary based on the data from the vehicle's 3 height sensors and the vehicle speed sensor. This module also handles the EVO (Electronic Variable Orifice) for the variable assist power steering. It is located above the RF kick panel and can be seen by lowering the glove box. The air suspension/EVO module is the one that has 2 connectors going to it. One is black and the other is gray.

SENSORS
The ride height sensors are the eyes, so to speak, for the module. The sensors let the module know the height of the vehicle. These sensors are attached to the suspension by way of a ball stud at each end. The sensors can be disconnected by pushing down on the metal retaining tab and pulling off the ball stud.

The Mark VIII has what is known as a 3 channel system. In other words, there are 2 sensors in front and only one in the back. The one in the back is for both sides as an average and is on the driver's side. The rear air solenoids are wired together, so when one gets signaled to open, the other will too. This is why the Mark VIII may sometimes get out of kilter when the car is parked in an unlevel area.


AIR SPRING SOLENOID
All four air springs have an electrically operated solenoid that the module uses to isolate each air spring from the others. The module can control the left front and right front independently, but both rear springs are controlled together. The solenoids act as a gate for air. No air goes in or out unless the solenoid is opened by the module. All solenoids have a 2 pin connection which is a simple circuit of +12V and ground.

The air line is held in the solenoids by way of a collet. The air line can be disconnected from the solenoid by pushing in on the orange plastic ring and pulling out on line.

If the module determines the front or rear of the car should be raised, the air compressor will come on and the solenoids will be opened. Air from the compressor/dryer flows through the air lines and into whichever air spring until the desired height has been reached. When this height has been reached, the solenoid(s) will close and the compressor will shut off.

If the module determines the vehicle should be lowered, the solenoid(s) on whichever air spring will be opened up, along with the vent solenoid in the air compressor. The vented air will pass out of the spring, through the air lines, through the compressor/dryer, then to the atmosphere. Once the vehicle has reached the desired height, the solenoids on the air springs and compressor will close.

The module is programmed to only try to raise the vehicle for up to 90 seconds. The module is also programmed to only try to vent the vehicle for up to 45 seconds. If the vehicle has not reached the desired height in the allotted time, the module will time out. This means it will turn on the check suspension message and shut down the system. The vehicle will not try to make any height adjustments until after the ignition has been turned off then back on again. Once the ignition is turned back on, it will then try again until either the desired ride height is reached, or the system times out again.

While these solenoids don't go bad that often, they do need to be resealed when removed. Click HERE for instructions on this.


COMPRESSOR/DRYER ASSEMBLY
The compressor supplies air to the air springs. The compressor on the Mark VIII is the biggest and most powerful in the Lincoln line. It is mounted in the RF fenderwell. It has 4 air lines coming out of the dryer which go to each solenoid on each air spring. It does not matter which line goes into each hole in the dryer. You may find that the lines are molded and one line may fit better when it's inserted into a certain hole, but it won't make any difference when adding or removing air from the system.

The dryer is a common manifold. In other words, the compressor/dryer assembly doesn't know what corner(s) the adjustment is being made on, it only knows to come on when told to do so, or to vent when told to do so. Again, the module controls that by opening the appropriate solenoid(s).

Any air compressor produces moisture, so a dryer is needed to trap and absorb the moisture BEFORE it gets to the springs. The dryer consists of moisture absorbing silica gel beads and 2 metal plates. These plates can rust very badly and actually turn to powder. This powder can then clog up the dryer and even make its way to the vent solenoid and clog it too. In this case, what started out as a dryer problem has turned into a compressor and dryer problem.

The dryer is the only part of the compressor/dryer assembly that is serviced separately.

The compressor is fused by way of a 50 amp fuse in the engine compartment. Although possible, it is VERY RARE to see this fuse blown. This compressor is so powerful, it will actually break the piston rod when it gets worn.
NOTE: When these compressors start going bad they will draw a lot of current. This is extremely hard on the compressor relay and may cause it to fail. While a new relay may get you going again, the compressor is most likely what caused the relay failure to begin with. Replacing one without the other is usually not a wise move.


COMPRESSOR VENT SOLENOID
The vent solenoid on the compressor is used as a "vent to atmosphere" solenoid. When the module gives the command to vent the car down, this vent solenoid, along with whichever solenoid on the spring that the module needs to vent, opens up and vents air out of the system. This vent solenoid is usually one of the first things to go bad on the Mark VIII compressor assembly. This is due to excessive moisture in the system that allows the piston in the solenoid to rust and corrode. The main reason this solenoid has such a hard time with moisture is because the compressor is mounted on its side. If there's any moisture in the general area of the compressor, the moisture will find its way to the vent solenoid just from gravity.
NOTE: The piston inside the solenoid is metal, so it can't deal with moisture very long before rust starts setting in.


COMPRESSOR RELAY
Since the compressor draws a lot of current, it is powered by a dedicated relay. The relay can be found on the black metal frame the compressor is mounted to. This relay is a solid state relay and is very tricky to test.
NOTE: You can test the old relay by swapping it with the ABS relay. It is the exact same relay. If the compressor goes bad and in turn draws too many amps, this relay will usually go bad.





What problems usually happen on the Mark VIII?


LEAKING AIR SPRINGS

With age, the rubber air bladders of the air springs will dry rot and eventually leak air. The leak will almost always be on the fold of the rubber. This is where the rubber rolls over itself - that area changes with vehicle height. Upon inspection, you may not see any visible cracks until the ride height has been set to where the car has sat most of its life. Once this area has been found, cracks will magically open up on the fold. Click HERE for pictures of this.

Early in the stages of a leak, the air springs will only leak while being driven. Remember that the system is all automatic, so if there is a leak you probably won't realize there's even a problem until one of two things happen:
  1. The leak gets so bad that it leaks more air out than the compressor can put back in.
  2. The compressor is damaged and can't keep up with the load.
As was stated before, in the early stages of a leak it will only leak while being driven. As time goes on, you will probably notice the car going down one or more nights over the course of a week. The number of days the car is down will increase as time goes on.

Even driving the car, the leak will get progressively worse, eventually to the point where you can't drive the car.

REMEMBER THIS:

ANY air compressor produces moisture. When a system has a leak and the compressor has to run several times more often than it would normally, the compressor will produce several times more moisture than it would normally.


MOISTURE PROBLEMS

In time, the moisture absorbing gel beads in the dryer lose their ability to remove the moisture from the incoming air. Moisture is then able to make its way into the rest of the system, turning every low-lying area into a moisture reservoir.

The dryer itself also turns into a reservoir for water. In other words, when the compressor vents, moisture will be blown back through the compressor. This is very hard on a part that was designed to be operated dry. These problems include, but are not limited too:

  • Swelling of the piston rings, which makes the electric motor have to work that much harder to do the same job, also increasing the heat made by the compressor, which is hard on any sealing o-rings in the high heat area.
  • Rusted and corroded compressor vent solenoid
  • Rusted and corroded end plates inside the dryer
  • Rusted and corroded intake & exhaust valves in the compressor
  • Damaged armature & brushes
WHAT CAN BE DONE?

Because so many problems start with a leak, we recommend doing a leak test once a month on any car with air springs over 5 years old. This way, you will find the leak that is at most one month old before it has had a chance to do any prolonged damage.

You can do a leak test without even getting your hands dirty. See HERE for instructions.

In our opinion, about 80% of Mark VIIIs will encounter an excessive moisture problem at one time or another. This is sometimes caused from being operated in a high humidity area and/or an area that is known for lots of rainfall. As was stated before, it can also start from a leak in the system. If you find out you have an excessive moisture problem, you can replace the dryer every couple months.

The faster you find and repair a leak, the smaller your parts & repair bill will be!
 
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Common problems

One end of the car falls to the ground
This is indicative of a leak on the falling end of the vehicle. A sudden drop while driving is typically a catastrophic failure (blow out) and rare unless something happened like hitting a curb, pothole, or other car.

You may also experience a sudden drop while driving over rough roads, or when you flex the suspension a great deal at speed. This is because the cracks/leaks in the bags have been exposed when the air spring is compressed beyond the normal height.

Typically the air spring deflates over time (while parked at work, overnight, etc.) This is a slow leak that should be fixed promptly. Failing to fix the leaking bag will result in your compressor running excessively to keep the air bag(s) inflated, and will cause it to overheat and fail prematurely. See the section below on a detailed leak test procedure.


You get a check suspension light but the air bags are not deflated, or you get a check suspension light at speed on the freeway.
This is because air can’t get out. The system adds air to compensate for loads and to lift the car to driving height. When it wants to remove air (load removed, lower ride height on highway), it vents. The vent solenoid valve on the compressor frequently rusts closed due to moisture in the system (THIS IS WHY YOU MUST FIX LEAKS PROMPTLY) caused by leaking bags or atmospheric conditions. The air compressor is located in a tray in the right front fender of the car. You can remove/replace it by either removing the bumper cover and working in front of the tire, or you can remove it by removing the splash shield and working in with the tire.

This can also be caused by stuck vent solenoids at the air bags. These can be tested by removing them and applying 12 volts to the contacts. An audible click should be noted when applying and removing voltage - the absence of this indicates a faulty vent solenoid.


Check air ride light 90 seconds after key on.
The compressor will turn off after 90 seconds of continuous operation to prevent overheating. It will not run any longer as a fail safe. This is usually indicative of a leak in the system, but could also be a worn out compressor that is not creating enough pressure to inflate the air bags. To search for leaks, use soapy water on all the air line connections (one at each wheel, four in the compressor) while the compressor is running. This is usually also accompanied by lower than normal ride heights or recent system service.


Check suspension light comes on immediately with key on; compressor does not run.
This is usually a power/electrical issue. Quickly rule out the compressor relay by swapping it with the ABS relay, found in the driver's fender. If this solves the problem, you need a new relay. Also check the fuse. The compressor can function while increasingly drawing more and more power to overcome imminent internal failure, until it reaches the fuse limit. When that happens, you need a new compressor.


How can I test the Air Ride Function?
You can run an automated test sequence on the air ride system. If the testing hits a fault, it just stops at that point. The operator monitoring the KNOWN testing sequence is what identifies the fault.

Hold the suspension test connector with the open end of the plug facing you. The top row of terminals (from left to right) are pins 1, 2, 3, 4. The bottom row are 5 and 6.
The wire color for pin 2 is W/LB. Turn the key on, close the door, connect the test light from pin 2 to battery ground, and let the fun begin!

You can also use an OBD-I test scanner:

1. Turn ignition on​
2. Unplug test plug (found near the air cleaner box)​
3. Plug in reader​
4. Flip switch to TEST​
5. Tests run automatically​

Here is the order of testing:
  1. LF solenoid clicked open/close
  2. RF solenoid clicked open/close
  3. Rear solenoids clicked open/close
  4. Compressor vent valve clicks
  5. Compressor runs for a few seconds then shuts off

Then the system does a height sensor test:
  1. Compressor turns on, front valves open, and the front of car should rise. Front valves will click closed, rear valves will click open then the same thing happens for the rear.
  2. Compressor turns off and all valves are closed.
  3. Front solenoids clicked & front lowers
  4. Rear solenoids clicked & rear lowers

If you have access to the Rotunda Super Star II OBD-I tester, you can perform pinpoint air suspension diagnostics. See the section below for details on this process as well as how to retrieve air suspension trouble codes to aid in your diagnostics.
 
Retrieving and Clearing DTCs on the Lincoln Mark VIII
Using a Rotunda Super Star II Tester

From American Air Suspension

____
ATTENTION
Before trying to retrieve any codes in the system, you may want to have the battery and charging system checked. A weak battery will cause all sorts of problems in the air suspension system. AutoZone and a few other auto parts stores will usually do this for free.
____
Function Test Procedure

Note: Run test 211 before running any tests. This will display any trouble codes stored in memory.
  1. Open hood and locate diagnostic connector on front of RH front shock tower (This connector is on the pass. side shock tower and will usually have a black cap reading "SUSP/EVO").
  2. Install battery charger to provide power during testing.
    NOTE: If you have a bad battery (weak cell), you may still experience problems during this test even though you have the battery charger on the vehicle.
  3. Open luggage compartment and ensure air suspension switch is OFF.
  4. Set Super Star II Tester mode switch to FAST and set selector switch to EEC/MCU.
  5. Turn Scan Tool power switch on.
  6. Set HOLD/TEST push button in HOLD position (Button is up)
  7. Turn ignition switch to OFF, then ON.
  8. Ensure both doors on vehicle are closed (the system most likely will not do ANYTHING while the doors are open).
  9. Install Super Star II Tester in diagnostic connector
  10. Press HOLD/TEST button and latch in TEST position (button is down).

    Codes for function tests will be displayed one after the other, cycling every few seconds through each item on the list.
    When the desired test code number appears, release the HOLD/TEST button to hold on the desired test, then depress it when you are ready to run the test. The selected action/test will run until you release the HOLD/TEST button again. Press the HOLD/TEST button to resume cycling through the tests on the display.

    This is an excellent way to test independent parts of the system and/or perform wiggle tests (this is to power up a part, then "wiggle" the connector in order to find a loose connection and/or bad wire). It is also the easiest way to test a ride height sensor, by listening for the beep. The closer the beeps are to each other, the closer to trim height you will be. If you don't hear the beeps, or you heard a beep, then it quits, you know you have a bad sensor.
Test code/description

211Display Code(s) in memory
212LF corner pump, with audible sensor check
213LF corner vent, with audible sensor check
214RF corner pump, with audible sensor check
215RF corner vent, with audible sensor check
216LR corner pump, with audible sensor check
217LR corner vent, with audible sensor check
218RR corner pump, with audible sensor check
219RR corner vent, with audible sensor check
221Compressor Run
222EVO actuator output test (toggles all solenoids and actuator)
223LF corner height sensor trim detection, with audible feedback
224RF corner height sensor trim detection, with audible feedback
225Rear height sensor trim detection, with audible feedback
226Speed sensor detection
227Pulse EVO actuator
228Clear all codes

Unlatch HOLD/TEST button to end selected test and to continue scrolling through the other codes. Relatch button to re-enter code display function.


Suspension trouble codes and possible cause(s)

15No faults stored in memorySome problems don't set a code
18Module detects low batteryBad battery and/or malfunctioning voltage regulator
19Module detects high batteryBad battery and/or malfunctioning voltage regulator
20Module memory errorBad module
25Height sensor power not 5 VoltsMay be a bad sensor or a wiring fault
35EVO actuatorEVO sensor disconnected or a wiring fault
45Steering sensorSensor disconnected or a wiring fault
50LF height sensor out of rangeMay be a bad sensor or a wiring fault
55RF height sensor out of rangeMay be a bad sensor or a wiring fault
60Rear height sensor out of rangeMay be a bad sensor or a wiring fault
70Vent solenoidMay be a bad compressor vent solenoid or a wiring fault
75Compressor relay control circuitMay be a bad relay or a wiring fault
80LF solenoid circuitMay be a bad solenoid or a wiring fault
85RF solenoid circuitMay be a bad solenoid or a wiring fault
90LR solenoid circuitMay be a bad solenoid or a wiring fault
95RR solenoid circuitMay be a bad solenoid or a wiring fault
98Compressor run time exceededAir leaks or weak compressor - compressor 90 second runtime limit reached
99Unable to detect raising or loweringClogged dryer or bad vent solenoid(s)
 
MARK VIII LEAK TESTING
from American Air Suspension​


The Ford shop manual recommends using a soapy water solution for air suspension leak testing. While this is the absolute sure-fire way to leak test, if you don't have the right equipment and/or experience, the results of your test may not be conclusive. The equipment I'm speaking of is not the soapy water solution, but more the vehicle lifting equipment needed to allow you to get under the car and see most of the air spring...."WHILE THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR IS ON THE AIR SPRINGS". An example of this would be a front end rack - the kind of rack that is used to align a vehicle and that the technician has to drive the car up onto. If the rear of the car is on the ground, you can't safely get under it to visibly see all around the air spring. Using a front end rack, you can lift the vehicle up in the air and safely see the entire rubber bladder while performing the test. The problem is, most novice mechanics don't have access to a front end rack. With that being said, here is a much easier and safer approach to leak testing. I will explain this later on, but first let's explain a few things.

First of all, the rubber used on the air spring gets dry rotted mostly on the fold of the rubber, or where the rubber folds around on the bottom. This folded area of the rubber gets the blunt of the punishment and dry rots at a much faster rate than the rest of the rubber. Because this area dry rots faster than the rest, this is where your leak is going to be 99.9% of the time.

The reason the air spring will leak some times and not others, has a lot to do with temperature and most importantly, where the fold of the rubber is. The area of the rubber that's on the fold will change with vehicle height. In other words, the fold of the rubber will be in a different area while the car is being driven (city height) as opposed to when it is sitting still (vented/highway or parked height). If the dry rotted area of the rubber is "on the fold", this will open up any cracks in the rubber and allow air to escape.

Keep in mind that ALL the air springs have their own vent solenoid. The solenoid acts as a gate for air. No air should go in or out unless the solenoid is opened up by the control module. By turning the suspension switch off, you're disabling the solenoids, thus no air should escape... unless of course, there's a leak.


THE "EASY WAY" TO FIND A LEAK

By far, the easiest way to test for a leak is to allow the car to vent down after shutting off the engine and opening and closing the door.

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THE CAR HAS LOWERED PRIOR TO TURNING THE SUSPENSION SWITCH OFF, OR THE TEST WON'T BE ACCURATE!

If nothing else, wait 5 minutes after you turn the ignition off, then turn the suspension switch off. The car should have vented by then.

After this, turn the suspension switch off and measure the height of the 4 corners of the car with a tape measure and write it down.

Now drive the vehicle for a few days, or until there's a noticeable difference in ride height. Don't try to drive the car if the car is noticeably low!

If the vehicle has a leak, the car will have gone down after driving.

NOTE: Depending on the severity of the leak, it may take more than one day to leak down. This is the case more times than you would think.

By all means, if the car goes down after 10 minutes of driving, turn the switch back on and resume your journey. You have answered your question.


Could it just be a leaky solenoid?

Most of the time, if the solenoid has never been removed before, most likely the leak isn't from the o-rings that seal the solenoid to the air spring. If the solenoid had EVER been removed before, the o-rings should have been replaced at that time. If you have an old o-ring that has never seen the light of day and all of the sudden, after 10 years of being cooped up, it is released from tension, it will expand. If reused, it WILL eventually cause a leak. It might take a day, a month, or even a year, but it WILL leak at some point down the road.

In other words, if you replace your air springs, make sure you replace the 2x o-rings that seal the solenoid to the air spring. If you don't, it's not a matter of "IF" it will leak, but more like "WHEN". It would be in your best interest to also replace the little o-ring that seals the air line to the solenoid at the same time. Since this o-ring is AFTER the actual sealing part of the solenoid, if this o-ring leaks, it will only affect the operation of the system while the solenoid is opened, like when the module is making a height adjustment - not while sitting overnight.
 
Why does the Mark VIII leak some days, but not others?

It's hard to explain, but the location of the fold of the rubber (where the rubber bladder on the shock wraps around on the bottom) changes with vehicle height. The entire rubber bladder is only 12 inches long and usually only 1 to 1-1/2 inches of this bladder is dry rotted. The worst of the dry rot is where the fold of the rubber is usually at.

The picture below shows a shock that is compressed a bit. This would be an example of "curb height". You can see the cracks on the fold of the rubber magically appear and open up; if the air spring had air in it, it would leak.​

1737831165648.jpeg
An air spring compressed, showing the cracks being exposed along the fold of the rubber. This is how the air spring looks when the vehicle is parked or when the car is moving faster than 55 MPH.

Below, you'll see that when the shock and air spring is extended, which is an example of "city height"; you can't see any cracks. This is because the cracks are not exposed or opened from the fold of the rubber. In the early stages of failure, the cracks will often seal.

1737831176679.jpeg
An air spring extended, showing the same cracks are now sealed. This is similar to how it looks at "city height".


Why does it leak at highway speeds, but not around town?

While the car is moving at lower speeds (under 45-55 MPH), like through the city, the car benefits from additional ground clearance to clear roadside gutters, speed bumps, potholes and such. This is often called "city height". The car will raise itself to this height automatically when the car is started and stay at this height until the speed gets to approx. 55 mph. After the car reaches this speed and maintains it for at least 30 seconds, the car will lower itself (.8" on 93-94s, .5" after) itself to make itself more aerodynamic and stable. This is the same height the car is parked at, and is known as either "curb height" or "trim height".

When the speed drops below 45 for at least 10 seconds, the car will raise back up to "city height" and stay there until the car is either driven to highway speeds again or the car is parked and shut off. After the car is shut off and the door is closed, the system will lower to curb/trim height again, which is the same height as it drops to at high speeds.


What height is the car at most of the time?

Trim height. This is where most of the dry rotted area will be.

Let's add it up.

The car sits at "curb height" for something like 14 hours after you come home from work, plus it rides at this height whenever going 55+.

The only time the car is at "city height" is while the car is running (even idling) and while moving at lower speeds. Even if you had to drive 1 hour to work, 1 hour home, then take 1 hour after work to go to the store and run errands, the car is not often at "city height".

Out of a 24 hour period, the car may be at "city height" for only 2 or 3 hours. The rest of the time, the car would be at "curb height".
 
How to reseal an air solenoid
First, TURN OFF THE SUSPENSION SWITCH in the trunk and put the car on jack stands.
NOTE: Put the jack stands under the frame, not under the control arm!

Disconnect the 2 pin electrical connector and then disconnect the air line by pushing the orange collar in towards the solenoid body, then pull the line out. If the line has never been removed, the brass collet may be "dug-in" to the line and may require some patience. If it doesn't want to release the line, try pushing the line in with one hand while pushing the orange collar in with the other hand.

To remove the solenoids, remove the safety clip that keeps the solenoid from accidentally twisting. You can do this with a flat head screw driver.

Twist the solenoids till they stop. The solenoid has a 2 step removal process. After it has been turned to the first stop it will be ejected slightly and ALL THE AIR IN THE SPRING WILL RUSH OUT VERY QUICKLY. If they've never been removed before, you may have to help twist it with a screwdriver or something. Take care when doing this; the solenoid "should" stop at the first stop but it can still pop off and hit someone in the head. Turn your head when you twist the solenoid.

After the air has stopped rushing out, twist it again and pull it out. Pull off the old o-rings and replace them with the new ones that have been lubricated with dielectric grease. Install the 2 new o-rings while keeping the nylon washer between them. Dielectric grease doesn't seem to attack the rubber like petroleum jelly. If you don't lubricate them with something, they will bind and probably won't seal as well as the old ones, which means you did all this for nothing.

To replace the o-ring that seals the air line, first remove the orange collar. Then carefully remove the brass collet (it's easily crushed) and remove the little nylon washer, then the old o-ring. See picture below


resealing%20solenoids.jpg

Install the new, smaller o-ring in the hole of the solenoid, making sure it's flat and seated, then the little nylon washer. Make sure both are flat and seated. Install the brass collet and then the orange collar.

After these o-rings are replaced, install the solenoids, plug in air line and 2 pin connector then remove from jack stands.

NOTE: Install the air lines into DRY.

We DO NOT recommend using ANY type of lubricant when installing the air lines into the dryer or solenoid for 2 reasons:

#1) The lines are held in by way of a collet. The small jaws of the collet hold the air line into place. If you put a lubricant on the line, the line could pop out and would result in a major leak, which would allow the front and/or rear of the vehicle to lower all the way down to the bump-stops and most likely do serious damage to the compressor.

#2) The air line o-rings are NOT designed to be in contact with ANY foreign substance! In other words, using a lubricant on the lines on installation will almost certainly cause reduce the life of the sealing o-rings, thus causing a leak.
 
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