The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

Jae 'Bird said:
I think a manual 3.8 would be pretty cool
Click to expand...

Would it though? I mean apart from the rarity?

I'm biased of course, but I think the 3.8 NA works great with a torque converter. That combination provides excellent low-speed getup. Taking off from a standstill, the engine reaches its peak torque (around 2,700 I think?) very quickly.

Having grown up with underpowered manual cars, I just think that a manual would make this engine feel weaker. Unless the ratios are really short.
 
That is a fair point. I would like to figure out how to put in a tachometer so that I can actually see what my engine is doing. I wonder how hard that would be :unsure: maybe thats the project I should do next
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Would it though? I mean apart from the rarity?

I'm biased of course, but I think the 3.8 NA works great with a torque converter. That combination provides excellent low-speed getup. Taking off from a standstill, the engine reaches its peak torque (around 2,700 I think?) very quickly.

Having grown up with underpowered manual cars, I just think that a manual would make this engine feel weaker. Unless the ratios are really short.
Click to expand...

I strongly disagree. Engagement is the key, even if the vehicle is weaker or slower being able to articulate your inputs at a whim makes the car more fun to DRIVE. It’s the same thing with EVs; instant torque an ICE vehicle can’t even dream of but is it actually fun once you’re accustomed to it? Meh. Same with manual vs automatics, you’re uniquely attentive, your inputs matter to performance or efficiency, you get unique audible/physical feedback. Automatics like EVs are same old same old, manuals are an adventure.

I’d return my car to totally stock in every single other way but I’ll never give up the 5 speed unless I lost a leg.
 
Well, I had no intention to open the ultimate car group can of worms: manual vs. automatic.

Of course I'm not arguing the aspect of engagement. And with sufficiently short ratios, I could even be convinced that the V6 would be livelier with a manual.

But I stand by my opinion. A manual goes with certain engines better than with others. And this V6 just doesn't strike me as the best candidate.
 
A 5 speed would definitely make a 3.8 feel more responsive. You have one more gear than the automatic so it will be easier to keep it in its power range. Plus that third definitely makes it a lot more fun to drive, probably the best mod I did to mine...
 
Getting the tune right made me happy with the 4r70w. It took far longer than the rest of the tune. There's a post with the settings here somewhere; it shifts like a manual, shifting up, then shifting down with engine braking.
 
I'm glad others do think that a manual 3.8 would be cool, tbh I also totally forgot that I would actually gain a gear going to manual. I do also find myself wanting to drive my auto like a manual, I articulate the throttle to get it to kinda do what I want, I find it quite fun. It would also be my first manual car (my dad would be able to teach me). If it ever happens, ill definitely document the process in detail. But I still am now really thinking about putting a tach in the car, where do you guys think the best spot would be? I could make a new post if we want to discuss more
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Well, I had no intention to open the ultimate car group can of worms: manual vs. automatic.

Of course I'm not arguing the aspect of engagement. And with sufficiently short ratios, I could even be convinced that the V6 would be livelier with a manual.

But I stand by my opinion. A manual goes with certain engines better than with others. And this V6 just doesn't strike me as the best candidate.
Click to expand...
I agree that I wouldn't do this mod, either. But, the M5R2 has low gears, especially the early ones, so it would help the acceleration a decent amount. Might even help mpg.
 
I did the M5R2 swap behind a 3.8NA for someone years ago. The 3.8NA is a 28oz imbalance and the SC is neutral balance, so you can’t just use the SC flywheel. I think I wound up getting a flywheel from summit that had the bolt-on weights, then used all the rest of the SC stuff.

The swap is not at all difficult with an M5R2. Everything is literally bolt-in. Hardest part is pulling the dash to install the clutch pedal. You do have to drill the holes in the firewall, but it already has dimples where you have to drill. As far as the performance, an M5R2 is a huge improvement! On the highway, it still felt about the same as with the auto, but having that steeper 1st and 2nd gear made a night and day difference accelerating from a stop and driving around town.
 
How’s the IAC work? Is it just open at cold? And it’s binary correct, full open or full closed.

One the engine is warm and sitting at a stop for example, will the IAC open?
 
In my 96, it's a variable opening solenoid. when it fails, you get nothing, if it gets sticky, it hangs open to varying amounts.
 
Op, I don't think your eec will run a later gage set, but I thought the sc cars had tachs.
That's a question for Mikey or Matt. :)
A aftermarket tach is easy, mounting it is the hardest part. A wire to a coil input is all you need to feed it.
 
Last edited:
Kidd-7 said:
How’s the IAC work? Is it just open at cold? And it’s binary correct, full open or full closed.

One the engine is warm and sitting at a stop for example, will the IAC open?
Click to expand...

It's normally closed. It's PWM variable. The PCM usually keeps it open slightly for idle control and (when driving) dashpot to smooth out engine response over abrupt throttle changes.
 
My Fusion was the first non-MT car I ever owned. I don't hate it, but at some point I'll be rowing my own in my DD again.
 
Grog6 said:
I drove subaru 5 speeds for years in the 80's, and an auto would have sucked. A manual would really make it move!
Click to expand...
My last standard was an 80 mustang with 4 cyl / 4 speed. I hated being stuck in traffic - clutch and go / STOP... clutch-n-go / STOP!!! Oh wait, I had a F250 with a 4 speed. That was different. 460 engine, 4x4... it was a beast in low 4. But driving in traffic sucked.
 
How much should a complete PI engine go for?

I'm window shopping on Marketplace and OfferUp and I'm finding prices all over the place from $400 - $3,000. What would be a fair price for a PI engine?
 
CDsDontBurn said:
How much should a complete PI engine go for?

I'm window shopping on Marketplace and OfferUp and I'm finding prices all over the place from $400 - $3,000. What would be a fair price for a PI engine?
Click to expand...

$400 would be fair, most I’d ever pay for one would be maybe $800 but only if it’s from an Explorer, they’re way too dime a dozen to spend any more than $1,000 on unless it’s fresh.

But why? Unless there’s something gravely wrong with your stock 97 motor there’s no point swapping it unless you are going to get the lighter explorer one. Npi heads with PI cams and (real) PI intake make just as much power as a stock PI engine, and the npi shortblock with PI heads, cams and intake will make MORE power than a stock PI engine because of the extra compression.
 
I haven’t priced one out in a while, but they made millions of them, and they hardly ever go bad, so given massive supply and minimal demand, they should be dirt cheap.
 
I got 550k miles out of Lazarus'96 engine, and I did the pi intake and cams in 2012. It was hooned every day since I got it in 1999. Do the intake and cams, and drive the wheels off it. I'd do a 4v engine swap before doing a pi engine swap.
You'll need to get your pi parts from a jy, tho. You need the intake,cams, valley pipe, and waterpump nipple off the pi.
 
Related to PI head swaps (in terms of compression), what is the best piston type to use in the 4.6 - forged, cast or hypereutectic? Our stock pistons are hypereutectic, yes? And, I assume, heat treated? I read different things, like hypereutectic are great but in a few places saying that they're more brittle than cast or forged, I was just curious if I were going to replace the pistons (compression change) I should still probably stick with hypererutictic, correct?

Not going to race it but want more power than it's got now, I don't want to change compression by swapping to PI heads or shaving the NPI heads I will use. I plan for a total build of a donor engine at some point, head porting/cam swap, I will go through everything so if it's all apart then swapping the pistons to reach the same compression as swapping on PI heads will be my solution.
 
Unless you are using a supercharger or nitrous, hypereutectic will be fine. Forged pistons are stronger and less brittle, but also heavier and more expensive, so not really worth it in most situations.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Back
Top