Kooks EGR fitting

Maybe it’s too late but, what heads are you running? Early gen C heads?? Or later C? I’m pretty sure the kooks headers are based on the b head exhaust ports that’s why they won’t match up. If your running DB or DC casting from a mach or cobra

Also also, I used ford performance exhaust gaskets on my 2V with SS studs off eBay and I havnt retightened them or had any leaks so far and it’s gone through a couple heat cycles already.
 
KevinVarnes said:
Remflex says 20 ft-lbs for the gaskets. And this:
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Chingon1 said:
Maybe it’s too late but, what heads are you running? Early gen C heads?? Or later C? I’m pretty sure the kooks headers are based on the b head exhaust ports that’s why they won’t match up. If your running DB or DC casting from a mach or cobra

Also also, I used ford performance exhaust gaskets on my 2V with SS studs off eBay and I havnt retightened them or had any leaks so far and it’s gone through a couple heat cycles already.
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Later C heads, however the matchup isn’t them being oval vs rectangular C heads but that the kooks port is actually LARGER than the later C head port. Which is a good thing for flow, but not so good for gasket fit as I’d otherwise be able to use the same 03-04 Cobra MLS gaskets I currently have with manifolds. That’s where the GT500 MLS gasket come into play as where the bolt pattern is different funnily enough those extra large exhaust ports are almost identical to the SCP Kooks.

What is a bit of an issue however is with gaskets like remflex, as I have been researching this extensively the last few days as you can imagine and have seen threads on places like SVTperformance that they do have the 99-01 port shape which would be a restriction with my heads. It’s solvable with some dremeling but so is the GT500 MLS and so remains the debate for me. Both would need to be modified with the GT500 gaskets being the (substantially) more expensive of the two but I still am tending to lean towards them, but it’s like 51:49 atm and I really need to make a decision soon, so I’m stressing a bit.



Oh since I’m deep in Pandora’s box also what’s the general attitude of one piece flanges vs individual flanges? This thought popped up from a memory talking to Oscar when he was making(well planning to make) headers where he seemed to favor the latter. Kooks are one piece(on the passenger side) but I am perfectly willing to take a death wheel to them to separate them if it means a better seal and not risking warpage from heat cycles
 
MadMikeyL said:
Separate flanges may seal better the first time, but if you ever have to take them off and reinstall them after countless heat cycles, everything probably isn’t going to line up anymore.
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Good point, that’s how my used MACs are, I’ll just leave the Kooks be

Oh I ordered the Remflexes 😆
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Good point, that’s how my used MACs are, I’ll just leave the Kooks be

Oh I ordered the Remflexes 😆
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I was going to say, just make a decision and go with it. I am guessing either gasket will work just fine for you. I hope the Remflex gaskets work well. With how tight everything is in that engine bay I can understand the consternation over trying to make the best choice.
 
KevinVarnes said:
I was going to say, just make a decision and go with it. I am guessing either gasket will work just fine for you. I hope the Remflex gaskets work well. With how tight everything is in that engine bay I can understand the consternation over trying to make the best choice.
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One way or another I was buying them this weekend. I’ve had the luxury to procrastinate with excuses like the cam swap and seeking out a few other odds and ends(I still am but they won’t preclude me from running open headers at least lol). It was kind of a coin flip for me in the end but 3ish days ain’t bad for my indecisiveness. I thought stock gaskets for my heads would work until a few days ago, I did literally zero research into header gaskets until this last week really
 
KevinVarnes said:
Splash some anti-seize on those threads in case you ever have to take that cap back off in the future. I like to use the Motorcraft high temp nickel anti-seize for exhaust, but anything is better than nothing.
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For 304 stainless? I mean I liberally use antisieze on literally every thread on my car that’s not saturated in oil but I figure this should be more than ok as is. In general I’ve never used it on EGR tubes and never had any problem getting them off even in rusty cars apart from wrench clearance, though I guess with this cap and its knurled ends it could pose some more challenge if it gets stuck
 
The words stainless and threads always makes me shudder. The threads can gall. As you do, I coat everything I touch on my cars in anti-seize. If you are ever looking for investment opportunities, look for companies that make anti-seize. I would buy it in 5 gallon pails if they sold it like...and holy crap I think I just found some. https://www.actionis.com/loctite-re...ize-lubricant-5-gal-pail-paste-gray-1-1?gQT=1
 
KevinVarnes said:
The words stainless and threads always makes me shudder. The threads can gall. As you do, I coat everything I touch on my cars in anti-seize. If you are ever looking for investment opportunities, look for companies that make anti-seize. I would buy it in 5 gallon pails if they sold it like...and holy crap I think I just found some. https://www.actionis.com/loctite-re...ize-lubricant-5-gal-pail-paste-gray-1-1?gQT=1
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Dang, you're like the P Diddy of the car world😆
 
I'm not really sure what that means, but if he is obsessed with keeping rusted car parts from permanently fusing together so they can be repaired at a later date, then I'm your man.
 
KevinVarnes said:
I'm not really sure what that means, but if he is obsessed with keeping rusted car parts from permanently fusing together so they can be repaired at a later date, then I'm your man.
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I mean I’ll just throw some antisieze on just because, but I've been using SS hardware on my exhaust since 2010ish(?) and I never bothered with the antisieze on those for the facts that they were stainless and if they did seize in the spots I placed them I could cut them off easily, but I've never needed to do that.

You guys keep making my headers so complicated, geez! :tongue:
 
KevinVarnes said:
I'm not really sure what that means, but if he is obsessed with keeping rusted car parts from permanently fusing together so they can be repaired at a later date, then I'm your man.
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I don't either, but I assume it's a reference to a godawful rap song or grooming thing related to him so I laughed anyway lol

Like I said I'll just throw some on there, I've always got a bottle of antisieze at arms reach at all times and am not afraid to use it, but I just don't see how this grade of 304 stainless is possibly fusing together:zshrug:
 
Stainless gets 'porous' when it gets hot, it's not like normal steel. Could be worse,Titanium is twice as bad,lol. I'll never let oscar forget about making those, lol.
 
Grog6 said:
Stainless gets 'porous' when it gets hot, it's not like normal steel. Could be worse,Titanium is twice as bad,lol. I'll never let oscar forget about making those, lol.
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I'd just like it known if I seem naive about header/metal properties in this thread I learned it all from Oscar lol
 
I didn't know shit about stainless until I got a job working with it everyday. a 1/4-20 bolt will twist off easily if you forget the antisieze. Getting that piece out of a $250 flange before the boss sees your fuckup is a bitch. Not a mistake you make twice.
Also, a fingerprint of antisieze will never pump down in a high vacuum system. :facepalm:
 
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