Chingon's Engine Build

None of the timing cover bolt holes are “wet”(actually I can’t think of any in the mod motors that are)
 
XR7-4.6 said:
None of the timing cover bolt holes are “wet”(actually I can’t think of any in the mod motors that are)
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That’s super weird, my pops and I literally took of the charger bracket and left the 2 bolts out and had 0 leaks, out the bracket back on and the leak came back. Pretty frustrated at this point.

I start my new job tomorrow so I’ll have a lil time after work to try something out.

Thanks for the info btw
 
I thought there was a bolt that would leak but the explorer front cover had that bolt. am I on crack?
 
KevinVarnes said:
What is leaking? Oil, coolant, something else?
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It’s leaking engine oil from the timing cover in that general area. It’s the same leak from prior rebuild that killed my engine 😭
Grog6 said:
I thought there was a bolt that would leak but the explorer front cover had that bolt. am I on crack?
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if so we’re both on crack haha
 
What is immediately behind the cover? Just the chains and guides?

Is it the correct bolt to be using there? Should it be shorter or longer, perhaps?

Is the cover metal fatigued and installing the bolt separate / crack the metal enough?

How fast / slow is the leak?
 
XR7-4.6 said:
It’s could be a PS pump leak if it’s in that area,
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Nahh it’s the opposite side of the cover.
CDsDontBurn said:
What is immediately behind the cover? Just the chains and guides?

Is it the correct bolt to be using there? Should it be shorter or longer, perhaps?

Is the cover metal fatigued and installing the bolt separate / crack the metal enough?

How fast / slow is the leak?
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It’s a steady leak, not GUSHING but it definitely don’t stop. And behind the cover is just the chain and guides.



1 cool thing I noticed is, with the charger in there is basically no chop. When I removed the charger to check for the leak, it chopped so cool for some reason, not sure why that is.
 
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Front covers get holes worn in them from the belt tensioner. move it and look behind pullies.this is inside the front cover:

DSC01231.JPG

This is an 04 towncar motor.
 
Note the plastic tensioners. Those, and everything else on the front was replaced. I rebuilt my iron tensioners, and that plastic on the sliders fails early, and clogs the oil pickup. It was changed by 07. This id why 5.4's break chains; 4" longer chains, poor tension w/closed throttle low rpms.
Ours have ratchets to prevent slop.
 
Grog6 said:
Front covers get holes worn in them from the belt tensioner. move it and look behind pullies.this is inside the front cover:

View attachment 17565

This is an 04 towncar motor.
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What do you mean by worm holes??

I did the racket mod to my iron tensioner while they were out, supposedly they help when you 2 step or bang off the limiter.
 
How do you get wormholes from HOLES WORN IN THE FRONT COVER. Seriously. It's not that rare, if you leave the idler long enough.
And I'm the stoner here, lol.
 
Grog6 said:
How do you get wormholes from HOLES WORN IN THE FRONT COVER. Seriously. It's not that rare, if you leave the idler long enough.
And I'm the stoner here, lol.
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😂😅 my bad the dank got me reading something different haha I’m gonna take the bracket off Thursday an check it out. Kinda wanna get a bore scope to get a gooder look in there since it’s so dang tight.

 
It's 3 bolts for the tensioner, one for the idler, and look along where the belt runs, but, if it's a belt hole, the belt will be oily.

Edit: more toys are cool too. hell, you could diy colonoscopy with that, lol.
 
Dirty bird here, havnt left this spot in MONTHS.

Anyways, I put the front bumper together and tightened up the control arms today. In the oicture in point at the point in the hood where the plenum is LITERALLY pushing up against the hood. I REALLY don’t want to buy a higher hood. Kinda jut wanna cut a small hole and put a scoop on it.
 

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Chingon1 said:
Dirty bird here, havnt left this spot in MONTHS.

Anyways, I put the front bumper together and tightened up the control arms today. In the oicture in point at the point in the hood where the plenum is LITERALLY pushing up against the hood. I REALLY don’t want to buy a higher hood. Kinda jut wanna cut a small hole and put a scoop on it.
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Or get a couple 1/2” x 2” T6061 aluminum blocks and put them between the K member and frame rails to lower the engine, that’s what I did to get my DOHC to clear the stock hood.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Or get a couple 1/2” x 2” T6061 aluminum blocks and put them between the K member and frame rails to lower the engine, that’s what I did to get my DOHC to clear the stock hood.
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Would that affect the handling in anyway? Kinda seems like it’ll change the camber curves a smidge. I’m not appointed to it. I already have some aluminum wheels n me I could use.
 
Chingon1 said:
Would that affect the handling in anyway? Kinda seems like it’ll change the camber curves a smidge. I’m not appointed to it. I already have some aluminum wheels n me I could use.
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At that thickness not detrimentally, I think you’d need 1” or thicker to hurt the geometry
 
It'll change the uca angle a tiny amount, but if you get it aligned after, it will be normal.
The lca is attached to the k, the upper to the body. This loses a tiny amount of the range of the ball joints, similar to lowering springs.
It adjusts out of the allignment.
 
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XR7-4.6 said:
At that thickness not detrimentally, I think you’d need 1” or thicker to hurt the geometry
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For sure thanks for the tip, I definitely didn’t want to cut the hood. So 1/2” thick by 2” long, I know the mounting pads aren’t very big at all. Do you have pictures of yours??
Grog6 said:
It'll change the uca angle a tiny amount, but if you get it aligned after, it will be normal.
The lca is attached to the k, the upper to the body. This loses a tiny amount of the range of the ball joints, similar to lowering springs.
It adjusts out of the allignment.
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I do need to align it anyways, it currently has a weak alignment from when I dropped the arms. Thank you!
 
Chingon1 said:
Dirty bird here, havnt left this spot in MONTHS.

Anyways, I put the front bumper together and tightened up the control arms today. In the oicture in point at the point in the hood where the plenum is LITERALLY pushing up against the hood. I REALLY don’t want to buy a higher hood. Kinda jut wanna cut a small hole and put a scoop on it.
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I see industrial strength zip ties poking out from under the hood so at least your head is in the right place. Can you just cut away some of the bracing on the bottom of the hood or is the interference more severe than that?
 
Chingon1 said:
For sure thanks for the tip, I definitely didn’t want to cut the hood. So 1/2” thick by 2” long, I know the mounting pads aren’t very big at all. Do you have pictures of yours??

I do need to align it anyways, it currently has a weak alignment from when I dropped the arms. Thank you!
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IMG_6917.jpeg
 
I shimmed mine down 3/4". I ended up having to shim the sway bar down as well, but I plan to look at that again. I think the AJE K member may have had some fault there as well as the backwards upper A arms.
 
Zep5.0 said:
I shimmed mine down 3/4". I ended up having to shim the sway bar down as well, but I plan to look at that again. I think the AJE K member may have had some fault there as well as the backwards upper A arms.
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Thanks for the tip, the plenum is DEFINITELY hitting the hood and no bueno.

I finally got the tune decent enough for it to drive a lil bit and idle. Still a little lean but I can’t seem to get the damn AEM gauge and sct to data log correctly. So just tuning by looking at the AD counts and AFR.

 
If You're running the analog signal to the xcal, you need to also run the ground from the wideband and the signal twisted together to the xcal input, grounding elsewhere adds shitloads of noise. If you're using a Mac printer cable, get a shielded one.
 
Grog6 said:
If You're running the analog signal to the xcal, you need to also run the ground from the wideband and the signal twisted together to the xcal input, grounding elsewhere adds shitloads of noise. If you're using a Mac printer cable, get a shielded one.
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IMG_0739.jpeg


I currently have the gauge wired up EXACTLY like this, sorry for my ignorance but I don’t know what analogy means. The ground on the X4 in not grounded to nothing.
 
Chingon1 said:
Thanks for the tip, the plenum is DEFINITELY hitting the hood and no bueno.

I finally got the tune decent enough for it to drive a lil bit and idle. Still a little lean but I can’t seem to get the damn AEM gauge and sct to data log correctly. So just tuning by looking at the AD counts and AFR.

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Niiiiiice!

I’ve never been a fan of AEM gauges, I’ve always like Autometer, but they are expensive.
IMG_4904.jpeg
 
Ericv8thunderbird said:
Niiiiiice!

I’ve never been a fan of AEM gauges, I’ve always like Autometer, but they are expensive.
View attachment 18513
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I’m a huge fan too, honestly I’m not sure why I went that route. Maybe wanting to change it up I guess. My other gauges are automates either. They are a brand called glow shift. They are nice tho, stay blacked out til they turn on and change to pretty much whatever color you want. IMG_0748.jpegIMG_0747.jpeg
 
I use aem. the problem you're having is no ground.
since you didn't hook it up, it's using the odb2 ports ground, which is for digital signals, and sux balls. You need a ground thats referenced to the signal you want, the ground at the aem gage, and it needs to be run along with the signal all the way to the xcal2's pins.
Note there is a ground, use it.
 
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