Multi-function switch fix

Jae 'Bird

4th Gear Poster
Joined
Dec 11, 2023
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236
Age
20
Location
Edmonton, Canada
Vehicle Details
1990 Ford Thunderbird Base with PEP 151A, 3.8L NA V-6
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So I am trying to fix my multi-function switch and I went out today and finally had the time to remove the steering column cover and I had no idea it was so easy to remove. Anyway, I went to remove the wire harness plugs and they were oily? I was super confused, the wires were dry but the plugs had this very light and thin oil that was a light golden color, it was also on the switch itself, I wiped the plugs down and they looked fine (I partially cracked one of the locking tabs removing it :rolleyes2: oh well, it will still work fine), and I cant tell if it is from the switch, is there a chance the mechanic that last was in here did it to make the plugs go in easier? or is this a sign something is wrong? reason I removed it in the first place was because my turn signal stopped working. My hazards work though and my wipers worked so its strange that only one part of the switch would go bad. Lastly, any tips for opening and cleaning the switch? I gotta find my security bits and then I can get thing open.
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Not sure about the oiliness. I know the switch will have grease inside to control corrosion - you'll want to clean out all the dried gunk and replace it.
 
Be careful taking it apart, there are sliders, and a spring that does the cancelling function. look at it as you pull it apart, so you can get it back together. clean all the copper pieces with fine emory cloth until they look like a new Penney,and refill it with dielectric grease before you reassemble it.
 
Someone probably applied some sort of spray lubricant in an attempt to reduce clunkiness, which left behind an oily film.

I remember taking mine apart early on after buying the car, because it was terribly clunky. Greasing the insides ultimately didn't help much. I realized that my switch was an aftermarket unit, and I figured the clunky feel was by design.
I could replace it with an OEM unit, but it works, so why bother?

Just take your time, take pictures along the way, so you can reassemble it properly.


Side note regarding my switch: the arm is made from metal, whereas OEM switches seem to all use plastic arms (?).
 

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