Oil Pressure Sensor Appears to Leak

Thunderstruck95

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Sep 23, 2023
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S.W. Michigan
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1995 Thunderbird 4.6
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My 97 Mark VIII just developed an oil leak and it appears to be at the oil pressure sensor below the filter. I thought this was a strange part failure, but I am 90% sure oil is seeping around the plastic body at a rate of a drop every 7 seconds.

The internet don’t show these failing very often. Anybody else ever have that part fail?
 
I've seen it before as well, the one on an explorer engine I tore down clearly had signs of oil seepage through it
 
Don't overtighten the new one, it's pipe thread and can crack the cast aluminum housing. Ask me how i know lmao
 
Happens all the time. The internal seal that keeps the oil on one side and the sensor on the other side gives up. Then they leak. I suggest trying to get one from Ford. The aftermarket ones almost never work for me.
 
Just remember: They look the same, but the mark ones are backwards. My 97leaked, and had a loose one from a mark engine bought, lol. If it oil pressure fails, it will show oil pressure. :) I'm such a twit, that missed that this was a mark 8. the ps 60 sender mod would not work for those.
 
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On an MN12, Get one of these:
It wlll work the same until you do the back of the cluster mod, but after you do that mod, it will be a real gage.
 
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Just remember: They look the same, but the mark ones are backwards. My 97leaked, and had a loose one from a mark engine bought, lol. If it oil pressure fails, it will show oil pressure. :)
I used a gran marquis one I had here at first, and it also was wired backwards
 
I just put an autozone replacement in and all seems well.
Thanks for the link for the recommended part, but this car is my daily and I needed to be able to drive it tomorrow.
I wanted to tighten it more, but was wary of cracking the female threads. I put some good automotive thread sealer on the threads and am trusting it to keep the oil in.
 
I used a gran marquis one I had here at first, and it also was wired backwards

Switches for the dummy lights work the opposite of switches for gauges since the “gauge” should be closed with pressure and pass current to point the needle up, while the light should be off with pressure and not pass current. Pressure drop with the “gauge” the switch opens and the needle falls/Pressure drop with the light the switch closes and illuminates the light.
 
Never had a mark, and so much was similar... I was like This worked a second ago, so I searched on tccoa, and sure enough... I edited my post above about the pressure sender.
 
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