Options for two-tone teal paint

[andy625uk]

Havent posted on here for a while. Hope everyone's doing ok.

Been looking at options to fix laquer peel on my roof, hood and trunk. A respray is a bit out of my budget so I had a look at getting the affected panels wrapped.

The company can't match the teal colour exactly so I'm looking for options to make the roof hood and trunk a different colour. Not keen on black, but has anyone done this before?

 

[theterminator93]

Good to see you. Hope your new job is treating you well!

While others ponder responses to your original question, I'll ask this: how's the paint under the clear? Would [wet] sanding the old clear coat off, then re-clearing it be an option? I'm ignorant as to whether that was a tinted clear color, so it might be a moot point.

 

[Zep5.0]

I've seen dark blue with teal metallics look good as a two tone on 18 wheelers. It would have to be pretty dark to contrast enough, but may look decent

 

[andy625uk]

Good to see you. Hope your new job is treating you well!

While others ponder responses to your original question, I'll ask this: how's the paint under the clear? Would [wet] sanding the old clear coat off, then re-clearing it be an option? I'm ignorant as to whether that was a tinted clear color, so it might be a moot point.

The jobs ok thanks - apart from the cad system they use. Creo Parametric is useless compared to Solidworks that we had at the last company.

The paint under the clear looks ok to me. Every bodyshop I've spoken to said they'd repaint the colour though - I guess to make sure it came up to standard. Do you think sandingthe clear off would work? A good proportion of it has gone already!

 

[andy625uk]

I've seen dark blue with teal metallics look good as a two tone on 18 wheelers. It would have to be pretty dark to contrast enough, but may look decent

That sounds like it might look ok.

 

[Grog6]

I think a 2 tone looks good! A buddy back in the 80's had a black and tan tbird that looked really good.
Solidworks is great. It could be worse, Our company went with NX, which is completely different.

 

[MadMikeyL]

Once the clear is compromised, you pretty much have to respray the color. The problem is that there is no catalyst or UV protection in the base, so as soon as the clear is compromised, the base starts breaking down, and since it is not chemically hardened like the clearcoat, you will inevitably sand through the base while trying to remove the clear.

As for what color would work well with a 2-tone, I seem to recall seeing a teal with charcoal grey bird that looked pretty good, although I think that one was teal on top and charcoal on bottom.

 

[XR7-4.6]

White

 

[Vicinity]

3M Website is super shoddy and limited

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/restyling-studio-us/

Maybe there is a Wrap company that offers downloadable simulators, but who wants to download random software

 

[White Lincoln]

Havent posted on here for a while. Hope everyone's doing ok.

Been looking at options to fix laquer peel on my roof, hood and trunk. A respray is a bit out of my budget so I had a look at getting the affected panels wrapped.

The company can't match the teal colour exactly so I'm looking for options to make the roof hood and trunk a different colour. Not keen on black, but has anyone done this before?

I had a similar problem with my Cougar. The paint was going and I looked all around for other ways to "restore" what was left. I though about doing two tone to cover the top part that was bad also. I thought it was either time to get rid of the car of suck it up and have it painted. I even pondered doing the spray myself. The sprayer and paint materials would be a fraction of the cost to have someone do the spray for me. I finally started looking around and found I could get single stage job done for around $2000. That was in my budget. I stripped everything off, including the rear quarter windows, emblems, etc, everything to bring the cost down and get a better job. I had Maaco do the paint job and besides a few issues, the paint is still looking good after many, many years and I am happy with it. But I always wash the car by hand, it is garage kept and I wax and do touch ups frequently to keep it looking nice.

Save up your money and either do it yourself in a garage or have someone do it for you. Put the time in to watch a lot of videos of how to paint and decide if its for you or not and then start looking around for a shop that will shoot it for you at a price you can afford. At least you will be educated on spraying a car after watching the videos and it will give you a lot of ideas too as well as you will understand better HOW a shop will be spraying the car and be able to understand why it costs so much. It's worth it if you are going to keep the car.

Good luck with your decision.

 

[andy625uk]

Thanks, that does sound exactly like my predicament. I'll read up on it like you say. I've done some spraying before and I'd be happy to have a go at it, but my problem is finding somewhere to do it thats not outside. So much pollen, dust and bird crap around here.

 

[White Lincoln]

Thanks, that does sound exactly like my predicament. I'll read up on it like you say. I've done some spraying before and I'd be happy to have a go at it, but my problem is finding somewhere to do it thats not outside. So much pollen, dust and bird crap around here.

Yes, the bird crap is the biggest culprit!

Your area may have places that rent out paint booths. We have a few around here, but as I mentioned, I decided to go with someone to do it after I weighed out the costs of me doing it and having someone else do it. If I used my garage, I would have to spend a lot of time in the prep. I would need to set it up my garage like a paint booth; line the walls with clear plastic so the paint does not get on everything I have in the garage. I would also need to make some sort of exhaust vent either under the garage door or in the window with a strong fan. That also requires you have a return vent with a filter setup. I also was not real confident in the mixing of the paint part of the shooting and the gun I have is not really the best for doing a car. I guess a Wagner spray gun would not work... (just kidding). The cost of a new gun, paint supplies, plastic and all the time to sand and prep the body with Bondo, etc. It is a lot of work. As i mentioned, I did as much as humanly possible to prep the car for the paint shop. I even went to the junk yard and got another hood off a 94 for them to use. My hood had a dent in the very front that would have taken more time to prep than just replacing the hood.

The sunny pics are after I drove the car home. The tail lights are in only for driving purposes and had one bolt holding them in. Same with the mirrors, one bolt holding them in. I pulled the inside door panels out so they could easily remove the mirrors. You can see the replaced hood before painting. It was a turquoise blue and then the after spray is the sunny pic is where the the hood is gold. The first pic is the car before I pulled the rear side quarter windows out. I stopped by one day to see how they were doing and it was in the back prep area. The windows where covered and it was being prep'd for paint after all the sanding and body filling of the dents. When I first went over to get a quote, they went over all the dents and dings that needed to addressed and mentioned the work it would take to straighten the hood, do the pin stripping, etc. That is when I started getting the idea I would strip down everything for them to keep the costs down.

Go get a few quotes and see what it costs now. Ask how much to just drop it off and they pull everything as apposed to you bringing it in stripped and see if there is a big diff. You might be surprised. After the paint job, I did my own pin stripping, which turned out better than when a dealership did my Town Car after an accident. I read several articles about doing the pin stripping to get an idea of the little things, like how to place the stripping at the door / body junction and what to do with double pin stripping, etc. The paint job was done some 8 years ago and still looks great. I went around the corners of the car yesterday buffing out the paint marks from A-holes that can't pull out of a parking space without nailing the corner of your bumper... WTF I ask you?!

Good luck!

PS: The pic of the replaced hood before painting, the driver corner of the bumper is where someone was backing out of a parking space and nailed my car. They just drove off, but a witness was kind enough to leave their phone number with a note that they saw the whole thing happen. I tracked the culprit down, found out they were not well off and my wife said "let it go, looks like they could not afford insurance, let alone to pay you for the damage". I lived with that for 10 years?! Waiting to get a paint job can be debilitating with crap like that on your car. But the key to spending the money to get your car painted is "are you going to keep the car for another 10 years?". That is what can be the deal breaker. I spent a lot of time over those years looking at other Cougars like mine, in much better shape and wondered if it would be cheaper to just replace the car for the price to get a paint job.

 

[theterminator93]

my problem is finding somewhere to do it thats not outside. So much pollen, dust and bird crap around here.

I think I understand your situation with that one. When I was attacking my blue Cougar's badly baked-off and faded roof and hood, I didn't have a booth or protected area to spray it either. I was determined to make it "better", but had a budget of only about $50! I had to wait for a decent day without much wind to give it a try - I did this in September. Then again, I was using over-the-counter rattle can paint and I wasn't expecting much; since it was a winter car I didn't care a lot as long as it looked "better", and was not expecting anything I did to last very long. I tried it two times and I got much better results the second time, a year later.

Sharing this is probably a lot like comparing apples to oranges over what you want and what I did (in my case, orange peel!) but I guess it shows what can be expected with no prior spraying experience and the lowest quality materials and environment.


Original paint:




First try (clear faded pretty quick and got dull):




Second try (thicker clear coat - more thinner coats):




What I ended up with at the end stayed with the car until it met its end 2 years later, and it still looked decent. The color and finish remained uniform but the clear started to get dull; it was a relatively soft paint. With a better clear, it probably would have done much better.

 

[White Lincoln]

You did that with rattle cans? Seriously? That is really nice and looks about as good as mine does! And it lasted over 2 years? w0w

I am impressed.

 

[andy625uk]

Yes, the bird crap is the biggest culprit!

Your area may have places that rent out paint booths. We have a few around here, but as I mentioned, I decided to go with someone to do it after I weighed out the costs of me doing it and having someone else do it. If I used my garage, I would have to spend a lot of time in the prep. I would need to set it up my garage like a paint booth; line the walls with clear plastic so the paint does not get on everything I have in the garage. I would also need to make some sort of exhaust vent either under the garage door or in the window with a strong fan. That also requires you have a return vent with a filter setup. I also was not real confident in the mixing of the paint part of the shooting and the gun I have is not really the best for doing a car. I guess a Wagner spray gun would not work... (just kidding). The cost of a new gun, paint supplies, plastic and all the time to sand and prep the body with Bondo, etc. It is a lot of work. As i mentioned, I did as much as humanly possible to prep the car for the paint shop. I even went to the junk yard and got another hood off a 94 for them to use. My hood had a dent in the very front that would have taken more time to prep than just replacing the hood.

The sunny pics are after I drove the car home. The tail lights are in only for driving purposes and had one bolt holding them in. Same with the mirrors, one bolt holding them in. I pulled the inside door panels out so they could easily remove the mirrors. You can see the replaced hood before painting. It was a turquoise blue and then the after spray is the sunny pic is where the the hood is gold. The first pic is the car before I pulled the rear side quarter windows out. I stopped by one day to see how they were doing and it was in the back prep area. The windows where covered and it was being prep'd for paint after all the sanding and body filling of the dents. When I first went over to get a quote, they went over all the dents and dings that needed to addressed and mentioned the work it would take to straighten the hood, do the pin stripping, etc. That is when I started getting the idea I would strip down everything for them to keep the costs down.

Go get a few quotes and see what it costs now. Ask how much to just drop it off and they pull everything as apposed to you bringing it in stripped and see if there is a big diff. You might be surprised. After the paint job, I did my own pin stripping, which turned out better than when a dealership did my Town Car after an accident. I read several articles about doing the pin stripping to get an idea of the little things, like how to place the stripping at the door / body junction and what to do with double pin stripping, etc. The paint job was done some 8 years ago and still looks great. I went around the corners of the car yesterday buffing out the paint marks from A-holes that can't pull out of a parking space without nailing the corner of your bumper... WTF I ask you?!

Good luck!

PS: The pic of the replaced hood before painting, the driver corner of the bumper is where someone was backing out of a parking space and nailed my car. They just drove off, but a witness was kind enough to leave their phone number with a note that they saw the whole thing happen. I tracked the culprit down, found out they were not well off and my wife said "let it go, looks like they could not afford insurance, let alone to pay you for the damage". I lived with that for 10 years?! Waiting to get a paint job can be debilitating with crap like that on your car. But the key to spending the money to get your car painted is "are you going to keep the car for another 10 years?". That is what can be the deal breaker. I spent a lot of time over those years looking at other Cougars like mine, in much better shape and wondered if it would be cheaper to just replace the car for the price to get a paint job.

Sorryfor the delay replying. That looks like an awesome pant job now. Must be very satisfying, particularly after living with the marks on it for so long. Maybe I'll have to start saving up!

 

[andy625uk]

I think I understand your situation with that one. When I was attacking my blue Cougar's badly baked-off and faded roof and hood, I didn't have a booth or protected area to spray it either. I was determined to make it "better", but had a budget of only about $50! I had to wait for a decent day without much wind to give it a try - I did this in September. Then again, I was using over-the-counter rattle can paint and I wasn't expecting much; since it was a winter car I didn't care a lot as long as it looked "better", and was not expecting anything I did to last very long. I tried it two times and I got much better results the second time, a year later.

Sharing this is probably a lot like comparing apples to oranges over what you want and what I did (in my case, orange peel!) but I guess it shows what can be expected with no prior spraying experience and the lowest quality materials and environment.


Original paint:

View attachment 6065


First try (clear faded pretty quick and got dull):

View attachment 6066


Second try (thicker clear coat - more thinner coats):

View attachment 6067


What I ended up with at the end stayed with the car until it met its end 2 years later, and it still looked decent. The color and finish remained uniform but the clear started to get dull; it was a relatively soft paint. With a better clear, it probably would have done much better.

That looks like an amazing finish for over the counter paint! Im tempted to have a go at mine with something similar. We have a paint supplier here that will mix up paint to your paint code and supply the large rattle cans. I've used them before to paint the rockers after I had some rust repaired, and also a door trim. It matched in perfectly. I didn't used a clear coat on either and they still look good, although of course they're not getting cooked by the sun in the same way as the roof and hood would.

 

[Grog6]

You can make a paintbooth around your car using dropcloth, 1x1" boards, tape, a 20" fan, and 8 20x20" hvac hepa filters. If you do it in a driveway, close to an air-conditioned house, that helps. Tape 4 around the outer dia of the fan, and one across the end. put the rest in the plastic walls. Air thru the fan/filter, paint-laden air out. Respirator that fits well required, or you will die, lol.

 

[White Lincoln]

Look at portable Paint Booths on Amazon, WalMart, HarborFreight, Tracker Supply, Temu, lots of places, you may see one that fits your needs and costs. Just a suggestion. Even if it lasts one time, that's all you need.

Do you have a tent you don't use anymore that your car would fit in? Or look up tents on sale... Just a thought.

 

[MadMikeyL]

If doing a home job, a paint booth really isn’t necessary, especially if it is just doing a few panels. Getting the car completely clean including behind any panels that will be getting air sprayed over them, as well as proper sanding and prep work, and removing all trim that touches the area to be painted are far more important to getting a decent job. Without a booth, you will most likely have some small amount of dirt or bugs that get in the paint, but wet sanding and buffing those areas after it cures is going to be easier than trying to fabricate a temporary spray booth, plus if this isn’t something you do for a living, you are probably going to have to sand and buff a few runs or other imperfections anyway.

 

[dDUBb]

Agree with Mikey .. paint is 90% prep and 10% paint.

One of my neighbors buys wrecked trucks at auction, does some repair and paint work. It looks good from 20 feet away but you can tell a lack of prep when everything shows through the paint.

We still got a little dust in the paint when I worked at the GM factory - and those were painted by robots in a state of the art facility. A quick sand with 2000 grit and quick polish will take care of anything in the paint. What's under the paint is all about the prep. The only time we had a major paint problem was if anybody was wearing anti perspirant or cologne would cause fish eyes in the paint. They used to shake us down one by one in our bunny suits with a freshly cleared paint panel to determine who is contaminating the paint.

 

[theterminator93]

You did that with rattle cans? Seriously? That is really nice and looks about as good as mine does! And it lasted over 2 years? w0w

I am impressed.

Thanks. The "20 foot rule" certainly applied though, lol.

That looks like an amazing finish for over the counter paint! Im tempted to have a go at mine with something similar. We have a paint supplier here that will mix up paint to your paint code and supply the large rattle cans. I've used them before to paint the rockers after I had some rust repaired, and also a door trim. It matched in perfectly. I didn't used a clear coat on either and they still look good, although of course they're not getting cooked by the sun in the same way as the roof and hood would.

My approach was "well, I'm not likely to make this look worse than it already does". I had no plans to keep the car long-term, so I didn't mind a temporary fix. I get the impression you're probably looking for something more long-lasting.

IIRC Mikey used OTC rattle-cans on his car, then used a proper clear over it. It's held up remarkably well! I found a couple pictures of the car taken 14 months after I painted the hood. It was more matte by then, but the finish was, at least, uniform.

The price of body work has gone through the roof - assuming you are lucky enough to find someone willing to do non-insurance jobs.