SVO blower HELP!

[Ericv8thunderbird]

I’m having an issue with my Ford Racing / SVO supercharger, it’s only building about 1lb of boost. The other day I got on it and the belt completely slipped off, it has the stock pulley. I’ve tried the finger over the actuator while pulling the rod back, and it holds perfectly fine. I’m thinking it maybe vac related? It does whistle just a little bit at idle but not revving it. Does anyone happen to have a pic on how the vac line is routed on their boost actuator? (by pass valve)

 

[dDUBb]

Bypass actuator vacuum line should be routed to the fitting on the manifold.

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

Bypass actuator vacuum line should be routed to the fitting on the manifold.

Thats what I thought, it’s currently on a tee with the FPR. (Marked in yellow)
So, it should be moved to where my red line is?

 

[bowez]

On my SC the by pass is plumbed to the Pleum right behind the TB. So I'd say yes need to go to the RED line (though I'm not familiar with the SVO).

Plumbed to the FPR its seeing boost which will force it to bypass. Vacuum 0 vaccum its what open the by pass.

 

[dDUBb]

Both of those fittings should serve the same function, so it wouldn't matter which one you use. Some of the installation guides I've seen for the SVO say to use the port on the manifold ( yellow ) but that's more so to use the factory vacuum hoses on this SC assembly.

 

[dDUBb]

Have you verified the actuator linkage moves if you rev the engine ? The bypass valve can get stuck sometimes and if it's not closing you will bleed boost pressure.

 

[Wile E. Coyote]

Thats what I thought, it’s currently on a tee with the FPR. (Marked in yellow)
So, it should be moved to where my red line is?

View attachment 11416

Mine is routed the yellow way and makes 8psi when the belt isn't slipping, so I think it's routed properly.

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

Have you verified the actuator linkage moves if you rev the engine ? The bypass valve can get stuck sometimes and if it's not closing you will bleed boost pressure.

I remember seeing it move, but I’ll have to double check that.

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

Mine is routed the yellow way and makes 8psi when the belt isn't slipping, so I think it's routed properly.

On a stock pulley?

 

[Wile E. Coyote]

Stock pulley, long tubes, 75mm TB and 90mm maf.

 

[dDUBb]

Stock pulley, long tubes, 75mm TB and 90mm maf.

None of these things really contribute to an increase in manifold pressure - if anything, the long tubes should decrease pressure by improving flow through the heads / less restriction.

 

[Wile E. Coyote]

None of these things really contribute to an increase in manifold pressure - if anything, the long tubes should decrease pressure by improving flow through the heads / less restriction.

Exhaust is true. But it's dyno proven to gain a pound or two of boost with a larger TB. So I included it. Seen it and it's on a lot of popular dyno/engine channels on YT.

 

[dDUBb]

Sounds like your throttle body flows better than your long tubes.

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

Have you verified the actuator linkage moves if you rev the engine ? The bypass valve can get stuck sometimes and if it's not closing you will bleed boost pressure.

Just checked the linkage and it does move when rev it.

 

[dDUBb]

Did you solve your belt issue ?

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

Did you solve your belt issue ?

I did not, I didn’t get to drive it, I’m using the belt that was suggested, and it sits on there pretty tight.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Did you get the 111” ?

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

Did you get the 111” ?

You might be on to something!

It’s a Dayco 5061130. When I look up the specs it’s a 113” belt.

Should I be using a 111” on a stock pulley?
Would you happen to have the part number?

 

[AdamG]

Should be a 5061110.

 

[Wile E. Coyote]

My first belt was a 113, it slipped like hell.

Now I'm running a Goodyear belt, 111inch. Finally stopped slipping, left a nice 11 leaving work.

1061110. $32 on Amazon. When I got it

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

My first belt was a 113, it slipped like hell.

Now I'm running a Goodyear belt, 111inch. Finally stopped slipping, left a nice 11 leaving work.

1061110. $32 on Amazon. When I got it

Just ordered that, hopefully this solves the low / no boost issue.

 

[Wile E. Coyote]

So it doesn't take you as long as it took me, route it over everything except the smooth idler over the tensioner. Max the tensioner and then slip it on that idler.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

You might be on to something!

It’s a Dayco 5061130. When I look up the specs it’s a 113” belt.

Should I be using a 111” on a stock pulley?
Would you happen to have the part number?

Yes. Use a 111”.

Thanks to @AdamG and @Wile E. Coyote for the info.

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

New belt installed, and doubled checked for vacuum leaks, still not making boost. I’m loosing my patience!!

 

[dDUBb]

I seem to remember something about a rebuild and the snout being on backwards ?? Just throwing an idea out there ..

If it's not your bypass valve .. and the pulley spins the rotors .. and no vacuum leaks ..

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

I seem to remember something about a rebuild and the snout being on backwards ?? Just throwing an idea out there ..

If it's not your bypass valve .. and the pulley spins the rotors .. and no vacuum leaks ..

I sent it back to Stegmeier to correct their screw up.
What’s irritating is my tuner never fully turned off all the auto trans features after I swapped in the manual, so the car barley runs and makes it hard to drive it.

 

[dDUBb]

Maybe try pulling the throttle body off and spin the SC pulley by hand and cover the TB opening with your other hand; if that makes sense.

 

[XR7-4.6]

What’s irritating is my tuner never fully turned off all the auto trans features after I swapped in the manual, so the car barley runs and makes it hard to drive it.

It might be more than the auto trans switches, there’s drastic changes to Idle and dashpot tables when I compared the Tbird value files to the 96-98 manual GT file I have. I bet you your tuner also missed the max spark at low load table. That needs to be maxed out after a manual swap otherwise it locks timing at 15 degrees off idle, even the best of them miss that from manual swaps.

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

It might be more than the auto trans switches, there’s drastic changes to Idle and dashpot tables when I compared the Tbird value files to the 96-98 manual GT file I have. I bet you your tuner also missed the max spark at low load table. That needs to me maxed out after a manual swap otherwise it locks timing at 15 degrees off idle, even the best of them miss that from manual swaps.

I had mentioned to him about the timing, and he said “thats not correct regarding the timing tables”

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I had mentioned to him about the timing, and he said “thats not correct regarding the timing tables”

Call RobertP during business hours on Monday or sometime next week and run it by him. His shop # is 910 - 947 - 7044.

If he can’t help nobody can.