Leaking Rack

Kidd-7 said:
Got the rack in, such a PÍA, especially by myself. Filled fluid and watching for leaks.

There are spacers inside the inner tire rods, should I leave those? Pic in next post.
Click to expand...
I'd leave them in.
 
Never leave out anything, If you don't know Exactly why it's there. I finished a race on an ISDT bike, after forgetting a washer, in 6th gear, because I was an idiot. Don't do that. :) That was in the 70's, for me. Sometimes it's nice to learn early, lol.
 
those are rack limiters, they’re not necessary. Is it your stock rack?
 
Like I said, If you don't know why they're there. :)
 
You'll know when it fails. :) Either belt breakage, guts puking out everywhere, or no power; You'll know. :)
 
Actually if the bellows are still good you won’t necessarily notice the pukeing of fluid until you take them off, that was the case with mine which I was able to limp for almost 10,000 miles, draining the bellows with an oil change.
 
Thought I remembered reading that somewhere. Thanks.
 
I've got a leak from the elbow that connects the rack to the high pressure line. Pretty sure this is it, now to try and find one locally.

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Those elbows tend to get bent and not seal correctly. Assuming you put a new teflon washer on it? I may have a good one in my stash.
 
I found one at an Autozone about 40 minutes away, picked it up and installed it. Heading out shortly to build a fire and check for leaks. If no spots underneath she'll be going back together today.
 
Those elbows used to be rare, but you can also get them at RA if you can't find them locally.
 
I remember seeing them at RA but I seem to recall folks having issue with them for whatever reason. That's why I kept a couple in my pile.
 
Update: I got everything back together and the battery was dead. Was able to charge it and get her started. While purging the air she developed a leak. So now got tear it apart again and fix the leak. ☹️ it looks to be on the high pressure side, but was losing light and patience, gotta go to work so had to turn in. This weekend will be chasing a leak.
 
You'll have plenty of time to replace it. :)

Something I remembered: That little support bracket that makes getting the high pressure line off the pump a pain in the ass HAS to go back on when you're done, otherwise vibration will kill that end of the line, where it goes into the pump.
 
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I hate this job and kinda hate this car right now. I'm pretty sure I have the high pressure line leak free now. I damaged the -an fitting that goes into the pump last night, was able to get a new fitting this morning. Now the pump is leaking around the bearings of the shaft. O'reilly will have one at 2p for me.
 
In addition, the battery died and the idle pulley is screaming. :bangwall:

I'd be nice to drive her this year.
 
Gotta love the game of MN12 whack-a-mole! Sometimes the PS pump seal comes around once it has belt tension back on it, but may as well swap it while you’re there now.
 
Got her all back together today. I will say the Mustang rack is a heck of an improvement, tighter and more responsive. As for the high pressure line conversion to -a fittings; I’d recommend going a little longer on the house maybe 11” to 12”. I went with 10” and it was really tight getting everything to line up. Also the doorman seals didn’t work well for me, I had to use thread tape also. I also used these adaptors from Amazon: EVIL ENERGY 6AN Male Flare to M16 x 1.5mm Male Metric Fitting Adapter Aluminium Alloy 2PCS https://a.co/d/30mpoih
They’re shorter than the Russell so no need to grind and have a rubber gasket as opposed to the Dorman seal. We’ll see how the hold up.
 
Drove her to work today and did well. 2 things:
- my steering wheel is slightly off due to the way the u joint lines up. Can I move the wheel itself? I can’t remember if it’s keyed.

- there’s is what sounds like a rubbing / vibrating noise when I turn left, could it be some air still in the system? Any thoughts on what to look at?
 
Yeah it probably needs to be burped some more

For wheel centering I mark the inner and outer tie rods with a white paint pen and turn them equal amounts. Nothing you can do about that on the column end
 
Will commence to burping…

Does the rack have a natural center point?
I seem to remember experiencing almost fighting the rack when a steering wheel was off center before.
 
Not really, all the assist is accomplished within the spool valve which is independent of wheel position. Could be the teeth in the rack may have worn a bit in the center position causing a dead spot, unless y fighting it you mean a pull which seems like it’s simply an alignment problem
 
So as I'm parking at work today turn the wheel and klunck. There's about 1/8" or so play in the steering now. I can't lift the car here at work, so I get under it best I can and it sounds like it's coming from the area where the steering shaft connects to the rack, the U-joint feels snug. With a buddy moving the steering wheel and my hand on the u-joint I didn't feel any play. So I'm thinking I've got a bum rebuild, this rack is a Cardone rebuild from Rockauto.

Any other thoughts? I plan to actually get under there and check things out this weekend.
 
Oh ok, good. Is the play consistent from lock to lock or in a specicific place?
 
Seems consistent. Like of I turn to the right then turn back left there is a little play.
 
I was going to throw up a video to show what the steering wheel is doing, but I am unable to attach a video file. I've seen video embeded in threads before any suggestions on how I can do that?

Either way I'll get under her tomorrow and see what I can see then report back.
 
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