Chingon's Engine Build

@XR7-4.6 that’s due to the cams right? I’ve heard or people tuning crazy cams who need vacuum pumps to help with the brake booster.
 
Today I got back the aluminum V brace my buddy was making for me. This thing is wayyyyy lighter than the steel one haha

my only problem now is the lower bracket where the V bolts too came apart. The spot weld ripped up, sucks ass. I was thinking of either hitting up my buddy to weld it back up orrr maybe try one of those epoxies. I seen 3m dp420 is a really strong epoxy which I’m hoping should be enough to hold it in place of welding.

I also got the bumper reinforcement done since I had removed the stock piece in order to install the intercooler. My question is, since it was spot welded on should I weld this bar back on or can I get away with bolting it in place??







IMG_7636.jpeg
 
I'm having a hard time imagining what you need to weld/epoxy, but I don't know if I would trust an epoxy adhesive in the place of a weld.

Does the bumper reinforcement just span the frame rails side to side? I don't think I'd have any problem bolting that in place.
 
@KevinVarnes

I’m talking about this lower section, where the V bolts up too. The piece of metal ripped the spot welds off and I just put sheet metal screws in the mean time. I’ve heard great things of that 3m epoxy, and from the promo video it’s very strong. But like you say, can’t beat an actual weld.

Yea it only spans from frame rail to rail. I just don’t wanna go through the hassle of drilling out the holes on the bar plates when welding it in place would be better.






IMG_7643.jpeg


Also I juuuuust replaced the alternator, removed the old one and it had some small pieces of metal falling out….. I guess it don’t like the new 6500rpm redline 😬

IMG_7642.jpeg
 
They use a lot of epoxies to bond panels together these days, so I'm sure it is good stuff. I'd be willing to bet it isn't cheap.

I think welding or bolting that cross brace would work just fine. Whichever is easiest/more convenient for you.
 
Got a chance today to throw on the bumber bar, bolted on as best I could. It definitely helps with the rigidity of the car, it’s not as loose up front.


Aaaallllsssoooooo, the stupid braided pressure side power steering hose ripped 😤 gonna have to get the OEM style for now to get me around.


*edit* it seems like the fitting ends are reusable?? Is it really as easy as buying the hose and installing these same ends??

www.summitracing.com

Aeroquip FBM1103 Aeroquip Reusable PTFE Fittings | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Aeroquip Reusable PTFE Fittings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Hose Ends at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

www.summitracing.com

Aeroquip FBM1112 Aeroquip Reusable PTFE Fittings | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Aeroquip Reusable PTFE Fittings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Hose Ends at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

IMG_7724.jpegIMG_7722.jpeg
 
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The fittings are reusable, I had to redo mine to get the length just right
 
@XR7-4.6 perfect I had asked my buddy and he was talking about getting new crush olives but I don’t think these have that.
 
Chingon1 said:
Got a chance today to throw on the bumber bar, bolted on as best I could. It definitely helps with the rigidity of the car, it’s not as loose up front.


Aaaallllsssoooooo, the stupid braided pressure side power steering hose ripped 😤 gonna have to get the OEM style for now to get me around.


*edit* it seems like the fitting ends are reusable?? Is it really as easy as buying the hose and installing these same ends??

www.summitracing.com

Aeroquip FBM1103 Aeroquip Reusable PTFE Fittings | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Aeroquip Reusable PTFE Fittings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Hose Ends at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

www.summitracing.com

Aeroquip FBM1112 Aeroquip Reusable PTFE Fittings | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Aeroquip Reusable PTFE Fittings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Hose Ends at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

View attachment 12824View attachment 12826
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That's a HUGE AC Condenser you got there! :LOL: ... BTW who's trunk is that in the V-brace photo?
 
@Trunk Monkey I’m not sure i found in Google, to highlight the bottom piece that ripped the spot welds off and needs to be rewelded orrrr epoxied on.
 
Chingon1 said:
@Trunk Monkey I’m not sure i found in Google, to highlight the bottom piece that ripped the spot welds off and needs to be rewelded orrrr epoxied on.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I was joking. I knew exactly who that car belongs to. :thumbsup:

Not sure where it was posted but that's a picture that I took of my car and my trunk when I was installing my stereo system.
 
Trunk Monkey said:
Thanks. I was joking. I knew exactly who that car belongs to. :thumbsup:

Not sure where it was posted but that's a picture that I took of my car and my trunk when I was installing my stereo system.
Click to expand...


Haha no way! I think it was TCCOA, I like that setup, what subwoofers are you running?? I have this Dayton audio umi 2 10” that I wanna build a sealed box for.
 
Chingon1 said:
Haha no way! I think it was TCCOA, I like that setup, what subwoofers are you running?? I have this Dayton audio umi 2 10” that I wanna build a sealed box for.
Click to expand...

I have a pair of JL AUDIO 10W1v3-4 in a sealed box.

If you haven’t seen it, I copied my build thread here. See the link below for details.

Trunk Monkey

Thread 'Looking for Car Audio Suggestions - Best of 2020'

Originally Posted: May 24, 2020

I'm going to tackle upgrading the stereo in the car finally. If you guys were to upgrade your stereo what would be your choice for a head unit in 2020?

Would you go single DIN with a pop-out screen? Single DIN with a standard display? Or fab up a Double DIN configuration? I've also considered installing an iPad mini but I don't have the fab skills to modify the dash. There's also the floating display ALPINE HALO in either 9" or 11" display. I was looking at these but the resolution on the display is atrocious and I think the 11" might be just too big for a...
 
@Trunk Monkey just check it out, I like the extensive use of second skin 👍 I used some stuff called siless 2 step kinda like yours but cheaper. Pretty much copied you except for the roof, which is like to do one day. I had my eye on the w6 13.5, buddy had one and it was surprisingly aggressive bass.
 
Chingon1 said:
@Trunk Monkey just check it out, I like the extensive use of second skin 👍 I used some stuff called siless 2 step kinda like yours but cheaper. Pretty much copied you except for the roof, which is like to do one day. I had my eye on the w6 13.5, buddy had one and it was surprisingly aggressive bass.
Click to expand...

Wow! The 13.5 is a beast. In hindsight I wish I'd have gone with something larger than two 10's and possibly a ported vs. sealed box. They still thump though!

Crutchfield is showing "No longer available". I wonder if it's discontinued and something newer is coming?


Anyway, great build you have going there can't wait to see it progress.
 
I came across these 2 videos of a 1st gen mustang that were pretty interesting. First is a video of the stock strut rod bushing being put through the paces, then a heim strut rod. The difference is unbelievable!! What are you guys thoughts on such a mod for the birds?? I know a couple guys have em over in the FB group Stephen Sokol and JM Hayes if I remember correctly.

Since you guys know wassup, how bad would the geometry be off by pushing the pivot point outside the original spot?





I wouldn’t really mind the added NVH from something like this. My bird already got solid aluminum control arm side strut rod bushings and didn’t notice anything.
 
I’d just get the AJE K member and take the strut rods out of the equation. The setups I saw from the FB group look kinda sketchy to me, it’s one thing with straight rods like those 60s-70s Fords but having to add that bend in them our cars need makes me queasy.

I’m happy with my poly Continental bushings personally, those took out the vast majority of the stock rubber slop
 
@XR7-4.6 yeaaa I don’t have aje money haha, I’d rather spend that on a set of kooks. Are you going to get that kmember any time soon??

Yea definitely I don’t like that bend either when trying to make a whole new rod, maybe if you added a plate on top on the bend side but that would take away space from the tie rods. I did see Stephen’s style where he just sleeved the stock arm and put the heim at the end. IMG_7871.jpegIMG_7867.jpegIMG_7874.jpeg
 
Sleeping the stock strut rod would be the best way, the one on the bottom, is the one that comes to mind I don’t trust

No AJE for me, the weight savings isn’t enough for me to justify it. I had my K member completely off to put the headers in and tool access was still near impossible lol
 
@XR7-4.6 the weight saving are worth it to me, but since I ported my heads and added the vortech I’m sure I’d get more benefit from a free flowing exhaust.

Also, grab a 2nd strut rod at the JY yesterday. Along with some 3/4” heim joints and 11/4” chromoly tube. If all goes well the fabricator will have the heim strut rods soon. I’m really over the stock weak ass bushing.

IMG_7922.jpeg
 
The fabricator sent me a drawing of the mounting point for the heims. Looks pretty sweet, since he has a CNC machine, thats how he’s gonna cut it out.

Hopefully Saturday he has time to knock it out. I’m hoping the install should go fairly easy since I’ll be cutting out the old rods instead of disassembling everything. If all goes well I should have another set of rods that will also get modified if anybody is interested.




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