The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

Jae 'Bird said:
My stupid question today, are the motor mounts hard to do on the 3.8? can i do them with just jacking up the engine a bit? Also, the Haynes manual says to jack up the engine from the oil pan, is this ok? I've heard from the lubetube that you should never do that. Thanks
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I replaced the engine mounts on the 3.8SC in my Cougar in the car and just using a jack (with a block of wood) under the oil pan. As mentioned, the pan is plenty strong to handle it. If I can do it in a SC engine, the the n/a 3.8 should be quite doable. I did mine over 20 years ago, so details are a little foggy. I'm pretty sure I removed the mount with the bracket from the engine and snaked it out and disassembled and reassembled the mount on the bench before reinstalling it into the car. I seem to recall having to bend the shield for the knock sensor on the side of the block a bit for extra clearance. Not sure if your car has the same thing or not.
 
Anyone else here have a D8 paint code bird? Arctic Green Metallic. I am trying to find some touch up paint online but all the pics of that color seem wayyy to green compared to my car. In my eyes my car is a light blue. I am not trying to buy the wrong paint. Any specific websites you like to use for getting paint?
 
GRWeldon said:
Stupid question.... How do I know what my final drive ratio is?
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Look at the door tag under axle and cross reference it with this chart

GEARS AND AXLES

Gears will increase acceleration but decrease top speed and fuel economy. Final drive gear ratio is associated with the differential in your car. The internal combustion engine does not make enough torque to move a car (at any kind of speed) so gearing is used to multiply torque output in...
forum.birdcats.com forum.birdcats.com

Sometimes the differential itself has a steel tag denoting ratio as well
 
Shlamden said:
Anyone else here have a D8 paint code bird? Arctic Green Metallic. I am trying to find some touch up paint online but all the pics of that color seem wayyy to green compared to my car. In my eyes my car is a light blue. I am not trying to buy the wrong paint. Any specific websites you like to use for getting paint?
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Paintscratch.com will mix up touch-up paint based on your paint code.
 
What was the size of Pex tubing for the door strikers? 1/2"?
 
You know if it's taking out the plastic, the pins are waste, right?
IIRC, it was 1/2"
 
I got you, lol. Me personally, I buy one from dorman; the plastic is more durable, and the striker is a bitch to dismantle. But a foot of pex is cheaper than the 12 buck dorman part.

Man, Lazarus was that shiny when I got it in 99. Beautiful!
 
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Yes, the pins are fresh. I already have the strikers apart and was thinking of they held up as well, I may have some pex around here. Just didn't have the car handy to test fit the pex. I think you may be correct that a new striker may have a better life expectancy
 
I have a really stupid question: is there a 3.9l hemi charger, or did my dumb ass misread a 392 fender emblem?
 
My great nephew bought a 392 hemi charger, then. It sounds great :) White like your Cougar. Bought with his cash from the mustang he wrecked. He found a flock of deer, over the top of a hill, after dark. Got like 15k from that, and he started with a rusted out pos truck he paid 1000 for, and traded his way up. :) He learned to weld in hs, and fixed the truck. He never gave more than 500 as boot money in a trade. I'm impressed with him; he's driven, like his grandpa.
 
Grog6 said:
My great nephew bought a 392 hemi charger, then. It sounds great :) White like your Cougar. Bought with his cash from the mustang he wrecked. He found a flock of deer, over the top of a hill, after dark. Got like 15k from that, and he started with a rusted out pos truck he paid 1000 for, and traded his way up. :) He learned to weld in hs, and fixed the truck. He never gave more than 500 as boot money in a trade. I'm impressed with him; he's driven, like his grandpa.
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Nice, that’s pretty much the only modern car that has any appeal for me these days
 
I told him to buy the code for my prp, and a tuner for mopar, and we'd tune it. I have a loose wideband, until I get the red cougar running.
 
He's the one I told, "you drive like your grandma!" He didn't understand,that's a compliment. She taught me t do a rockford, lol. There aren't any slow drivers in our family; hooning is a family tradition, lol. My mom wasn't happy unless the tires were making noise in turns. :)
 
I can not find the good write up on how to/what needs to be done for a 2002 transmission to go in older car!!?? I have read it more than once but now cannot find it on either site. Can anyone provide a link please?:facepalm:The one about repining the connector and all that goodness.
 
Rebuild the 2002 with all new seals, add the one piece direct shaftseals, a "super-tuff" plate, and it's j-modded. A trans built like that won't fail, like the older ones.
 
MadMikeyL said:
In short, leave it alone!
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Yeah, about that...

I have this problem. When I see a screw, bolt, or nut, I have this urge to unscrew, unbolt, or...well, maybe not unnut. My excuse: I wanted to very thoroughly clean the shroud.

Unfortunately, they used some very permanent thread locker. I didn't even use much force, and bolt #1 separated. I didn't touch bolt #2 at all after that.

Given how tight #1 was, #2 alone probably will hold the plate in place just fine. Theoretically it could rotate around the one remaining bolt, but it doesn't budge at all.

But now I'm paranoid about a metal plate being sucked into my engine...
 
The shroud is never dirty enough to warrant cleaning nor would it help anything, the sensor wires sometimes get dirty especially when using oiled air filters, however you should remove the sensor element from the housing to clean them, not the plate in the sensor
 
If you're looking for a new housing .. they should be same between late models - the early style are different.
 
Get a 2002 GTMAF, and a tune, and say fuckit.
 
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