Possible coolant hose malfunction on intake side.

CoolantConsumer

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93 SC manual | 95 Lx V8
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Hey everyone,

Recently picked up this SC. When my car gets warm, it makes what sounds like a buzz noise and shoots out what I believe is coolant (There was coolant on my intake afterwards) I’m assuming there’s a bad hose somewhere in that area but haven’t had a chance to look into it yet. I’m waiting on my new intake and won’t have a chance to work on my car till then! I'm thinking a coolant hose malfunction on the intake side or the AC blowing off refrigerant. What are y'all thoughts?

Note: it happens during idle, only when the car is warm, in intermittent intervals. Can provide video. Thanks.
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I wouldn't drive the SC with any kind of possible coolant leak.

There is a bypass hose from the heater core to the water pump that runs on that side of the engine. It's a metal tube with crimped rubber hoses on the ends. I would start there and determine if it's possible to repair or look for a replacement .. 🤔
 
I wouldn't drive the SC with any kind of possible coolant leak.

There is a bypass hose from the heater core to the water pump that runs on that side of the engine. It's a metal tube with crimped rubber hoses on the ends. I would start there and determine if it's possible to repair or look for a replacement .. 🤔
it’s under the sheets for the time being. I’m still a newbie so I’m waiting on the expert @supergordo to check it out but I know he is really busy. I will probably tinker around with it today and investigate more. My intake came in :) thank you!
 

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Is the AC on when it does this?
 
Try it again with the AC off
Ok did some testing.

It’s blowing off refrigerent/freeon. It smells bad and leaves an oily residual.
It only happens with the AC on, it does not happen when the AC is off.
I have provided photos where it’s coming from.
 

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You either have an AC problem or the system is over charged.
 
Too much refrigerant in the system. It's also possible it could be a faulty valve - the best way to test is to put a set of gauges on it and read the pressures (high and low).

You can get a kit that comes with a decent consumer-grade vacuum pump for evacuations and gauges to recharge for less than the price most shops charge to do it for you. Evacuation is pulling a vacuum to lower the vapor pressure and draw out moisture from the system and check for leaks. Moisture in the air that would be inside the lines after opening the system for service combines with the oil used to lubricate the compressor, and turns to acid.

Investing in a vacuum pump and set of AC gauges has paid for itself tenfold for me, personally. And not by choice! :zbash:
 
Too much refrigerant in the system. It's also possible it could be a faulty valve - the best way to test is to put a set of gauges on it and read the pressures (high and low).

You can get a kit that comes with a decent consumer-grade vacuum pump for evacuations and gauges to recharge for less than the price most shops charge to do it for you. Evacuation is pulling a vacuum to lower the vapor pressure and draw out moisture from the system and check for leaks. Moisture in the air that would be inside the lines after opening the system for service combines with the oil used to lubricate the compressor, and turns to acid.

Investing in a vacuum pump and set of AC gauges has paid for itself tenfold for me, personally. And not by choice! :zbash:
Thank you! Ill keep everyone posted.
 
As long as the system has r134a in it, I have an AC machine at my house. We can evac it and get a weight reading of the Freon. Then we can diagnose.
 
As long as the system has r134a in it, I have an AC machine at my house. We can evac it and get a weight reading of the Freon. Then we can diagnose.
Sounds a like a plan. What do you need me to do in the meantime before we proceed? Thank you.
 
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Update: been a while since I worked on the tbird, we replaced the wires and the relay wire that burned up. The fan works now but we noticed that it does not work at operating temperature. Possible sensor? I still haven't had time to diagnose the a/c problem.
 
The eec tells it when to turn the fan on, based on the reading of the sender on the pass side of the intake crossover. iirc, unplugging it turns on the high speed fan. The other one does the gage, so if you yank it and the fan doesn't come on, see if the dash gage is dead. Otherwise, you have a bigger problem.
 
Update: we double checked the wires and fan. The fan works now at operating temps. We took it on the main roads and pushed it. After getting it warm, we let it idle and the fan turned on. No major leaks besides a small thermostat housing leak (was discussed with @supergordo.) My code reader showed 20 which correct me if I’m wrong means cylinder 2 misfire but it was running and driving strong. Power steering pump needs replacing. Overall, happy with the progression. It might be ready for registration.
 
#2 is the 2nd cyl on the pass side. 1234 on pass side, 5678 n the drivers.
You said you have a leak, look in the spark plug wells first; then pull the plugs, then replace the wires, if that isn't it. coolant kills plug wires quick.
Will do. This is happening to my supercoupe rather than my V8 so getting to those sparks plugs are going to be a pain
 
Yeah, the plug wells on the v8 cars is right on top. :) If yours is a pain, I'd say Fuckit, and shotgun it.New plugs new wires, inspect the plug wells if any, if there's heav water or oil, fix that first. To clearshit out of the wells, I spray a bunch of wd40in there, cover with a a paper towel, and hit it with a air blowoff tool that reaches the bottom of the plug well. That shit will come right out. :) Brake parts cleaner is hard on the gaskets, so TRY to keep it to wd, it's gentle. :) I don't usually throw parts at problems, but sometimes it just wants a monetary sacrifice. Lazarus usually wants blood,lol.
 
There are no wells on the 3.8, it’s a traditional pushrod engine where they’re on the side between exhaust ports
 
Ouch. So, distributor fun? All my experience with those ended when I sold the 83 firebird. :) Sorry. :)
The wires get baked by the exhaust, and can look fine. I remember one set of expensive wires that looked fine, but leaked spark if it was too humid.
I finally found it with my hand, lol. Does the 'misting with a hose' thing work on those? I rebuilt a 3.8 Chevy once, It blew head gaskets. :)1000 bux to rebuild.
 

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