Source for main bearing cap bolts and rod cap bolts

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GRWeldon

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First off, I'm working on my 95 4.6. Apparently I de-torqued all my main bearing caps in preparation for looking at all the bearings. I only needed to pull one to see that they were perfect. Now I have to reinstall but I learned that they are Torque To Yield screws and I can't seem to find any except from the dealer and they are almost $20 each, which I'm certainly not willing to pay. Anybody know of another source for these? I can't even find a part number and I've already ordered (4) each that weren't correct. Seems like I can find ARP stuff all over the place but I really wanted screws, not studs...

Also, I guess I did the same to the rod cap bolts and need a set of them as well.

I know the 95 was an early 4.6 and improvements have been made to the engine over time, but main and rod cap bolts? Seems like they would be the same.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Or maybe I should rephrase the question...

Where do the folks on this forum get TTY hardware when they rebuild their engines. I'm building stock...don't really need high performance but if that's all I can get I suppose I don't have a choice.

I DID see that Rockauto has reconditions rods that come with screws. Buying a whole set of rods with bolts would be cheaper than buying just a set of ARP bolts!
 
Anything for 96+ Romeo built 4.6s use the same hardware as 91-95, you’ll just have two extra side bolts since the goth main inset crossbolted like later years.

Contrary to popular belief TTY bolts aren’t truly one time use, if you wanted to reassemble with what you got you absolutely can, it takes a few cycles before they become brittle.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Anything for 96+ Romeo built 4.6s use the same hardware as 91-95, you’ll just have two extra side bolts since the goth main inset crossbolted like later years.

Contrary to popular belief TTY bolts aren’t truly one time use, if you wanted to reassemble with what you got you absolutely can, it takes a few cycles before they become brittle.
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I reused rod cap bolts on the only 4.6 I have previously built. It failed 33K miles after rebuild because a rod cap came off.

I'd like to see something supporting your statement from a reliable source.

In fact, torque to yield means the bolt has been stretched to its deformation point and will never return to its original length, meaning it will never again provide the designed clamping force.
 
GRWeldon said:
I reused rod cap bolts on the only 4.6 I have previously built. It failed 33K miles after rebuild because a rod cap came off.

I'd like to see something supporting your statement from a reliable source.

In fact, torque to yield means the bolt has been stretched to its deformation point and will never return to its original length, meaning it will never again provide the designed clamping force.
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I got this info from Nick at modularheadshop years ago who discussed it with a Ford engineer. It’s searchable info so don’t take my word for it, but I’ve not had any issues rolling the dice following the proper procedure.
 
KevinVarnes said:
www.modmaxracing.com

ModMax OEM Replacement Main Bolt Kit 4.6 5.4 Cast Iron 2 Bolt Blocks

ModMax proudly offers the best 4.6 , 5.0 , & 5.4 Ford Modular engine parts in the world. From cranks, stroker kits, rods, and pistons to valvetrain and more!
www.modmaxracing.com

I thought in your other post you were only looking for one con rod bolt set?
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Yeah, I have only removed one rod cap. Like an idiot, I loosened all the main cap bolts figuring I would need to check all the bearings.

At this point if I'm going to have to pop for new main bolts I might as well get rod bolts as well and remove everything for inspection and cleaning. Costs are creeping up. I'm going to sell this one I think but I want to know it isn't going to blow up a thousand miles after it leaves. I just don't do business like that. I really screwed up loosening the bolts. Chalk it up to inexperience. I've only rebuilt one 4.6 and it was about 20 years ago.

Still undecided what I will do. I've got engine parts clogging my workspace and a car taking up space on my lift. Junkyard engines are a crapshoot and I'm really not physically able to pull one in a yard. Rather deal with known quantities at this point.
 
Don’t do ARP studs unless you intend to get the block line bored
 
Fordpartsgiant.com has them.
I did same thing on an '04 3v 5.4. Theoretically you re-torque to specified torque just don't turn the extra 90 degrees as they are already stretched. The bolt when torqued gets into the max strain area which is beyond the elastic limit meaning it will not relax to same length as original again. Retorquing will get you close to the max strain, but if the stretch is too much you get a narrowed section meaning your clamp load is reduced. I wouldn't chance it. It sux sometimes to do the right thing. Mine was in my son's truck. Trust me he tried to blow it up and he failed biggly!😁
Screenshot_20241109-170710_Brave.jpg
 
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Yeah, I saw that ad among the very few. I ended up ordering a min. quantity of 4 (only need 2) from Fordpartsgiant.com plus a set of main bolts from modmaxracing.com. between the two places I spent just at $150 including shipping. Really didn't want to do that on a 95 but as you say, sometimes you have to bite the bullet. It sucks.
 
KevinVarnes said:
www.modmaxracing.com

ModMax OEM Replacement Main Bolt Kit 4.6 5.4 Cast Iron 2 Bolt Blocks

ModMax proudly offers the best 4.6 , 5.0 , & 5.4 Ford Modular engine parts in the world. From cranks, stroker kits, rods, and pistons to valvetrain and more!
www.modmaxracing.com

I thought in your other post you were only looking for one con rod bolt set?
Click to expand...
I do only need one conrod set. I decided not to pull the pistons. Great find on the main bolt set. I hadn't seen them. I ordered them yesterday.
 
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