Loud pop turning right

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Kidd-7

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96 Cougar 4.6L
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I've had some noise from the front suspension and recently replaced the drivers side shock mount, the metal sleeve was floating up and down.

Now I have a loud pop sound usually when turning right and the weight shifts onto the drivers side. I can actually feel it through the brake pedal. I got under it today and everything I see is tight. No play in the steering (9&3), very slight 6 & 12 play (wheel bearing are now on the list). Using a pry bar I stressed every ball joint there. Even bouncing the front up & down, no pops.

I'm attaching some pics, strut rod to LCA bushing has a slight crack in it.
The boots on the swat bar links are worn, so I'll be replacing those soon also. But would that be the loud popping? I can't get those to flex at all.

IMG_5267.jpgIMG_5268.jpg
 
I'd fix the obvious, and see if it changes, the endlinks articulate when you turn, so that makes sense; I've always found one end stuck, one end rattling . On the links, I'd bet the stuck one is popping.
 
Can you replicate the noise by rocking the car side to side? Most common source of front end clunks I come across are sway bar end links. They can be hard to assess with the car up in the air. I usually try to rock the car side to side (or have someone do that) while I grab onto the joint and feel for play.
 
I tried both bouncing it up and down and side to side with the weight on the ground. Wheel straight and turned. No pops.
When I moved cars in the driveway she popped again. :bangwall:
 
Have someone turn it while you look at it. I think you'll see an endlink suddenly pop and move.
 
yeah, but I can't get it to pop when stationary. I'm not hanging off the car while someone else drives it. LOL

I'm going to replace those end links. I thought about this afterwards, but I could've disconnected the end link and test drove it to see if it still pops and that would rule those out if the popping persists.
 
Kidd-7 said:
I've had some noise from the front suspension and recently replaced the drivers side shock mount, the metal sleeve was floating up and down.

Now I have a loud pop sound usually when turning right and the weight shifts onto the drivers side. I can actually feel it through the brake pedal. I got under it today and everything I see is tight. No play in the steering (9&3), very slight 6 & 12 play (wheel bearing are now on the list). Using a pry bar I stressed every ball joint there. Even bouncing the front up & down, no pops.

I'm attaching some pics, strut rod to LCA bushing has a slight crack in it.
The boots on the swat bar links are worn, so I'll be replacing those soon also. But would that be the loud popping? I can't get those to flex at all.
Click to expand...


I have a really similar issue, so if you find out what it is id be curious.

After having a shop redo my strut rods, lcas, and front shocks i have had a binding/ popping behavior that is worse on sloped/ tight turns, and also mostly when turning right. i could feel everything shift on right turns and braking, and i think what happened is my lca got wound up or pinched and is now damaged and popping.

my new mech told me that it is probably a combo of the bad lcas which already have blown bushings out (probably due to the strut rods failing multiple times due to my crappy shop lol) , inner tie rod play/ poor alignment. Im having lcas, inner tie rods/ outers and rack done today, and he is going to realign and check strut rods. So i will update if my issue is fixed. I have pulled my sway bar links and the noise persisted but i have visibly blown out lca bushings, and bad inners.

edit: i would also note this popping changed its behavior after retightening my strut rod- frame nuts with the car on the ground, seemed to go away for a bit and then come back. so im fairly convinced they have something to do with my popping or are just intensifying the feeling of having bad inners/ lca bushings
 
It’s been a while since I rebuilt the whole front end, but not long enough that it all would be worn out yet.
My plan tonight is to disconnect the end links and test drive.
I’m going to get them on order anyways, in the mean time I really want to know where the pip is coming from.
 
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Alright, I disco’d the end link and she still pops. If I back up quick and hit the brakes I can make it pop every time. Unfortunately my wife cannot replicate so I still can’t see what’s popping. It does look like the wheel moves slightly laterally when backing up, I can’t really tell for sure.

The last thing I did was replace the shock mount. I tried to tighten up the shock nut but it’s now stripped and won’t tighten or loosen.
Could that cause a pop? It doesn’t seem like it would but asking for experience here.
 
Backing up and feeling a pop, and turning on a slope and having a pop when the weight shifts is exactly how my bad strut rods felt, and i still have a slight intermittent popping of the same nature that i assume wont be fixed until the strut rods are set right and the car is tight and aligned.

again i have a couple things out of wack but if its not your shock i would say check strut rods to see if theyre tight. I have an idea that is my pop on sloped/ tight turns, like the strut rod is giving at the outer range of the geometry and making everything pop.

I did attempt to lube my sleeves, and retorque them. the behavior of the popping changed and lessened. As others have told me logically if its happening when turning specifically and not just when the weight shifts its probably steering related, but im fairly certain my binding is a taste of both worlds. i can feel it in the steering wheel, and similar to your experience it pops turning right when the weight shifts/ cannot replicate at a standstill, but i cant tell if its the turning or the weight shifting at this point for a certainty*

take everything i say with a grain of salt. I have about as much experience with these cars as the birds that shit on it.. but your issue sounds eerily similar to mine. so maybe check strut rods/ inner tie rods..?
 
Kidd-7 said:
Alright, I disco’d the end link and she still pops. If I back up quick and hit the brakes I can make it pop every time. Unfortunately my wife cannot replicate so I still can’t see what’s popping. It does look like the wheel moves slightly laterally when backing up, I can’t really tell for sure.

The last thing I did was replace the shock mount. I tried to tighten up the shock nut but it’s now stripped and won’t tighten or loosen.
Could that cause a pop? It doesn’t seem like it would but asking for experience here.
Click to expand...
I have also read something about lower arm wind up? if the lower shock bolt is torqued with sag? im not sure what that feels like though
 
torqued with sag?
What do you mean here?

I also suspect the strut rods, but am unable to say for certain as I cannot see it happen. I have a friend stopping by after work to help me look at it. At least now I can replicate it in the driveway with short movements.

What bushings did you use for the strut rods to frame?
 
Kidd-7 said:
torqued with sag?
What do you mean here?

I also suspect the strut rods, but am unable to say for certain as I cannot see it happen. I have a friend stopping by after work to help me look at it. At least now I can replicate it in the driveway with short movements.

What bushings did you use for the strut rods to frame?
Click to expand...
The lower bolt that connects shock-bushing-lca. Was it torqued with load (wheels on the ground) or sagging?

also scp poly kit as shown in this picture

image_2026-04-15_191109258.png

not sure this describes your pop though, but a little reading says wind up can be describes as a vaugue feeling in the front end, or clunks over bumps or popping at the end ranges of the geometry? but that is google ai for ya.
 
LukesCougar said:
View attachment 17780
Click to expand...
Im also just now noticing that the shop installed my front- frame bushings inverse style

:/ not suprised but when i took them off to retorque and lube them the bushings with the lip was definitely not on the outside of frame/ end of strut rod facing in. Yet another thing i need to mention to my new mech when he fixes their mistakes.
 
Just to verify I loosened the shock to LCA bolt and torqued it with wheels on the ground, still knocks.
The wheel does stay slightly when the car moves forward.
I’ve got a little movement on the LCA to frame bushing, more on the drivers side than passenger.
Also a little more movement on the drivers side strut rod to frame bushing.
I’m figuring one or both of these are my culprit.
 
LukesCougar said:
The lower bolt that connects shock-bushing-lca. Was it torqued with load (wheels on the ground) or sagging?

also scp poly kit as shown in this picture

View attachment 17780

not sure this describes your pop though, but a little reading says wind up can be describes as a vaugue feeling in the front end, or clunks over bumps or popping at the end ranges of the geometry? but that is google ai for ya.
Click to expand...
Would these bushings work with the stainless sleeves from TBSC shop?

Also those look like energy suspension bushings. Do they have a front end kit for us?

I'm looking rockauto and not much is available in the way of replacement bushings, looks like I may need to buy the whole LCA.
 
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Kidd-7 said:
Would these bushings work with the stainless sleeves from TBSC shop?

Also those look like energy suspension bushings. Do they have a front end kit for us?

I'm looking rockauto and not much is available in the way of replacement bushings, looks like I may need to buy the whole LCA.
Click to expand...
I am honestly not sure.

They are the poly kit from super coupe preformance. A bit pricey.

The bushings themselves are for a 1961 lincoln continental but they're sold by scp with hardware for our cars. You can make the kit yourself, but I was lazy and just bought the kit.
 
You do mean the shock- lca bushing right? Was that the source of your pop?
 
Those bushing are Energy Suspension 4.7118G. comes with sleeves but no washers.
 
Not sure on the source of my pop. I'm pretty sure its either the LCA to frame bushing or the strut rod to frame bushing, both have more play on the drivers side than passenger and are the only things that would let the wheel move separately from the car.
 
Kidd-7 said:
Those bushing are Energy Suspension 4.7118G. comes with sleeves but no washers.
Click to expand...
The sleeves that come with that kit would need modified, and can find washers at hardware store

I would wait for someone else to chime in though. I'm not sure I'm just parroting what I've heard but I can say they felt better than the mevotech/ moog stuff, my arms are just trashed already due to the strut rod failures i had. as to why I'm also having a pop still + my strut rods weren't set correctly. Whole alignment is out of wack.
 
For strut rod bushings: MEVOTECH GK8659 states: Manufactured with high grade natural rubber

That sounds like factory replacements.
 
Kidd-7 said:
Not sure on the source of my pop. I'm pretty sure its either the LCA to frame bushing or the strut rod to frame bushing, both have more play on the drivers side than passenger and are the only things that would let the wheel move separately from the car.
Click to expand...
One of your lca- strut rod bushings did appear to have like a crack in it. That may just be grease or dirt. I can't tell but by the picture you sent those may be worn at the arm or just starting to go?

Scp still sells the oem originals for a pretty penny, and others have stated you can run whatever you want in the rear of the strut rod. It's the frame that doesn't like the stiff bushings


Edit: it's the front- frame that are almost impossible to find, but again you can make that lincoln continental kit work and they seem to feel better than the other aftermarket junk
 
LukesCougar said:
The sleeves that come with that kit would need modified, and can find washers at hardware store

I would wait for someone else to chime in though. I'm not sure I'm just parroting what I've heard but I can say they felt better than the mevotech/ moog stuff, my arms are just trashed already due to the strut rod failures i had. as to why I'm also having a pop still + my strut rods weren't set correctly. Whole alignment is out of wack.
Click to expand...
I followed your story. There has been a ton of discussion over the years about these bushings and suitable replacements. I'm not sure where we are currently other than of course parts are harder to find.
 
Kidd-7 said:
I followed your story. There has been a ton of discussion over the years about these bushings and suitable replacements. I'm not sure where we are currently other than of course parts are harder to find.
Click to expand...
I would say if you are concerned vibrations/ ride spend the 80$ on the oem originals and the scp poly front kit or make it yourself, but as xr7 for an example has stated the stiffer bushings do fine at the arm, but my bushings literally exploded and I still had the blue stuff at the frame. So I spent the money and got rid of both just for my sanity.

Something im trying to figure out with my new mech is the arms. Trw arms look to be made to accommodate the oem original bushings, while the moog, mevotech, ect arms look to me made for the "improved design" bushings. So maybe take that into consideration choosing lca- strut rod bushings
 
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These look like fair alternatives to try out, but others have bought one thing and received another but out of the lot to pick and from what ive been told theyre atleast worth a shot- for the strut rod- frame



oem original rear strut rod- lca and oem style (i think??) arms -


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Front Suspension Bushings for the Rear of the Strut Rod - Set for both sides

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The oem rears and the trw lcas is what im going to be running. i was hoping i could update today on how the car rides, but my new mech wasnt a fan of the control arms that were on the car. So instead of warrantying them we sourced trw arms
 
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I ordered the bushings below for the strut rod to frame bushings. I currently have stock bushings with stainless steel sleeves. I've replaced these a while ago and don't remember how stiff they were.

The new ones I bought state natural rubber, but these are very hard, does anybody remember how squishy or rubbery the stock ones were?

 
It's hard rubber, but it's visibly rubber. Not hard thermoplastic that fragments.
That appears to be rubber, but you won't know until it's in your hand.
 
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