Rear Suspension Rebuild with Mark VIII arms

Stanley

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6L V8
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I'm looking for help. With the front suspension sorted and the hub-and-brake swap planned for next month, I'm beginning to plan the next stage of my car rebuild: the rear suspension. The rear seems to be much more of a pain than the front to put together a comprehensive package. As usual, I've found all sorts of information applying to different cars and part setups or recommending parts from businesses and people now unfortunately dead and gone. So I'm making an up-to-date thread to try and sort everything out for my particular usage case.

I'm going to post some parts and hopefully people can give me some feedback on fit (ignore prices: the listings are for part verification only). Like my hub swap thread, I plan to change this from questions to a guide once I've figured everything out.

General Info Thread on Bushings (also available here):



I'll start with rear bushings. Assuming you're adding Mark VIII lower control arms, as best as I can tell you want:

BUSHINGS
Subframe4 per side (8 total)
Lower Control Arm (Mark VIII-specific)2 per side (4 total)
Upper Control Arm1 per side (2 total)
Spindle/Knuckle3 per side (6 total)
Differential Carrier1 per side (2 total)
Sway Bar1 per side (2 total)

General note: For any polyurethane or delrin bushings, make sure they’re well lubed before install and, if possible, lubeable with grease fittings added. Squeaks are prevalent on these materials without this.

Subframe Bushings - 1 set
UHMW. Comes with new bolts. I believe only SCP does these.

Lower Control Arm Bushings - Mark VIII-specific - 2 sets
Delrin. If you're swapping out your stock T-bird LCAs with Mark VIII LCAs, you need bushings specifically made for the Mark VIII arms. I believe only SCP does these. Note that there is an alternate Delrin set made back in the day by late forum poster DLF (Doug Fraleigh) that eliminated the need for toe compensators, but the SCP set linked above still needs them.

Upper Control Arm Bushings - 2 sets
Rubber. You don't have to use SCP here, but they'll ensure you get the right design, rather than ones that potentially don't work right (which is what the all-caps note in their product description is referring to). A bad aftermarket design has infiltrated the supply channel, as described in this thread: both the correct, original design and the flawed replacement have shown up in the same packaging, under the same part numbers, from multiple brands.

(Despite the specificity on "inner" in the SCP product description, the UCA doesn't have any other bushing: what would be considered the "outer" bushing is actually in the spindle).

Spindle/Knuckle Bushings - 1 set
Polyurethane. Part number 4.3163.

Differential Carrier Bushings - 1 set
Polyurethane. Part number 4.1126.

Sway Bar Bushings - Rear - 1 set
Sway bar sizes vary depending on the year and car subtype, and then there's aftermarket Addco bars which introduce even more variance. Below is a chart (taken from the general info thread linked above) matching front and rear bar sizes to Energy Suspension bushing part numbers (click to enlarge).

Sway Bar Bushing Chart (Rr=L, Fr=R).png

As an aside, if you're deciding to upgrade your rear sway bar with an Addco one (see below) and you're buying it new, Addco provides sway bar bushings for your bar size with the bar, plus end links, so you don't need to buy them separately. However, as noted in the general info thread, they're of questionable quality, and so it's better to get a set of Energy Suspension bushings that match your new sway bar and use those instead of what is bundled with the bar. That will require creating both a backing plate and a threaded plate (a nut tacked to flat stock will suffice) for each side to hold these alternate bushings; pictures are available in the general info thread.



Non-bushing bits:

Mark VIII Lower Control Arms
The arms from any year of Mark VIII will do.

Mark VIII Arm Spring Perches - 1 set
Intended to allow a proper mounting of the Mark VIII arms on a non-Mark VIII car. I believe only SCP does these.

Performance Upper Control Arms - 1 set
Lighter and stronger version of the normal UCAs. Also helps with camber alignment on lowered cars. I believe only SCP does these. Not necessary, but nice.

Rear Shock Mounts - 1 set
Any LX Bird needs this type. Super Coupes and the '89-91 XR7 use ARC (automatic ride control) and so require a different type. These are polyurethane; I believe only SCP does these.

Rear Coil Spring Isolator Pads - 2 sets
Part number 61709.

While badged as lower-only and specifically for Mustang Cobras, this works for our cars. You just buy two sets instead of finding a separate upper set, since the spring diameter on our cars is same top and bottom (unlike Mustangs where it reduces at the frame).

Toe Compensators - 2 sets
Original Ford part number is E9SZ-5A972-A. This was replaced by F7SZ-5A972-AA for 1997 for some reason (but still listed at Ford sites as being compatible with the whole 89-97 Bird/Cougar range); Mevotech's replacement for the F7SZ part is CMS40193, and Dorman's is 522-444.

Rear Sway Bar End Links - 2 sets
Part number k8641.

According to SCP, any non-SC V6 and 4.6L V8 used 5/8"-wide rear end links, while all Super Coupes and 5.0L V8 cars used 3/4"-wide end links. However, Moog only offers a single one-size-fits-all end link for 1989-1997 cars (linked above), with no dimensions given. Not sure who is right here / how this all works.

Rear Sway Bar
The stock rear bars are relatively small, though this varies depending on the year and package. Addco makes a wide variety of increased-size sway bars for our cars, front and back, but Addco themselves only offers the 1 1/4" for the rear on their own website. SCP still offers that one, plus the Addco 1 1/8" and 1 3/8" versions. General consensus is that you don't want to go more than 1 1/4" for the rear sway bar unless you're also increasing the size of the front bar, and even then, a bigger sway bar is going to fight against the nature of your independent suspension. See this thread for an excellent overview of the Addco offerings and the best fits for their user cases:



So, ignoring generic nuts, bolts, washers etc as any mechanic will have those, am I missing anything that I should be getting for a rear suspension rebuild? (I already have newish rear shocks.) Are there any better options than what I've listed in terms of quality, or something odd I may be overlooking? Is anything outright wrong? If it matters, I'm looking at a daily driver rather than a racing machine.

Thanks as always for your time.
 
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I’m a staunch the spring perch isn’t necessary believer, never ran them in my Mark LCAs

The SCP tubular UCA is a pointless bling item at best, there’s no reason whatsoever the stock ones need upgrading, they have one job and one job only and that is to keep the spindle upright, all other loads go through the lower control arm.
 
I beg to differ on that one, if you are running a lowered car the ucas from scp have better camber adjustment. Stock arms I always had negative camber, even adjusted all the way out. I run mine about halfway out and have a little positive camber so everything flattens out when I get on it. They also help with wheel hop.

As far as the list goes, some of those additional bushings you had are unnecessary if getting bushings from scp. He has the mark viii lca bushings, then spindle bushings in poly or uhmw, if you get the ucas then all bushings are covered. I think I've got everything except the subframe bushings, but that's because unfortunately my car is so rusty that if I try to remove the bolts they will just break. End links and sway bar bushings are a great idea obviously as well, other than that you have the toe compensators to replace or bypass with spacers if running the uhmw bushings

20240114_193249.jpg20240521_182622.jpg20240521_182723.jpg

I'm also running the poly spring cups, poly pinion bushings, pinion support brace, poly rear diff mount with Ford Racing reinforced diff cover, dss level 6 axles. I was tired of breaking stuff so I tried to build everything as strong as possible. The combination of all that plus 285s is so smooth, no wheel hop and little wheel spin, that's with around 500hp and 500tq.
 
As far as the list goes, some of those additional bushings you had are unnecessary if getting bushings from scp. He has the mark viii lca bushings, then spindle bushings in poly or uhmw, if you get the ucas then all bushings are covered. I think I've got everything except the subframe bushings, but that's because unfortunately my car is so rusty that if I try to remove the bolts they will just break. End links and sway bar bushings are a great idea obviously as well, other than that you have the toe compensators to replace or bypass with spacers if running the uhmw bushings

Sorry, could you specify which entries in the list I should delete (presuming I want to go with the SCP bushings and UCAs)? I've made some edits so it might be right now, but I'd like to be sure.
 
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Sorry, could you specify which entries in the list I should delete (presuming I want to go with the SCP bushings and UCAs)?
I would use as many parts off this site as possible:https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products/ford_thunderbird_1996
The spring centering piece can be made for $20 each, from a 3"dia aluminum disk3"tall. Drill a hole in the center, bolt it in,buy 2 spring isolators, one top one bottom of the spring. Use the money you save to buy a new set of koni shocks for the rear.(02 mustang vert with irs)
The delrin bushings are only $20 more than the guy that designed them.
 
Ouch! That price hurts. I'll be going with these.

That's way better. At the same time, whenever I see a price differential like that, I'm inclined to think the cheap one is made of saltwater taffy. But I'll do some digging.

I would use as many parts off this site as possible:https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products/ford_thunderbird_1996
The spring centering piece can be made for $20 each, from a 3"dia aluminum disk3"tall. Drill a hole in the center, bolt it in,buy 2 spring isolators, one top one bottom of the spring. Use the money you save to buy a new set of koni shocks for the rear.(02 mustang vert with irs)
The delrin bushings are only $20 more than the guy that designed them.

I did that: you'll see all the links up top are from that site (saw them recommended over at TCCOA; I used the 97 landing page instead of the 96, but it looks at a glance to be the same parts). My issue is that, because people use different names for the same part, and because the switching to Mark VIII parts and mixing in of Mustang parts clouds the issue, I'm not clear on what if any overlap I have in my list in my first post. AdamG seemed to be implying that I could cut certain entries, but I don't know what as I'm new to all this.

I made some trims to the list based on further research, so hopefully I have it right now (and I listed out the bushings in a new table at the start).
 
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That's way better. At the same time, whenever I see a price differential like that, I'm inclined to think the cheap one is made of saltwater taffy. But I'll do some digging.
That's my tendency as well. But I ordered a set of Dorman Premium lower control arms from CARiD and they substituted an SKP for one of them and it was absolutely identical, just considerably cheaper.
 
Why not just get the Moog part from RockAuto? Regular price is $25 and they have some on closeout for $16.

I probably will. With this sort of post I'm just looking to list what I need so that I can get feedback on whether or not it's right, rather than find the listing with the best price. In this case I went through the same website for everything to keep things quick. But it's accuracy that's my main concern: I'm not sure what I have listed is right.
 
I used one of the leftover urethane bushings for the mark kit;(they also fit the cobra irs) and cut it down for the stock rear swaybar link.
From Energy suspension and prothane, you want The lca bushings, the knuckle bushings, The diff bushings, the spring isolators, and the trans support. You want new toe links.
 
I used one of the leftover urethane bushings for the mark kit;(they also fit the cobra irs) and cut it down for the stock rear swaybar link.
From Energy suspension and prothane, you want The lca bushings, the knuckle bushings, The diff bushings, the spring isolators, and the trans support. You want new toe links.

What is "the trans support"?
 
There’s a bracket bolted to the frame rails that supports the trans. Bushings at each mounting point and the trans mount in the center.
 
I just came across this long-ago post from MN12 Performance with regards to the rear sway bar here:

"SC and sport-equipped cars have a larger 3/4" endlink bushing all others used a smaller 5/8"."

I'm not having any luck matching these figures up to part listings. Does anyone have an example of parts for these two figures?
 
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I just came across this long-ago post from MN12 Performance:

"SC and sport-equipped cars have a larger 3/4" endlink bushing all others used a smaller 5/8"."

I'm not having any luck matching these figures up to part listings. Does anyone have an example of parts for these two figures?

Maybe in bushing height? SC and sport springs tend to sit a little bit higher than LX springs so they may have used longer bushings to compensate….but that is literally the first I’ve heard that and that’s pure speculation. Definitely not true if referring to bushing diameter.
 
The original Sport and sc front lca's had a larger bushing, but those went away back in the 90's.
 
Digging around some more I found these links, which are the only items that are related and have the dimensions the MN12 post mentions:


The site says that the 5/8-inch-wide rear end links "were used in all the regular V6 (non SC) and the 4.6L SOHC cars" and the 3/4-inch-wide ones were "used in all the SC V6 and the 5.0L cars".

So lacking any other info I'm assuming that's what MN12 was referring to back in the day. With SCP taking over MN12's old business it makes sense that their offerings and dimensions would match up.
 
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Ohh! I was thinking the bushings in question were the lower ones that attach to the LCA. The upper makes much more sense
 
Ohh! I was thinking the bushings in question were the lower ones that attach to the LCA. The upper makes much more sense

The interesting part is where Moog only offers a one-size-fits-all rear end link for all 1989-1997 Birds. I'm not sure how to reconcile that with the MN12/SCP info. Especially since I've already ordered the Moog part...
 
The interesting part is where Moog only offers a one-size-fits-all rear end link for all 1989-1997 Birds. I'm not sure how to reconcile that with the MN12/SCP info. Especially since I've already ordered the Moog part...

Most likely it’s just the lower bushing, the upper has always been something you get as an end link assembly if the bushing goes bad
 
I'm going to be adding the Mark VIII arms to a Bird, with the help of a friend. However, I just have the arms: no related bolts or anything. Does anyone know what the precise bolts are that I'll need to properly mount these? I'd like to save as many trips to the hardware store while working as possible.
 
The lower bolts are the specific ones that you should have originals. They are a button head design with a torx head. I had thought about trying socket head bolts with a washer, but found a set of stock bolts. There's not much room for the axles, which is why you should use stock.
 
The lower bolts are the specific ones that you should have originals. They are a button head design with a torx head. I had thought about trying socket head bolts with a washer, but found a set of stock bolts. There's not much room for the axles, which is why you should use stock.

I'm assuming that's this guy?

Mark VIII LCA Bolt 2.jpg
 
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I was trying to find my thread with the pix from when I did the mark arms on lazarus; then I remembered that it was a garage thread, which were all lost by one set of idiots that owned the old site. I need to dig up the pix, and repost . Oscar's thread is gone too, it seems. I sent him the uca's and had bracing welded in, from the old article. I made spring centering pieces, from aluminum, and oscar and I put zerk fittings into the arms. I have a 2nd grease gun with silicone grease for those.
Adjustable koni shocks from a mustang vert are still available.
 
There's other listings I've found, and I'm not sure how essential / replaceable they are:

There's Mark VIII LCA Bolt 1.png
which is apparently the "rear shock lower control arm bolt".

And this:
Mark VIII LCA Bolt 3.png
apparently the "lower control arm hex bolt".

Can anyone tell me how many I need, if they're replaceable, and if so by what? I gather a lot of people have done this swap.
 
The lower bolts are the specific ones that you should have originals. They are a button head design with a torx head. I had thought about trying socket head bolts with a washer, but found a set of stock bolts. There's not much room for the axles, which is why you should use stock.

I have mine installed backwards where the nut is on the axle side(otherwise you need to remove the axle but every time you take the spindles off, to hell with that). It’s tight but they clear. It’s still difficult if the right size bolt, there’s no readily available hardware store bolt that’s the right length and even looking for them online for the correct length/diameter the only ones coming up were full thread
 
I have mine installed backwards where the nut is on the axle side(otherwise you need to remove the axle but every time you take the spindles off, to hell with that). It’s tight but they clear. It’s still difficult if the right size bolt, there’s no readily available hardware store bolt that’s the right length and even looking for them online for the correct length/diameter the only ones coming up were full thread
IIRC one side was pretty close on mine. Could be the aftermarket axles too?
 

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