Leaking like a sieve!

[Generalee0527]

Well it sucks to have coolant leaks in the dead of winter. No fun working on it as it has to be cool to work on it but the wind is a continuous irritant and you can't ignore it and keep going. Since I tolerated no heat last winter when I by-passed the core as I had just replaced the intake gaskets to stop a leak under the intake. So here I am now adding water/coolant little at a time since replacing the heater core in Sept. So I noticed it was leaking g at the overflow tank cap. New cap, started leaking at heater core connection. Tighten clamps a little more. Now I can't drive more than 5 miles after tipping off till low coolant lite comes on and the tank is almost dry. For the life of me I can't seem to locate it. Put a half bottle of bars stop leak in and no help at all. Replaced t-stat o-ring as it appeared to leak there for a time but now is tight. The other day I thought I saw a wet spot on right front under the alum crossover. Not much but was wet. When I check under car it is dripping from the inspection plate at trans and block . I am beginning to wonder if there is a bad freeze plug as I haven't found the source. Seems it only leaks after shut off and cool down when I wouldn't expect it. I am ready to start beating on things w/ my bfh!

 

[Grog6]

Unless you replaced it,there's a 1" piece of rubber tubing between the pump nipple and the heater return line.
It's a suction line,so it sucks air running.
I fixed my intakes with a pi intake and lines.
when it leaks there it drains into the valley between the heads,and thsn drains down the back of the enginebunder the bellhousing.

 

[Kidd-7]

Auto parts stores will rent a coolant system pressure tester. You hook it up, pressurize the system with a pump, I believe ours are rated at 15psi, then look for any peeing.
This has helped me diagnose coolant leaks many times.
I’d also say look for green stains. I had an S10 years ago that kept losing coolant, no puddles. Eventually I found the top of the tranny to be green, wherever it was leaking from it burned off the tranny before it hit the ground.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Auto parts stores will rent a coolant system pressure tester.

That's what I did. Advance Auto; I think it was around $300, which they refund immediately when you return it.

 

[Generalee0527]

Auto parts stores will rent a coolant system pressure tester. You hook it up, pressurize the system with a pump, I believe ours are rated at 15psi, then look for any peeing.
This has helped me diagnose coolant leaks many times.
I’d also say look for green stains. I had an S10 years ago that kept losing coolant, no puddles. Eventually I found the top of the tranny to be green, wherever it was leaking from it burned off the tranny before it hit the ground.

Well by running straight Distilled water I had enough rust to stain everything under the hood so now I need to catch it in the act.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

I need to catch it in the act.

I mean that's exactly what a pressure tester does. It simulates the pressure that would be on the coolant system if the engine was running at operating temperature. That will reveal any external leak within minutes (or instantly if it's a larger leak).

The test is so quick, some parts stores may let you do it right there in the parking lot without going through the whole parts rental hassle.

Straight distilled water...why?

 

[Generalee0527]

...

Straight distilled water...why?

We have horrible amount of calcium in the city water. It leaves a a lot of buildup and it will clog a radiator. I added Prestone concentrate after I saw how rusty it got. Now I'm tired of playing whack a mole.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

We have horrible amount of calcium in the city water.

Ok, but...what I meant was: there should always be a half/half mixture of coolant and distilled water (or pre-mixed).

It should never be filled with straight water, even if it's distilled. Except in an emergency.

 

[KevinVarnes]

Can you see coolant pudding in your (non) lifter valley? Sounds a lot like the joint between the aluminum crossover and the plastic intake has begun leaking. Usually the plastic turns into mush and leaks. I thought I had a bad rear main on the '97 a couple of years ago. Turns out coolant was leaking from that spot, running back towards the transmission in the lifter valley and draining down the block. It had run through so much grease and oil that by the time it got to the ground it looked like oil. Other possible culprit is the heater hose nipple on the passenger rear of the intake.

 

[NEURO]

We have horrible amount of calcium in the city water. It leaves a a lot of buildup and it will clog a radiator. I added Prestone concentrate after I saw how rusty it got. Now I'm tired of playing whack a mole.

Prestone sells gallon jugs of 50/50 pre-mixed you can pour right in.
It's what I've used in my Bird for years to avoid the hassle.
Auto parts stores sell it: https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze...US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:pdp&vehicleId=2333202

 

[CDsDontBurn]

was leaking from it burned off

I was having this exact problem with my Honda a few years ago. I couldn't tell if it was oil or grease from where I saw the black goop. Turned out it was burned off coolant.

Eventually though, the leak had gotten bad enough to where I was able to see fresh coolant puddling over the goopy area and that's how I found out about my coolant loss issue on my Honda.

 

[Grog6]

Since we have both aluminum and steel in our cooling system, you need the corrosion inhibitors in antifreeze to prevent rust. Distilled water is worse for corrosion,without inhibitors. The rust you see is coming from the block or cylinder liners,depending on engine.