Cam position sensor

Not that I recommend taking a road trip in a car with known issues, but a failed cam sensor won’t leave you stranded. Worst case you can unplug it completely, and then the car may be hard to start, and your tach probably won’t work, and it may have some hesitation, but it won’t leave you on the side of the road.
 
Someone school me on the cam sensor's duties in the 3.8 with EDIS. My experience with the 3.8 was the distributor'd version...
 
Basically injector timing and to a lesser extent crank sensor redundancy. With only the crank sensor, the ECM can’t distinguish TDC compression from TDC exhaust. With waste spark, that doesn’t really matter for ignition since it fires on both cylinders at the same time, but it is important for fuel. Without a cam sensor signal, the ECM won’t know when to fire injectors, and may have to crank it a few times while it is looking for the signal. Once the computer confirms no signal, it will revert to batch fire for the injectors, which is not as smooth or efficient, but will run down the road just fine to get you home. Once the car is running, the ECM also uses the cam sensor to check against the crank sensor to get the most up to date information on engine position and speed. Crank sensor will get you close enough to run, but with both of them it is more accurate.
 
Is this accompanied by hesitation or a momentary drop to zero of the tach needle even though the engine is running?

It's been about 5 years since I've driven it. But neither of those things happen. Pulling codes on an EEC-IV is a different story also.
 
Someone school me on the cam sensor's duties in the 3.8 with EDIS. My experience with the 3.8 was the distributor'd version...
It takes place of the PIP in the distributer, same duty it's just there by itself
 
@MadMikeyL , @XR7-4.6 :

How does all this relate to my symptoms?
If I understand you correctly, there's sort of a redundancy between the two sensors.

My car starts fine now. Just drove it around the block. It accelerated fine a few times. Then again, during acceleration a short burst of hesitation. Rpm indicated at zero for a second even though actual rpm stayed the same.

If the two sensors sort of share a responsibility, I would say if one is faulty, the other one could cover for it.

I'll look at the cam sensor tomorrow. Is there anything I look for in terms of visual inspection or Multimeter testing?

And what is the risk that this is all due to a faulty PCM?
 
I'll look at the cam sensor tomorrow. Is there anything I look for in terms of visual inspection or Multimeter testing?

A graphing multimeter or oscilloscope would be the best to determine waveform / dropouts in voltage, etc .. the camshaft uses a hall effect sensor and the magnitude is proportionate to the sensor position.

And what is the risk that this is all due to a faulty PCM?

Least likely .. but still a possibility.
 
You should see it after you removed the coil pack. You're looking for the cam sensor?

Joe
 
Yes. Got it out without removing the coil base. You need small hands!

Wires look fine. Sensor and whatever that is under the sensor look dirty; but what else is new? This doesn't seem to be a Motorcraft part (?).

20231010_083143.jpg20231010_083152.jpg20231010_083302.jpg20231010_083330.jpg
 
That synchronizer looks OK, although the metal shavings sticking to the magnet on the sensor are a little concerning, it could be the bearings in the synchronizer starting to go. At this point, I would clean everything out real good, install a new sensor, and see what happens. If it still acts up, you may need to replace the whole synchronizer assembly.
 
Another curiosity:

Looking up the camshaft sensor for my car, sites such as Rockauto and Advance Auto give me both 3-wire (like stock) and 4-wire sensors, saying they were both compatible with my car.

What am I missing?!
 
Another curiosity:

Looking up the camshaft sensor for my car, sites such as Rockauto and Advance Auto give me both 3-wire (like stock) and 4-wire sensors, saying they were both compatible with my car.

What am I missing?!

Answering my own question, there appears to be some database error. Look up camshaft sensors for '97 Cougar V6, and you get different results.

Meanwhile, at Advance Auto: camshaft sensor for '97 Thunderbird V6 please. Who makes that, Pontiac?
 
Alright...

I replaced the camshaft sensor with the most affordable unit I could find locally. Prior to that I cleaned out that area as best as possible without removing that synchronizer.

And...test drive...it actually appears to have fixed it. No codes. No hesitation or sudden loss of power. I drove for about 10 minutes, including gentle acceleration, brisk acceleration (well, V6 brisk). Knock on wood, I think I'm back in business.
 
With the generally low mileage of your car that should take care of it. In high mileage situations as MadMikey stated the shaft bushings go bad then the shaft wobbles until it wrecks itself.
 
I just checked identifix for your car with the v6 and all the fixes related to P0320 is crank sensor. Or crank sensor wiring or bad harmonic balancer.
 
So...just thinking, the wires going into the crank sensor are blue and grey.

Looking at the main connector on the firewall, you can see the blue and grey wires. And see those tiny cuts?

No idea what caused that. It's always been in that state.

Could those tiny cuts cause some sort of interference?

20231010_163323.jpg
 
I just changed mine out, only casualties are skinned knuckles and the piece of the clip that holds it snapped off, ugh!! I taped it up good so hopefully that isn’t an issue down the road. Haven’t road tested it yet because of earlier skinned knuckles.

Here’s a picture of mine. Can’t tell if it looks burnt or what. Feels like dielectric grease, anyway hopefully this takes care of it.

Joe

IMG_6250.jpeg
 

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