The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

I have a non-mn12 question. My sis's flex ac blower died, Think it's the resistor module?
 
Grog6 said:
I have a non-mn12 question. My sis's flex ac blower died, Think it's the resistor module?
Click to expand...

If it has automatic climate control it wouldn't have a resistor but a PWM module like our SATC systems use.

First thing's first though... check the fuse
 
Good point, but I realize it's not a resistor, but a deal like ours. A simple resistor wouldn't cost as much, lol.
 
So how in the world do you open up the cut in the Supercoupe Performance front sway bar bushings wide enough to install over the bar? I know this has to be covered somewhere in this site, but I'll be damned if I can find it...
 
When I put my new front bushings on the Lincoln a few weeks ago, they were pretty stiff. I couldn't open them up with my bare hands. I used the open end of 1" wrench and jammed it in there to hold it open for a few minutes, after which it stayed C-shaped long enough for me to squish it onto the side of the bar and slide it into place.
 
Also, lube! dielectric grease is basically the equivalent of the stuff Prothane/energy suspension sells for their poly bushings
 
What I ended up doing was heating them up in water about 180 degrees then, using a wooden wedge that I cut on my bandsaw, I pried the slit open enough that I could get that one end on the bar, then worked the rest on. It was NOT an easy process. I'm also wondering if these poly bushings are prone to squeaking? I had a squeak/rattle on my drivers side front before I removed the subframe. I examined and tightened up all the fasteners and torqued them down. After reinstalling the subframe, then noise is now MUCH WORSE! All the suspension parts are new, upper and lower LCAs, inner/outer tie rod ends, endlinks and now, sway bar bushings. The only thing that hasn't been replaced are the shocks/shock mounts. It does need shocks, just can't decide on what I want to buy for the money I want to spend. I supose I'll have to replace shock mounts too, that doesn't seem like it will be much fun either...
 
89 TBIRD said:
Yeah they squeak unless they're well lubed.
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Thanks. Greeeaaattt. I put zero lube on them even though I have a full tube of silicone grease. There were no instructions in the box and I looked on the site. Couldn't find any there either. Don't know what to do now. Damn sure ain't taking them out... Did it while the subframe was out. Now it's in.
 
Grog6 said:
Iput zerk fittings on the poly stuff I did on the mark arms on Lazarus.
Click to expand...
When I redo mine sometime this year I'm getting these, and lots of silicone grease.

9.5162 | Universal Sway Bar Bushings - 27mm (1.06 inch)

Energy Suspension universal sway bar bushings in 27mm (1.06 inch). Made from premium polyurethane! Lasts much longer than OEM rubber bushings! Ships out now! 9.5162
www.energysuspensionparts.com www.energysuspensionparts.com

9.5161 | Universal - Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - 25mm

Energy Suspension universal sway bar bushings in 25 mm. Made from premium polyurethane! Greaseable with a straight zerk! In stock now! Ships out now! 9.5161
www.energysuspensionparts.com www.energysuspensionparts.com
 
NAPA's copper grease works well too. Used that with the Powerflex bushings on my old E46. Zero noise but you've got to cake it on there.
 
All the poly stuff I bought came with lube. After I added zerk fittings, I bought another smaller grease gun for silicone dielectric grease. Regular grease is bad for the poly.
 
Would anyone know a source for the rear reflector panel nuts? They are an acorn nut cover over a sheet metal trim nut. Only suitable idea I have found to replace is nylon acorn nuts, but they likely aren't deep enough, so if have to run a regular nut on first.
 
Zep5.0 said:
Would anyone know a source for the rear reflector panel nuts? They are an acorn nut cover over a sheet metal trim nut. Only suitable idea I have found to replace is nylon acorn nuts, but they likely aren't deep enough, so if have to run a regular nut on first.
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Are these the same for the T-Bird panels also?

Joe

IMG_7545.jpegIMG_7544.jpeg
 
Rodeo Joe said:
Man, I'm glad I saved a lot of the the PMs from TSTSNBN! ;)

N620376S36, Green Sales is showing 19 in stock right now. I bought some years ago when mine were looking a little tarnished!

Joe
Click to expand...
Thank you!!!
 
Grog6 said:
All the poly stuff I bought came with lube. After I added zerk fittings, I bought another smaller grease gun for silicone dielectric grease. Regular grease is bad for the poly.
Click to expand...
So does the bushing itself have a hole in it so grease can get to the bar or does the grease just get between the housing and the bushing? If the latter, then I can probably remove the housing while it's in the car and add grease. Otherwise, I suppose I'm screwed unless I drop the subframe again. It wasn't a terribly bad job on a lift but I really don't want to do it again...
 
Rodeo Joe said:
Man, I'm glad I saved a lot of the the PMs from TSTSNBN! ;)

N620376S36, Green Sales is showing 19 in stock right now. I bought some years ago when mine were looking a little tarnished!

Joe
Click to expand...

Related question in terms of part numbers. I don't have a service manual for a Super Coupe or an XR7, can anyone tell me what the part numbers are for the fold down rear seat and the brackets and carpet extensions that go with them? I know everything is discontinued but I'd still like to know what those part numbers are, if they even have any, without having to buy a whole service manual.

Actually a scan of whatever pages describe that rear seat would be even better, if the part numbers are listed.
 
Derphound01 said:
NAPA's copper grease works well too. Used that with the Powerflex bushings on my old E46. Zero noise but you've got to cake it on there.
Click to expand...
I use copper grease on dissimilar metals, like aluminum to steel. I use it on my spark plugs to. Never had a frozen nut or bolt.
 
Zep5.0 said:
Would anyone know a source for the rear reflector panel nuts? They are an acorn nut cover over a sheet metal trim nut. Only suitable idea I have found to replace is nylon acorn nuts, but they likely aren't deep enough, so if have to run a regular nut on first.
Click to expand...
Junk yard! Just about any Ford around that year should have them.
 
GRWeldon said:
So does the bushing itself have a hole in it so grease can get to the bar or does the grease just get between the housing and the bushing? If the latter, then I can probably remove the housing while it's in the car and add grease. Otherwise, I suppose I'm screwed unless I drop the subframe again. It wasn't a terribly bad job on a lift but I really don't want to do it again...
Click to expand...
I drilled thru the outer part of the control arm, thru the bushing, down to the level of the center steel pieces. With the zerk fitting in, it squirts grease out both ends. ~1/4 hole.
 
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